I bought a CRD and I have issues. Rockers?

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Sad evening in the shop. I studied the injector hold down bolt on #2. Good news is it broke up high enough I should be able to get two modified nuts on it. Bad news is I had to undo everything I had done tonight. Could have been way way worse.
Does anyone know if those bolts are anything besides 10.9 flanged head? Something makes me thing they are a little softer than normal.
I’m going to call the dodge dealer in the am and see what they have/ can get.

A heads up for everyone. The 3 hard to get to bolts on the intake elbow are really easy to get to with the use of a 24” 1/4 drive extension from underneath!

Garrett

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 23, 2019 6:14 pm

yes a lot of people do them from underneath but if you can maneuver hands pretty well especially if you have longer arms you can hold socket and ratchet in one hand while guiding it with other hand from opposite side from above.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Thats how I was doing it the first time. Different strokes for different folks.

If I would have had the injector hold down bolts she would have ran lastnight. Timing was pretty easy, everything goes round and around like I think it should so I guess it where it should be.
I have the front all together except having the belt on. The top is just missing the injector hold downs, floping the harenas back over and its connections, the vac control stuff, ECM and coolant tank.

I fully expect it to run today.

Garrett.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 24, 2019 8:23 am

tough break on the injector hold down bolts. Sounds like you about got it licked . Sometimes getting the timing belt on correctly can be a little tedious and sometimes its smooth. Everytime I do it I wish the tensioner would get a little looser. As long as you get the pins in with everything torqued it will be right. Good luck doesn't sound like you need it. Hope no other problems anytime soon . Just got one of mine back together from head gasket ARP reconditioned head , rockers yesterday.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

She is %98 done and she is trying to hit but nothing more that a few seconds so far. Old CP3 must not push much volume and its takin a while to get the air purged.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jul 25, 2019 8:19 am

TheKansasGman wrote:

She is %98 done and she is trying to hit but nothing more that a few seconds so far. Old CP3 must not push much volume and its takin a while to get the air purged.

TINY volume. Even brand new. IIRC the max volume the CP3 puts out is something like 3ml/pump revolution. Even that much is plenty for this engine, but it does take a while to push air out of the rail. It helps to crack the highest cylinder fuel line at the rail to bleed the air. once it's running it will work the rest out on it's' own as long as there are no more leaks.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 25, 2019 10:48 am

Next up, lift pump?

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

TKB4 wrote:

Next up, lift pump?

Im not sure how much a LP would help much.
If I would have thought about it I would have cracked #4 injection line and spun the I pump with a drill before I put the timing belt on.

Im going to rip home over lunch and try again.

Garrett

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 25, 2019 3:19 pm

I believe adding an in-tank lift pump really helps the performance and efficiency of the CP3 and it's ability to self prime and evacuate air from the system.

I know on mine, added the Carter in-tank pump even seemed to quieten the running noise of the engine a little.
~10-15 psig constant feed pressure to the CP3 would be continually pushing any entrapped air out of the pumps internals and back to the fuel tank before it could get pumped into the fuel rail.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

WWDiesel wrote:

I believe adding an in-tank lift pump really helps the performance and efficiency of the CP3 and it's ability to self prime and evacuate air from the system.

I know on mine, added the Carter in-tank pump even seemed to quieten the running noise of the engine a little.
~10-15 psig constant feed pressure to the CP3 would be continually pushing any entrapped air out of the pumps internals and back to the fuel tank before it could get pumped into the fuel rail.

I agree from the tank to the pump but I don't see it doing much from the pump upwards.

Any who, still no dice over lunch. She's trying thought. It will happen tonight!

Something I don't really understand is that with the maf unplugged I'm not getting a CEL. Does it take a while of running for it to trigger?
Garrett

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Looking for a little direction here, should my primer pump Remain firm after I pump it up?
I pump it 4 or 5 reps and it firms up but looses that after I crank it over. Should I be tracing a leak somewhere?

Sent from a phone, in the shop,
Garrett.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Update! I have fuel on the floor!! Primer is softer after sitting for ~30 seconds.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

I’m not sure where this is coming from. Looks like from the back of the head but all the returns are dry, nothing leaking from the injectors... I stand corrected on the lift pump statement, I didn’t think it would be able to push past the check valves in the pump but I can get fuel from #4 with the primer.

What what I expect for crank time after a empty rail? I’ve get to be getting close to 10 min.
Garrett

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

I think I’m making progress. I have had a few multi cylinder runs for one or two seconds.
It seams to have more will to run if I leave the key at run until the dash lights go out before I start cranking.

I have ideas about the floor fuel but I’m not ready to disclose them.
Still curious about the primer pump situation.
Tomorrow!

Garrett.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 26, 2019 9:17 am

I was actually referring to next project when i said "next up lift pump?", not a need for it now. It usually takes mine about 30 seconds to a minute to start after changing TB. I used to pump it then try starting for about 30 seconds then pump it again and try again but now with lift pump just turn key on for 30 seconds a couple of times then crank, I have had it take maybe 90 seconds of cranking before it started prior to lift pumps. I also pour filters fuel if changing them before replacing.

Maybe fuel head is leaking air in, but unusual time to show up. Make sure you reconnected the fuel rail to the four way connection at rear of drivers side and clamps are on it and fuel rail though not sure it would contribute. I sometimes have to remind myself to retighten the front rail to cp3 lines on both ends. I am sure you have but I would remove and replace the electrical injector connections also.

You could also undo fuel line to filter and connect a different piece of fuel line to a jar etc with fuel to rule out any air from further toward tank. I took a large jar drilled a hole slightly larger than fuel line in lid filled with fuel and put it higher than hood once. You could just weight down end of hose and put in any container then bleed fuel head pump tight and try again.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 26, 2019 9:21 am

if it definitely wants to run more after key on a while maybe it already has a lift pump somewhere. The key on does activate the pump for about 30 seconds or so if wired up as most do. To check just turn key on and open bleed valve some.

To answer directly the fuel head will pump to firm then after attempting start it may well not be firm until pumped again several times till air totally out. In mine its also not firm after driving normally with no leaks until pumped several times.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

TKB4, thank you,

I will crack the bleeder open tonight and see what I get with the key on. I have not tried cycling the key before cranking. I will give that a try also.

This is the problem with buying a vehicle that has been through so many hands, no idea whats been done.

I just want to drive this thing...

Garrett.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 26, 2019 4:47 pm

I feel you

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

I’ve discovered three very interesting things.
1. The glow plugs are running.
2. With the glow plug relay disconnected there is 0 firing.
3. Plug the reply back in and it’s has its longest multi cylinder run this far. Maybe 4 seconds.

Threw testing the air bleeder on the fuel head, I don’t have a lift pump. My thinking now is that that little bit of time with the key on was warming up the glow plugs.

But now I ask, why are the gp’s even called for when it’s upper 80’s in the shop?
Can a guy be out of time by one tooth either way and the motor still turns over fine (not hitting valves) but doesn’t build enough compression to fire fuel?

I set the timing back to the marks that were already there. (Someone was in there for something)

Garrett

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 26, 2019 6:59 pm

Being off 1 tooth at the cams will likely not cause any problems.
However, don’t trust any timing marks that you didn’t make yourself.
You have to pin the cams.
And pin the crank if you don’t trust your eyeball.

The glow plugs turn on every time you turn on the key.
How long they stay on depends on ambient temperature.
In 80+ degree weather, the engine should start just fine with the GP relay removed.

I bought a CRD and I have issues. Rockers?

Who is online