chatter at idle

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

I noticed a chatter when i'm idling, I recorded a video and uploaded to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh6GS6chOus I think its my ac pulley as it happens when it cycles. I should probably replace the serp belt looking at that again.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 21, 2019 8:01 pm

Hard to tell watching video when ac is being turned on or off etc. but it looks like the alternator decoupler pulley has some play. The alternator pulley is a much more common part to wear out and could be making more noise with more resistant to serpentine belt rotation by engaging the ac. It usually leaves some characteristic red dust around it. Either way it would help to remove tension on the serpentine and see if the pulleys have any play or make any funny noises when rotating .

If it turns out to be the alternator there is a lifetime guarantee one at advance auto for about $115 with coupons etc. The decoupler can be changed but it requires a tool and good decoupler pulley used to be about $30 .

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 21, 2019 9:51 pm

Is the serpentine belt/tensioner pulley bouncing a bunch? If so, I chased this similar problem for several weeks back when I first got my Jeep CRD.
I changed the alternator pulley first, and it helped a little, then I changed the serpentine belt tensioner & pulley and that stopped almost all of the bouncing and 80% of the noise.
Finely, I replaced both motor mounts and that was the icing on the cake. All the noise at idle was GONE! Idles smooth as silk now with no noise! :BINGO:

Turned out the left motor mount was very bad and after I got it off if you shook it by hand, it rattled excessively internally.
Was simply a process of elimination...... :juggle:

Good luck!

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

WWDiesel wrote:

Is the serpentine belt/tensioner pulley bouncing a bunch? If so, I chased this similar problem for several weeks back when I first got my Jeep CRD.
I changed the alternator pulley first, and it helped a little, then I changed the serpentine belt tensioner & pulley and that stopped almost all of the bouncing and 80% of the noise.
Finely, I replaced both motor mounts and that was the icing on the cake. All the noise at idle was GONE! Idles smooth as silk now with no noise! :BINGO:

Turned out the left motor mount was very bad and after I got it off if you shook it by hand, it rattled excessively internally.
Was simply a process of elimination...... :juggle:

Good luck!

I live in rustville so I imagine that all 3 are culprits. my roommate took a look and he could see fraying. I guess I could pull the fuse for the ac clutch and see if the chatter stops. I had a van with a similar issue it sounded like that but it was constant. and replacing the clutch fixed it. unrelated I put led bulbs in and they are super bright.

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

TKB4 wrote:

Hard to tell watching video when ac is being turned on or off etc. but it looks like the alternator decoupler pulley has some play. The alternator pulley is a much more common part to wear out and could be making more noise with more resistant to serpentine belt rotation by engaging the ac. It usually leaves some characteristic red dust around it. Either way it would help to remove tension on the serpentine and see if the pulleys have any play or make any funny noises when rotating .

If it turns out to be the alternator there is a lifetime guarantee one at advance auto for about $115 with coupons etc. The decoupler can be changed but it requires a tool and good decoupler pulley used to be about $30 .

yeah I noticed rust on it I seen a pulley on rockauto and the tool, how much of a pita is it to change? I think theres some on Bigfoot too but I pay with snow pesos so I'm kinda limited.

Billybob · **Posted:** Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:36 am

The decoupler should only move in one direction when moved by hand.

The newest part numbers for the decoupler I believe is for a oil filled unit as apposed to the original dry units that tend to fail.

Quite a bit of work to get the decoupler off from the alternator shaft...I think I am going to have to try this job sometime soon on my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD!

There is a good writeup on ausjeepoffroad.com on how to make up tools to do the job...I will see if I can find the link there for this procedure! :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 22, 2019 12:22 pm

Way back when I first had mine changed; I took it to a local starter/generator repair shop and he stuck an air impact wrench on it and bumped it once with the air impact and it came right off.
He used no special tools and told me some Toyotas also had this same override clutch on their alternators and he was well versed in changing them.
He screwed the new Litens Alternator Pulley on by hand and bumped it one time with the air impact and handed me the alternator.
He did not even charge me any labor for changing it out.

So, when my alternator died about a year later, I used the same procedure in my shop using a air impact to remove the fairly new Litens Pulley before turning the core into Autozone when I purchased a new alternator that came with a new pulley.
Saved the Litens Pulley for a spare in case I ever need it.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 22, 2019 8:26 pm

I haven't ever changed one didn't think it was worth it when lifetime easy changeout available for $99 when I got mine. I haven't ever seen one either so WW s at least one up on me :ROTFL:

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

WWDiesel wrote:

Way back when I first had mine changed; I took it to a local starter/generator repair shop and he stuck an air impact wrench on it and bumped it once with the air impact and it came right off.
He used no special tools and told me some Toyotas also had this same override clutch on their alternators and he was well versed in changing them.
He screwed the new Litens Alternator Pulley on by hand and bumped it one time with the air impact and handed me the alternator.
He did not even charge me any labor for changing it out.

So, when my alternator died about a year later, I used the same procedure in my shop using a air impact to remove the fairly new Litens Pulley before turning the core into Autozone when I purchased a new alternator that came with a new pulley.
Saved the Litens Pulley for a spare in case I ever need it.

hold on so just the gun its self? was it a 1/2 drive?

