2006 CRD with recurring computer issues

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

Hey guys, I've got a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. I got the computer replaced in January at a dealership in my hometown, and they gave a two-year warranty on the work, and this past weekend I had an issue going down the highway where I was capped at 60mph. Luckily, I was able to make it to the exit where my car's engine was still chugging. When the light turned green, I was unable to move at all and had to push it to a gas station with highway patrol. I was waiting for a AAA tow-truck, went inside for a snack, turned my car back on and it worked just fine. I brought it into a Jeep dealership by me to have the engine read and it gave them the codes: P0299, P0530, P0610, P0300 and P1263. I just graduated college and moved for work, so I brought it to a different dealership where I now work. They said they didn't have the computer to work on it there and they recommended I go to a local diesel mechanic to get it worked on. Another thing to note is that if I don't drive the vehicle for about a week, I'll have a dead battery. I do have an after-market radio, but I don't think that is what is causing the issue. Please let me know if you have experienced anything like this, and what you think I should do. This problem has been a nightmare over the past year and a half with recurring battery issues. I'm getting desperate, and I don't want to get rid of this vehicle, but it's causing me headache after headache.

Thanks in advance for any input!

- Alex

Billybob · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 2:29 am

Welcome to Lost...you have come to the right place!
Always read Sams Noob Guide here for information on the CRD!

Firstly if you do not have the 2006 Jeep KJ Service Manual then download it here...gives you Theory of OPS and section 8W has the Wiring Diagrams. The end of the Opening Page gives you the DTC codes whereby those codes you have listed are shown and direct you to what the codes mean and what to do about them.

Secondly the ECM/TCM BCM etc. are very robust components and do not easily fail but the Dealers and other so-called Mechanics are very quick to swap them out.

I will look up those codes you have and get back to you but here is what you can do in the meantime.

The 2006 CRD has a known issue whereby the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket was moved slightly higher so as to make space for a larger ABS unit. In this process the mounting bracket now presses down on the large wiring harness behind it causing wire in the harness to chaff through to chassis or to chaff through to other random wires nearby.

Remove this Fuel Head Mounting bracket and carefully check the wiring there for any damage.

The Wiring Diagrams Section 8W Index has a Locations section where you can find most of the Grounding points for your Jeep....loose or corroded grounds cause a lot of problems.

Having your battery going flat could be related to the other problems.
You need to purchase a cheap Digital Multi meter...does not have to be too accurate.
With one lead of the battery disconnected... plug the meter leads into the AMP sockets and set the meter to the AMP setting. Connect the meter in series with the battery and the disconnected battery cable...does not matter which lead or which way the meter is connected.
Do not try to switch on the ignition or try to turn the engine over as you will blow a fuse in the meter.
Now with everything turned OFF in the Jeep...radio, internal lights etc. the current drawn should be around about 35 mA ie. 0.030 Amps. If it is a lot higher ie. around 2 or 3 amps then you need to pull out fuses...under the hood and inside the cabin...one by one to see which circuit is drawing a lot of current. Then you can climb into the Wiring Diagrams to see what that circuit is doing!

Jeep KJ Service Manuals: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Have fun :wink:

OK will look into the codes in more detail later....the real experts here will chip in soon in any case!
What the Dealers definitely stuffed up was when they replaced the ECM they appear to have programmed the ECM as having an auto-gearbox programmed as a manual gearbox or vice versa...hence the P0610 code!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:15 am

codes as stated in manual are:
P0299 Boost pressure sensor positive deviation
P0530 A/C pressure sensor too high or too low (air conditioning)
P0610 Automatic transmission coded as manual transmission
P0300 Misfire detected / multiple misfire detected
P1263 Glow plug number 2 low control circuit low

Here is a link to the codes and definitions
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=40073

First thing I would do is get a code reader or an app for your phone to read the codes like torque app. Erase the codes and then see if they return and which ones return.
Second: Never, Ever blindly trust a dealer and many diesel mechanics in regards to this engine . There were only about 14,000 sold in the united states and most dealers have never seen one much less worked on one and they are not similar to any other diesel engine they have worked on. It is likely that you were already a victim of a dealer throwing in a new ECM to "fix" something but didn't actually address the problem.
Third: Either get ready to get very familiar with the peculiarities of this engine and be willing to learn about and work on it yourself with the forums help or find an honest mechanic that is either familiar with this engine or also willing to learn and probably listen to advice from this forum. There is a traveling mechanic on the forum ( Geordi ) if you have major problems that need attention or timing belt change etc and he can also give you advice on the phone to help you deal with a problem. Your Last choice would be to either fix or don't and cut your loses after that by selling it. At this point it may not be too hard to fix the causes.
Lets dispense with the codes that are more straight forward first.

the P1263 code is a glow plug failure. Likely you still have the original ceramic glow plugs that tend to break the tips off in time and can cause engine damage when this happens although often they break off and don't cause damage. Also the number 2 cylinder could actually be number 3 if the glow plug wiring harness was attached backwards. Changing the glow plugs are a pain and if you do it put in a set of 5 volt steel plugs for about $100 in parts. This doesn't have to be addressed right now. The engine will run fine as is but will be harder to start in cold weather and risk continues to have another break and cause damage.

