Water Pump broke a couple weeks back and it took time to get the kit from IDParts. Then more time to get it installed. While it has been down I had a great idea of doing an oil change and track down this slow oil leak. Note, the Liberty is my GF's, not mine.

It seems the last person to do an oil change (not me) stripped the pan and the plug has never actually been tight enough. Also it's obviously been stripped before since the plug size is 11/16-20 (standard, not metric). Now I need to tap new threads and get a new oil plug ASAP as I am flying out for work on Monday.

11/16" is big. I thought about tapping new M20-1.5 threads and putting a new plug in for the time being, then later swap in a Fumoto valve at the next oil change. Unfortunately I can't locate a m20-1.5 tap.

Would an m22-1.5 be too large? I know I can find both tap and plug in town. Or possibly 3/4" since it's smaller but I am not sure about the plug and tap till I hit the auto parts and hardware stores tomorrow.

You could just use something like the Dorman 65240 universal plug today and make a plan and order parts to fix it right next oil change. Some grease monkey had done this to mine before I bought it, and I discovered the universal plug the first time I changed the oil. I've since put in a fumoto drain valve

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2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

That's an idea and I'm assuming it held? I tried a Dorman 090-932CD expanding plug but that failed miserably. $50 in oil all over the parking lot.

Didn't leak a drop in the 6000 miles I ran it and who knows how long it was on there before...
It was easy to remove too, when the time came.

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

What I did early on when I bought my Jeep and discovered someone had already put an oversized self tapping oil drain plug in the oil pan and it to was stripped and would not tighten up.

A simple fix using readily available parts from any hardware store.
It is still working just fine with no leaks and nothing hanging way down to get caught on something.
Tap stipped drain hole in oil pan with a 1/2" NPT tap (tapered threads). Only tap using about 1/2 of the tap since it is tapered.
Insert a 1/2" x 3/8" steel or brass pipe bushing with threads liberally coated with red high strength LocTite or other high strength thread locking / sealing compound.
Then screw a male 3/8 hex plug into the pipe bushing with teflon tape on threads.
Then when you change oil you only have to R&R the 3/8 hex plug out and back in the pipe bushing. The 1/2" pipe bushing basically becomes a permanent part of the oil pan.
Problem solved.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I managed to find matching m22-1.5 tap and oil pan plug along with a 13/16" drill bit. The tap went through the oil pan like butter and the plug seems to be working.

I'll order a Fumoto m22 valve next oil change.

Glad to hear you got the job done!

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax