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 Post subject: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm
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I bought a 2005 liberty crd. I drove it home and it would not start the next day. I towed it to a diesel repair shop that took the items off to replace the timing belt and didn't complete the job. Items the mechanic found were, front timing cover case has holes cut in it, stripped bolt holes on the head, broken rockers found after removing the valve cover. I've towed the jeep home to fix it myself. I've searched and read many posts here from others that have been down this road. I'd like to get some advise from you guys on things to replace.


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:06 pm 
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Location: Jackson,TN
If its not disassembled now first thing I would does is a pressure test of coolant system to determine whether or not It has a blown head gasket or other more serious loss of coolant source since I assume you did not drive it far enough to notice coolant loss. If you noticed any external leaks it would probably be best to reassemble first anyway Especially before you sink a bunch of money in then find out you have a cracked block etc. I wouldn't worry too much about holes in timing cover its basically a dust shield. I hope they meant the bolt holes that hold down the valve cover if so depending on where they are you may need a different head which could be anywhere from a few hundred dollars for 2nd hand one to about $1800 for anew head.
It would help to know your location and how many miles on your jeep and any other history of the vehicle you know.

You should consider :

New exhaust valves
new head gasket
ARP Studs
EGR Delete with or without elbow kit
New Style fuel filter head if it isn't
Metal 5 volt glow plugs if no metal glow plugs now
Complete timing belt kit installation including new Water pump, Timing Belt, idler Pulleys and Timing Tensioner
Wouldn't hurt to replace crank sensor but don't have to unless thats reason it wouldn't crank.
Consider a lift pump
Consider either a free tune upgrade from this site or a Green Diesel Engineering Tune
Possibly a replacement torque converter at least in future


For the parts cost for TB kit rockers head gasket ARP bolts exhaust valves we are talking in the neighborhood of $1600 and thats if can use current head. This would also take a first timer about 20 hours . There are some things to save on things like homemade timing pin kit or rental or aftermarket kit. Home-brew EGR delete etc. There are many here that would be happy to give sound advise.

First thing would be determine the location of stripped holes in head and if they are valve cover bolts. You could have several stripped ones as long as not several in a row and probably not have a problem. Next you need to decide whether the head is useable otherwise you may want a machine shop to check it for flatness evaluate valves and rule out crack. Next you need to decide if you want to reassemble to try and prove nothing else major wrong but depending on how far you drove it most likely there isn't but if there is you will waste all your moneyed effort. Next how much are you willing to spend? Lastly how dedicated are you to put up with all the frustrations and all the hours of work ahead of you.

Will PM

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm
Posts: 15
TKB4 wrote:
If its not disassembled now first thing I would does is a pressure test of coolant system to determine whether or not It has a blown head gasket or other more serious loss of coolant source since I assume you did not drive it far enough to notice coolant loss. If you noticed any external leaks it would probably be best to reassemble first anyway Especially before you sink a bunch of money in then find out you have a cracked block etc. I wouldn't worry too much about holes in timing cover its basically a dust shield. I hope they meant the bolt holes that hold down the valve cover if so depending on where they are you may need a different head which could be anywhere from a few hundred dollars for 2nd hand one to about $1800 for anew head.
It would help to know your location and how many miles on your jeep and any other history of the vehicle you know.

You should consider :

New exhaust valves
new head gasket
ARP Studs
EGR Delete with or without elbow kit
New Style fuel filter head if it isn't
Metal 5 volt glow plugs if no metal glow plugs now
Complete timing belt kit installation including new Water pump, Timing Belt, idler Pulleys and Timing Tensioner
Wouldn't hurt to replace crank sensor but don't have to unless thats reason it wouldn't crank.
Consider a lift pump
Consider either a free tune upgrade from this site or a Green Diesel Engineering Tune
Possibly a replacement torque converter at least in future


For the parts cost for TB kit rockers head gasket ARP bolts exhaust valves we are talking in the neighborhood of $1600 and thats if can use current head. This would also take a first timer about 20 hours . There are some things to save on things like homemade timing pin kit or rental or aftermarket kit. Home-brew EGR delete etc. There are many here that would be happy to give sound advise.

First thing would be determine the location of stripped holes in head and if they are valve cover bolts. You could have several stripped ones as long as not several in a row and probably not have a problem. Next you need to decide whether the head is useable otherwise you may want a machine shop to check it for flatness evaluate valves and rule out crack. Next you need to decide if you want to reassemble to try and prove nothing else major wrong but depending on how far you drove it most likely there isn't but if there is you will waste all your moneyed effort. Next how much are you willing to spend? Lastly how dedicated are you to put up with all the frustrations and all the hours of work ahead of you.