Next the P0610 It appears the dealer didn't program the new ECM for your automatic transmission. Solution get dealer to correct this by refreshing the ECM correctly though I would wait and see if it repeats or persists after other codes addressed.

So two of the codes fairly straight forward . See how easy it is ? :-)r

P0530 should be what it sounds like . such as low freon in AC system etc . Does your AC cool normally ?
Either way it won't affect the engines ability to run. Another relatively easy one for now.

Then comes the likely codes associated with your problem. The dreaded P0299 (just kidding but it is common and a little more involved to trouble shoot, and the less common p0300.

What you experienced with decreased power but engine continuing to run is termed Limp mode and can often be reset by restarting the engine. Also sometimes after turning the key off and restarting the engine about four times and possibly driving a bit each time the CEL (check engine light) may go out.

I will post this part and then try to give you more thoughts

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:42 am

Has the CEL been on for quite a while or ever since ECM replaced? If not I will conjecture that you may have just experienced in real time the tip of a ceramic glow plug braking off and being crushed by the valves and may have kept a valve from closing for a brief period . This would explain the glow plug code and could explain the misfire code if the valves were only temporarily affected by a piece of broken glow plug.

I am not sure but I suppose the P0299 which generally refers to an underboost situation could possibly be related to the acute event but not near as likely.

If the jeep is running normally now I would change the glow plugs soon to prevent another breakage that could cause infinitely more severe problems.

The P0299 underboost if real could be from several things such as cracking of intercooler hoses which is very common usually accompanied by lots of black smoke from exhaust or even just loose hose clamps. Also several things that can benefit from trouble shooting such as turbo vacuum solenoid that can be bypassed to test or turbo actuator arm not moving fully or vacuum reservoir leak etc. This often causes intermittent limp mode.

Finally a bad ground or electrical short can cause all of these though less likely for some such as the P1263 glow plug code. These can be particularly frustrating to track down and correct, but on the bright side may not cost anything but your time and nerves :banghead:

.

It sounds to me like you have a broken number 2 or three glow plug and an electrical ground or short problem or a true boost problem. If you end up checking grounds at least one is not shown in the factory service manual. It is near the drivers side headlight beneath the battery tray.

I applaud the dealership you work at for admitting that they feel you should take it to another Diesel mechanic etc. Likely they knew it might be a major headache and didn't want to disappoint their employee .

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:00 am

So what do you need to do now?

First clear all the codes and drive it some and see what codes return and report back here.

You can often get codes read at no charge at a local auto parts store such as auto zone but some have quit this service and most will not erase the codes, just get a code reader it doesn't have to be an expensive one the hardware to use with smartphones are about $20 on eBay etc and works by bluetooth. A standard dedicated relatively simple reader is around $40 to $50. The first and only OBD II reader I have was bought in about 1998. The OBD II system began use as early as 1994 but more widespread in 1996 and newer models.

Hopefully your ac actually works ok or is just low on freon. The transmission code goes away or is corrected by dealership. The glow plug tip broke causing no major engine damage nut the permanent P1263 P0300 and possibly the P0299. This would be your most straight forward problem and fix and you lucked out with no engine damage.

As a side note I found 3 broken glow plugs on a jeep I bought to repair and none of them caused permanent damage and two others had one or two broken glow plugs. Only 2 didn't have any broken glow plugs but they were changed for preventative problems.

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

TKB4 wrote:

So what do you need to do now?

First clear all the codes and drive it some and see what codes return and report back here.

You can often get codes read at no charge at a local auto parts store such as auto zone but some have quit this service and most will not erase the codes, just get a code reader it doesn't have to be an expensive one the hardware to use with smartphones are about $20 on eBay etc and works by bluetooth. A standard dedicated relatively simple reader is around $40 to $50. The first and only OBD II reader I have was bought in about 1998. The OBD II system began use as early as 1994 but more widespread in 1996 and newer models.

Hopefully your ac actually works ok or is just low on freon. The transmission code goes away or is corrected by dealership. The glow plug tip broke causing no major engine damage nut the permanent P1263 P0300 and possibly the P0299. This would be your most straight forward problem and fix and you lucked out with no engine damage.

As a side note I found 3 broken glow plugs on a jeep I bought to repair and none of them caused permanent damage and two others had one or two broken glow plugs. Only 2 didn't have any broken glow plugs but they were changed for preventative problems.