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

I have this guy https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-6eokUxw2-KdBl_TF4ePc84E7CW-aruh think it do? I should set it to reverse right, as the adp rotates clockwise?

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Jul 24, 2019 5:56 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Way back when I first had mine changed; I took it to a local starter/generator repair shop and he stuck an air impact wrench on it and bumped it once with the air impact and it came right off.
He used no special tools and told me some Toyotas also had this same override clutch on their alternators and he was well versed in changing them.
He screwed the new Litens Alternator Pulley on by hand and bumped it one time with the air impact and handed me the alternator.
He did not even charge me any labor for changing it out.

So, when my alternator died about a year later, I used the same procedure in my shop using a air impact to remove the fairly new Litens Pulley before turning the core into Autozone when I purchased a new alternator that came with a new pulley.
Saved the Litens Pulley for a spare in case I ever need it.

Could you give us a bit more detail on this removal procedure please!
Do you drive the female Hex section in the clockwise direction when looking at it from the front or counter-clockwise?

Or do you simply drive the square 10mm female slot with an air impact and if so in which direction?

I am struggling to find the procedure on ausjeepoffroad that showed them using a hollow long nut that held the pully in place with a spanner the same size as the long nut and then drove the alternator shaft off of the stationary pulley using an air impact and somehow driving it through the hollow long nut. :shock:

I may need to order a Litens Coupler soon as the local Stealers charge a fortune and do not know what they are doing. After much research I assertained that my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD can use the same updated coupler PN as used on the 2005/2006 CRDS and that this is effectively a grease-filled Litens! :wink:

Edit to add: The link I was looking for was not on ausjeepoffroad but right here on LOST in the CRD section. User mrkake posted the procedure on Wed Jul 03, 2013. :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 26, 2019 10:46 pm

Billybob wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Way back when I first had mine changed; I took it to a local starter/generator repair shop and he stuck an air impact wrench on it and bumped it once with the air impact and it came right off.
He used no special tools and told me some Toyotas also had this same override clutch on their alternators and he was well versed in changing them.
He screwed the new Litens Alternator Pulley on by hand and bumped it one time with the air impact and handed me the alternator.
He did not even charge me any labor for changing it out.
So, when my alternator died about a year later, I used the same procedure in my shop using a air impact to remove the fairly new Litens Pulley before turning the core into Autozone when I purchased a new alternator that came with a new pulley.
Saved the Litens Pulley for a spare in case I ever need it.

Could you give us a bit more detail on this removal procedure please!
Do you drive the female Hex section in the clockwise direction when looking at it from the front or counter-clockwise?
Or do you simply drive the square 10mm female slot with an air impact and if so in which direction?
I am struggling to find the procedure on ausjeepoffroad that showed them using a hollow long nut that held the pully in place with a spanner the same size as the long nut and then drove the alternator shaft off of the stationary pulley using an air impact and somehow driving it through the hollow long nut. :shock:

I may need to order a Litens Coupler soon as the local Stealers charge a fortune and do not know what they are doing. After much research I assertained that my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD can use the same updated coupler PN as used on the 2005/2006 CRDS and that this is effectively a grease-filled Litens! :wink:

Edit to add: The link I was looking for was not on ausjeepoffroad but right here on LOST in the CRD section. User mrkake posted the procedure on Wed Jul 03, 2013. :wink:

Finely found my used pulley.
Using a 17mm hex socket, hit it with a strong air impact wrench in a counter clockwise direction a couple of times and it should spin right off the alternators shaft.
Install is reverse of removal.
You will need a 17mm hex socket as pictured to perform this.

Billybob · **Posted:** Sat Jul 27, 2019 3:09 am

Thanks for this picture and description WWDiesel!

Makes sense now :wink:

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

so I changed the drive belt, OMG. I think I invented new swears. I have big hands and my father in law doesn't and he even was getting caught. that fan shroud got the sawsall treatment. seemed no way to get it out. the belt seemed to come off easy, but putting it back on took me like 5 hours. i'd get it almost on then go to uload the tensioner and it played slip off the pulley game.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:31 am

Glad you got it done despite the aggravation . Did you determine what was making the noise?

weave2k0 · **Joined:** Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:17 am **Posts:** 8

TKB4 wrote:

Glad you got it done despite the aggravation . Did you determine what was making the noise?

the chatter is almost gone. but I think i'm going to replace the adp next. its rusty. there was some longitudinal cracking and seemed stretched compared to the new one.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 7:22 am

So it sounds like it wasn't the AC clutch. It is easiest to change the serpentine belt with the fan removed but thats not the easiest thing either. You have already taken care of the hardest part by performing a shroudectomy! Plus its always easier the second time around. Hopefully changing the alternator coupler pulley will take care of the rest of your problem. Good Luck!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm

weave2k0 wrote:

TKB4 wrote:

Glad you got it done despite the aggravation . Did you determine what was making the noise?

the chatter is almost gone. but I think i'm going to replace the adp next. its rusty. there was some longitudinal cracking and seemed stretched compared to the new one.

Don't forget, the motor mounts can rattle at idle, especially the drivers side one. They were the final nail in the coffin that stopped all rattling noise at idle on mine... :wink:

chatter at idle

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