Will PM

I live in phoenix, az. The jeep has 146k miles on it. The previous owner tried to maintain the vehicle but the shops did poor work. The timing belt tensioner bolt is stripped out, the bolt hole the went into the head had a nut on the back side. The timing belt was able to walk and wear down to half the original size. a 4 grove serpentine belt is wider than the timing belt that was on this engine. The engine did not lose coolant, and is almost down to a bare block so pressure testing the system isn't possible. I drove it 155 miles from tucson to phoenix without losing any coolant. As far as budget goes, I'd spend the money to fix it right with new parts. I've wanted a diesel liberty for a long time.


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
Posts: 1128
Location: Jackson,TN
This sounds like the vehicle a man posted here that his sister had previously owned. I am not sure I totally understand how the tensioner hole was repaired. A picture would help, but even posting a pic is a learning process here. Easier to host offsite such as Imgur and post link.

The timing belt wear would be a big problem. If you are talking about the normal timing tensioner bolt it does not go into the head or block just into the rear timing cover and it is unusual but there have been a couple of CRD s reported to have a hex nut to hold the timing tensioner bolt. If needed depending on what was done to it you may be able to repair the hole with a timesert or a helicoil.

It would be very difficult to say that no coolant loss was occurring in only 150 miles even by checking the fluid level with a stick etc cold before and after but hopefully it is fine.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm
Posts: 15
Since I didn't take it apart, looking at pictures it is a pulley under one of the cam sprockets. The head has been drilled for a bolt and nut on the back side. The timing belt tensioner bolt hole is stripped out too. I found a used timing case in good shape for $150. I'm working on pulling the head now, 6 bolts won't come out.


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 2:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
Posts: 1128
Location: Jackson,TN
I still do not really understand how the head could be drilled with a nut on the backside because there wouldn't be any way to tighten the nut etc. but I am sure I am losing something in the translation. The only pulleys that have a bolt going through the rear timing cover besides the cam gears are the two timing idler pulleys and they are reverse thread into the engine block. The TB tensioner threads into the rear timing cover and the cam gears bolt onto the cam protrusions through the valve cover. The water pump gear protrudes through a hole in rear cover as does the fuel pump gear and the crank.

Glad you are making some progress. You may need a very long breaker bar or torque wrench and an extension bar like a piece of pipe or maybe PVC to get the head bolts out . You could try a little liquid wrench etc but since the head bolts are a cap type bolt it won't reach the threads very well.

Keep Trying!!

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 10:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm
Posts: 15
The passenger side under the exhaust manifold, the back side of the bolt hole is exposed, there is what feels like a depression in the head casting. Looks like someone used a pneumatic torque wrench to tighten the bolts. The previous owner showed me the receipts for the work that was done to the jeep, so I know which shops to never take any of my cars to. I cut the head around the 6 head bolts to remove them. Head lifts up but I need to unhook the glow plug wires and looks like the pipe for the egr. I'm going to remove the exhaust manifold and turbo from the head outside the car.


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm
Posts: 15
I removed the head, and found water in the cylinders. #4 cylinder wall has severe rust on the wall. None of the valves contacted the pistons, no marks on the carbon buildup or valves.


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 Post subject: Re: Many broken parts
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 10:05 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
Posts: 1128
Location: Jackson,TN
This may not be as bad as you think at first. I had one that had not just rust but some pitting on the upper part of three cylinders and I thought for sure I would at least need to replace the cylinder sleeves and rings. Is the water standing in the cylinders now or was it when you first removed it ? That would improve your chances of not having lower end damage like bearings etc. Make sure again that there is no moisture/water in the crankcase oil. First get whatever pooling water there is out with sponge rag whatever, then I blew warm air across and in the cylinders till as dry as I could get it. Then I wiped the exposed portion of the cylinder walls with scotchbrite pad and alternating with rag or paper towels till I got surface rough off to get and idea of the degree of actual pitting. Most likely the worst pitting will be just above the top ring and space that is above piston when in position it sat for a long time. I could feel pitting with my hand/fingers and thought it was too far gone . I had a mechanic friend of mine come look and was surprised when he said it would probably be ok and may not even burn excess oil once the rings reseated. I would apply some liquid wrench or pb blaster or wd 40 etc to areas that have or had rust for now.

I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/Research-FLEX-HO ... 014&sr=8-1

and we used it to hone the upper cylinders with a battery drill to hone the pitted areas. We did not hone enough to remove the pits just to get area smoother and get rid of all flakey type rust. I cleaned out as much hone dust etc as I could then wiped some STP around the sleeves and reassembled. Get ready for a lot of oil smoke at first if you do this put the engine had normal power from the beginning and after about 20 miles the rings were seated and I can't tell it ever had a problem running it. It also hasn't been burning much oil only 1 quart or a little more between 3000 mile oil changes. If you do this I would change oil and filter 100 miles or so afterwards to try to get whatever hone dust may make its way down in to the lower end out. BTW if you need a hone I have a slightly used one. It is difficult to get to cylinder 4 with the hone but it can be done by more or less flexing the shaft of the hone.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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