Thank you so much for the extensive response. Another thing to note that might help you diagnose me, the CEL wasn't ever on not even when I entered limp mode nor after it. I knew something was obviously up, so I took it in to an advanced auto parts to get the codes read before taking it to Jeep. Their reader didn't register any codes. However, Jeep brought me back the codes I previously mentioned.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:38 am

Those may have been stored codes . Sounds like either the CEL LED has burned out or has been purposefully disabled or maybe has an SEGR which is an electronic device to fool the CEL.. To check and see if the light even works you can check all the gauge lights warnings etc but I would unplug the mass air flow sensor which is on the air filter box lid this is called the ORM or off road mod and PICS are in the NOOB GUIDE so generously and helpfully provided by Sir Sam many years ago.. This should cause the CEL to come on if it doesn't either you have an aftermarket tune which is unlikely since dealer replaced or you have a non functional CEL and you cannot rely on it to warn you etc. For now I would also leave the MAF off to disable the EGR function. The EGR valve is also a possible source of Boost leak which can cause the P0299 code but isn't corrected by the ORM.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 8:09 am

another simple thing I forgot, you might want to unplug and plug back in the ECM oand inspect pins to make sure not malaligned or tarnished etc. Often unplugging and replugging in can correct a poor connection.

Ludi Neethling · **Joined:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:04 am **Posts:** 87

For what it is worth, my CRD also went into limp mode on several occasions without CEL or fault codes due to a faulty crank shaft position sensor. I really hope you get things sorted. Good luck.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:37 am

Given the symptoms, it wouldn’t hurt to check for air in fuel and replace the fuel filter.
Crank sensor is a possibility too.

None of those codes would produce a low/no power condition where you would have to push it off the road.
A p0299 will cause reduced power but it’s not a show stopper.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:48 am

Richardac wrote:

Thank you so much for the extensive response. Another thing to note that might help you diagnose me, the CEL wasn't ever on not even when I entered limp mode nor after it. I knew something was obviously up, so I took it in to an advanced auto parts to get the codes read before taking it to Jeep. Their reader didn't register any codes. However, Jeep brought me back the codes I previously mentioned.

Ludi Neethling wrote:

For what it is worth, my CRD also went into limp mode on several occasions without CEL or fault codes due to a faulty crank shaft position sensor. I really hope you get things sorted. Good luck.
So true! Years ago my crankshaft sensor put me on the side of the road twice with NO DTC's (codes)!

If you have not replaced the crankshaft sensor, do so, they are notorious for causing running and non running issues without setting any codes!
AutoZone sells a nice reboxed OEM Bosch sensor. > https://www.autozone.com/engine-managem ... ext=SU8492

Crankshaft Sensor: OEM pn: 5066882AA Bosch pn: 0281002434 VM Motori pn: 45962057F Autozone pn: SU8492

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 8:36 pm

Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Holstein-2CRK0641-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor/dp/B07DHT59JQ?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07DHT59JQ I haven't dealt with this brand at all.

Bosch Parts (Parts BOS) http://partsbos.com/crankshaft-rpm-sensors/395-bosch-0281002434-5066882aa-45962057f-5s7000.html Great service. I got my stuff in 5 days but that was almost 3 years ago.

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

WWDiesel wrote:

Richardac wrote:

Thank you so much for the extensive response. Another thing to note that might help you diagnose me, the CEL wasn't ever on not even when I entered limp mode nor after it. I knew something was obviously up, so I took it in to an advanced auto parts to get the codes read before taking it to Jeep. Their reader didn't register any codes. However, Jeep brought me back the codes I previously mentioned.

Ludi Neethling wrote:

For what it is worth, my CRD also went into limp mode on several occasions without CEL or fault codes due to a faulty crank shaft position sensor. I really hope you get things sorted. Good luck.
So true! Years ago my crankshaft sensor put me on the side of the road twice with NO DTC's (codes)!

If you have not replaced the crankshaft sensor, do so, they are notorious for causing running and non running issues without setting any codes!
AutoZone sells a nice reboxed OEM Bosch sensor. > https://www.autozone.com/engine-managem ... ext=SU8492

Crankshaft Sensor: OEM pn: 5066882AA Bosch pn: 0281002434 VM Motori pn: 45962057F Autozone pn: SU8492

Thank you! I plan on buying the crankshaft sensor this weekend to replace. I'll keep everyone involved updated with how my issues get resolved.

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:39 am

Fast way to check if all the cluster LEDs are working...such as the CEL light...and have not been blanked off or ripped of by a previous owner or Dealer is the following.

Hold the Odometer trip reset button in while turning ignition ON.
The cluster LEDs will cycle ON/OFF and the gauges will move around.
The Service Manual Cluster section will show which LEDs you should have fitted and their location on the cluster.

