I bought my crd a couple months ago with 170,000 miles, and have noticed it losing coolant. I have red coolant in it, so it's really easy to see. When I run it wide open for a bit, it blows a few drops I believe out of the coolant reservoir cap (I replaced the cap shortly after I bought the car). I haven't added coolant in at least a month, so it isn't loosing much. The temperature gauge has never been above half, even going up a long hill in 80 degrees. The PO had a shop put in a new thermostat and thermostat gasket in December.

It also misses on occasion at idle.

The coolant hoses are firm when the engine is warmed up, and stay firm overnight. The 30 second test doesn't seem to build pressure in the coolant reservoir. When I pressure tested the coolant system, it held pressure, but I found a very small leak in the radiator.

I assume coolant isn't making it's way into the exhaust because it doesn't blow any white smoke, and again, I'm not loosing much.

I was hoping it was the egr cooler, but symptoms haven't changed any since I deleted the egr this week. At this point I'm assuming its the head gasket. Is there anything else it could be?

If it does end up being the head gaskets, given that the coolant its loosing is negligible, is there any harm in waiting say a year to replace the gaskets?

Not sure if this is at all relevant, but I'm still trying to nail down why it goes into limp mode after a few seconds at full throttle.

Thanks!

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2006 silver Liberty CRD, ECO tune, EGR delete, 3.5 in magnaflow muffler, 2.5" lift, 245/75/16

First I don't know what the red coolant is but unless its the Chrysler HOAT coolant meant for our CRD s or Zerex G-05 or equivalent it doesn't need to be in there. There shouldn't be any coolant coming out of a good radiator cap unless pressure in system is too high which shouldn't happen from a small head gasket leak or with no overheating. You mentioned a small radiator leak. Did you fix it( if not that could easily loose a small amount of coolant) ? The fan etc could blow leaked coolant anywhere. You also need to inspect the heater hose connections heater and the metal piece bolted to the passenger side valve cover which are both near the reservoir and the hose to the reservoir itself. Did you a vacuum test on the coolant system or just pressure test the Radiator ? You could remove glow plugs and see if coolant is present turning engine over with ASD relay removed to prevent starting etc. Remember there is also a hard to examine u shaped hose under the oil cooler.

I had a small Head Gasket Leak and ran mine for about 8,000 miles before fixing it at about 180,000 miles but it was only a few months, it can cause an erosion in the head surface and ironically a small leak may actually be more likely to cause it because of higher localized pressure.

The limp mode sounds like it may be loosing boost and that and the "missing" could be related to air in fuel or many other causes such as vacuum leak bad vacuum solenoid etc. If there are any codes posting them would be helpful. Also make sure and check the intercooler or boost hoses for cracks or loose clamps etc. You also might check the turbo actuator arm for full movement and do vacuum solenoid bypass.
I may not be available for a few days but I am sure others will help also and give their opinions.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Thanks for the insight!

The red coolant is extended life coolant often used in semi trucks.

No I haven't fixed the radiator yet, but since when I find coolant its usually on the coolant reservoir itself, I assume it's coming from there. The coolant system is definitely being pressurized since the coolant lines are staying hard even when the engine is completely cold. If the problem was just a leaking radiator I would be thrilled, but that doesn't explain the system staying pressurized.

I haven't done a vacuum test on the coolant system, just a pressure test. Would any of those hoses you mentioned leaking cause the pressurization though?

Yeah head erosion is what I'm worried about by waiting. The timing just isn't great for me to do it right now.

I just mentioned the limp mode problem in case it could be related. I have another thread on that here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90033. I've already checked for vacuum leaks and bypassed the solenoid to no avail. After I bypassed the solenoid I put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum modulator. It's pulling about 25 lbs even when it goes from full power into limp mode, so I assume the modulator isn't the problem. I also now don't think my boost is actually going down when it loses power, at least not according to my obdII. The actuator arm has good movement. As far as air in the fuel goes, the previous owner had clear lines running to and from the fuel filter head, and, before I replaced them with real fuel lines, I could sometimes see air in the fuel leaving the filter head. Not sure if that is normal, but I imagine its not. I may end up having to replace the filter head, which is too bad because it has been replaced at some point already. And yes it is throwing a low boost code, P0299 I believe.

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2006 silver Liberty CRD, ECO tune, EGR delete, 3.5 in magnaflow muffler, 2.5" lift, 245/75/16

I had coolant leaking onto the top of the reservoir once. It was caused by a failed hose clamp on the small hose attached to the top of the bottle. Maybe try replacing that hose clamp.

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2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

Air in fuel would be most likely caused by the plastic fuel line fittings between the tank and the fuel head sucking in air from negative pressure from CP3 injector pump at the engine. Air could definitely come from the fuel head but if it has been replaced with new style its unlikely. If you saw any air in the previous line its too much. I would install a lift pump. Many ways and costs to do it see many threads on subject. Choices from $40 or so pump like facet placed in engine compartment 30 minutes labor to Kennedy Lift pump on frame which is about $250 and 2 hours to the holy grail carter lift pump or similar in tank about $60 and wiring harness adapter if u want higher and probably 3 to 4 hours or more dropping tank etc.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Sorry didn't address rest.
I don't see how any significant leak in coolant system could keep system pressurized when cold , but if it did I would say it would have to be head gasket with some ball valve effect. You can also get a kit to test coolant for exhaust gases that would indicate a head leak.

I highly recommend replacing the coolant with zerx G05 when you do anything to resolve the problem soon.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Just to clarify, I did not see any air going into the filter head, only in the line leaving the filter head.

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2006 silver Liberty CRD, ECO tune, EGR delete, 3.5 in magnaflow muffler, 2.5" lift, 245/75/16