This above procedure merely exercises the cluster and is not a diagnostic.
It ends with a display of some digits which is the revision level of the cluster firmware.

Clear the codes and see if they return...replacing crank and cam sensors would be a good idea...don't use cheap pirate parts. Some fuel problems such as a blocked fuel filter do not post codes. :wink:

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

WWDiesel wrote:

Richardac wrote:

Thank you so much for the extensive response. Another thing to note that might help you diagnose me, the CEL wasn't ever on not even when I entered limp mode nor after it. I knew something was obviously up, so I took it in to an advanced auto parts to get the codes read before taking it to Jeep. Their reader didn't register any codes. However, Jeep brought me back the codes I previously mentioned.

Ludi Neethling wrote:

For what it is worth, my CRD also went into limp mode on several occasions without CEL or fault codes due to a faulty crank shaft position sensor. I really hope you get things sorted. Good luck.
So true! Years ago my crankshaft sensor put me on the side of the road twice with NO DTC's (codes)!

If you have not replaced the crankshaft sensor, do so, they are notorious for causing running and non running issues without setting any codes!
AutoZone sells a nice reboxed OEM Bosch sensor. > https://www.autozone.com/engine-managem ... ext=SU8492

Crankshaft Sensor: OEM pn: 5066882AA Bosch pn: 0281002434 VM Motori pn: 45962057F Autozone pn: SU8492

Forgive me because I'm very new to working on my car myself, could someone give me some guidance on how to go about looking through the manual and diagrams? I'm trying to figure out where the sensor is located and have watched a couple of videos on replacing it. I briefly looked under my vehicle today for the sensor, but I was having a hard time definitively location where it is located. Thanks in advance. This seems like a very easy repair for me to do, but I want to make sure I'm not messing with parts I shouldn't be. I'll leave the more advanced repairs to someone else. I've been in contact with the gentleman Geordi located by me, and he's going to take a look when he's back in two weeks from working on other CRDs. Thanks in advanced!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:13 am

Getting at the crank sensor is not the easiest thing.
Some like to top down approach but there is a lot of stuff in the way.
The bottom up approach is more cumbersome but only the exhaust pipe is in the way. I was able to do it without unbolting the exhaust..

The crank sensor is on the passenger side of the engine block.
Near where the engine meets the transmission.
Behind an aluminum heat shield.
Sensor is held in by a metric allen head bolt and will take some wiggling and twisting to get the sensor out.
Just dont force it and break it off.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:14 am

Easiest method I have found is to go at it from underneath the vehicle while having the vehicle on ramps or front right jacked up with a good jack stand under it for safety.
It can be changed without moving the exhaust pipe, it is a tight space, but doable.
Once you get the single hold down bolt out (metric allen wrench), twisting and pulling on the sensor at the same time will facilitate it's removal.
You have to remove the heat shield first to see the Crankshaft Sensor and unplug it's connector that is attached to the back of the block in a bracket.
See pictures:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 04, 2019 1:14 pm

I did mine from above and might be easier to unscrew allen I think its a 7 mm but not sure . You can tell where it is from below by looking for the wire/cable that goes to it from bell housing disappear behind the heat shield like in WW s pic that shows it with heat shield off. These are neat hydraulic jack stands but I digress:
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-62047 ... way&sr=8-5

One of the hardest things for me was just getting the plastic wiring connectors undone.
Typically the crank sensor makes jeep engine quit when hot then after cooling a few minutes will start back but not always. I had one that just did it intermittently and one that once it started would only run 3-5 miles before needing to cool off again that one threw the code the other one did not.Here is the Chrysler one on Amazon that has gone up about $15 in last month it came much quicker than they estimated.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013W ... UTF8&psc=1

There is at least one writeup on Lost with step by step instructions

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

Thank you again to those who replied about the crankshaft. I'm going to do some work on it this weekend, and I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Richardac · **Joined:** Tue Jul 02, 2019 12:14 am **Posts:** 9

Hey, guys. Since reviewing the feedback and comments on this post, I've changed my oil, changed my fuel filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and MAP sensor. I unplugged the MAF sensor, and the CEL came on as suggested; however, when I have the computer (Foxwell NT201) I bought connected no codes are showing up. I wanted to make sure this was a normal thing. I'll also be replacing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors this weekend. I accidentally ordered the wrong camshaft at Napa, and I realized it as soon as I pulled the camshaft sensor out. If there's anything else anyone thinks of that I should do for general maintenance, please let me know. Since my CRD went into limp mode a couple of weeks ago and doing all of the above from the NoobGuide, I haven't had any issues. I want to make sure it stays that way. Thanks in advance!

2006 CRD with recurring computer issues

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