2005 CRD head gasket replacement

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

In regards to fuel leak visually checked all connections with engine off and cold. Started engine and it ran fine at idle. Checked all connections on high pressure and low pressure side. No leaks at idle. Previously had leak at #1 injector where line attaches to fuel log with engine running at 1500rpm. Tightened nut about 1/4 to 1/2 turn and leak stopped. With engine running tightened line that attaches to fuel log at injectors #2, #3, and #4 all while engine was running at idle. Barely got 1/8 turn at each connection. Noticed connection at #1 injector was damp and went to tighten but barely unscrewed nut by mistake releasing pressure and engine stopped. Tightened nut at connection. Turned key to off. Unplugged fuel heater connection and noticed hot side of plug was brown. Pumped primer 4 strokes and fuel came out of plug socket. Didn’t try to start engine. Thinking a fuel pump and a filter next to tank with a line running directly to the fuel injection pump. Has anyone done this?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2020 7:33 pm

Don't do that - but you should think about replacing the fuel manager / filter head. That is an air leak IN, not a fuel leak OUT. For now - you don't need the heater, and it's obviously already burned and cracked the plastic. Spray out the socket with brake cleaner, let it dry, and fill it with any silicone you have laying around. This will stop the air/fuel leak there.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Geordi, cleaned fuel heater socket with brake cleaner, air dried and filled socket with silicone. Have minuscule leak on #1 fuel injector at 13mm fitting. Started engine, let warm up and test drove 10 miles. Engine runs well.
Next question is engine rpm is 2500 at 55mph. Is this normal and can it be changed to get a lower rpm at speed like 1800rpm at 65 mph?

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Also helper said he lined up hard line connections before tightening nut. So far only one connection leaked and was fixed with about 1/4 turn of the 17mm nut on #1 injector at fuel log.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 1:02 pm

daytona701 wrote:

Geordi, cleaned fuel heater socket with brake cleaner, air dried and filled socket with silicone. Have minuscule leak on #1 fuel injector at 13mm fitting. Started engine, let warm up and test drove 10 miles. Engine runs well.
Next question is engine rpm is 2500 at 55mph. Is this normal and can it be changed to get a lower rpm at speed like 1800rpm at 65 mph?

2500 at 55mph seems a bit high, what size tires are you running and is transmission going into 5th gear & lockup above 62 mph?

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Tire size is 225/75r16. Will check 5th gear lockup at 62 mph later today. What I want is tighter converter that uses engine torque just off idle. I’m used to my 2007 Dodge Cummins converter working just off idle. I drive that truck with a light foot because the torque is immediately applied to the wheels just off idle and the transmission shifts quickly through the gears with relatively low rpm. I’m just wondering what are the transmission tuning options with the CRD or if I need to do the transmission pump/converter and tune to get what I want. I also get some engine braking with the Cummins but not so much with the CRD.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 3:31 pm

daytona701 wrote:

Tire size is 225/75r16. Will check 5th gear lockup at 62 mph later today. What I want is tighter converter that uses engine torque just off idle. I’m used to my 2007 Dodge Cummins converter working just off idle. I drive that truck with a light foot because the torque is immediately applied to the wheels just off idle and the transmission shifts quickly through the gears with relatively low rpm. I’m just wondering what are the transmission tuning options with the CRD or if I need to do the transmission pump/converter and tune to get what I want. I also get some engine braking with the Cummins but not so much with the CRD.

First off, you need taller tires like 245/75/16's to help lower engine cruising rpm's. May need a small 2 - 21/2" lift kit to run taller/larger tires.
A transmission TCM tune will also be most helpful for better performance.

If you want the best torque converter to do what you desire, buy a SunCoast torque converter. It has the lowest stall speed and it built for the low rpm operation and braking abilities of a diesel engine. I have two of them, one in my Jeep CRD, and the other in my Dodge Cummins. They are bullet proof. You can search LOST as there is plenty of people posted their praise of the SunCoast TC.
Suncoast CRD-1ES TC is rated for: 600 ft. lbs. max (813 Nm) (1900 rpm stall speed)

Quote:

Question heavily whomever you plan to purchase your TC from as to construction, max torque ratings, warranty, etc....
"Billet" refers to the clutch plate drive surface (flywheel). It is the part that bolts to engines flex plate.
Billet offers much better heat dissipation so hot spots are not created or warpage does not occur, a much better clutch surface area that has less run out compared to a OEM steel stamping and the ability not to flex when clutches are applied. The greater mass of a billet TC also helps smooth out some of the pulsations of the diesel engine at idle.
You may find cheaper torque converters with billet covers but even though it has a billet cover it still can still have weak stock internals and poor construction. Price is based on construction! Cheap will usually be, single disk, stock stall speed along with phenolic or fibre washers and folded over fin construction. Some may have improved clutch materials, some may not.
The higher priced converters will use Torrington needle bearings over washers, fully welded construction including all fins, and lower stall speed, and multi disk friction clutches from a high quality supplier made out of materials like Kevlar

By all means if you drop tranny to install new torque converter, be sure and install a new front pump assembly. and here is why:

Quote:

These are some of the main reasons why you should replace the transmission oil pump assembly...
*Severe wear of the TC limit valve bore in the front pump housing results in loss of converter release oil pressure. Reduced release pressure at low speed and idle can drag the converter linings, causing engine surge, pulsation or stall.
*The torque converter limit valve spring in the 45RFE, 545RFE front pump can often break. This valve limits converter release pressure. A broken spring can cause the valve to become stuck and result in converter clutch release issues including engine stalls at low speeds.
*Chrysler vehicles equipped with 45RFE, 545RFE and 68RFE transmissions often experience TCC related troubles. These may or may not include trouble codes accompanied by TC clutch slip, no lockup, overheating and / or loss of fuel economy. In some cases, the TC clutches may be unable to release TC lockup, resulting in improper lockup functions and / or complete engine stalling. Problems such as these can be caused by excess wear in the TCC switch valve bore, which allows vital control pressure to escape the circuit. Replacing the complete transmission oil pump assembly with a new updated assembly or reconditioning the bores with the proper tools and installing an oversized TCC switch valve kit can restore crucial clearances for renewed TCC control and operation.

layback40 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 6:30 pm

daytona701 wrote:

Next question is engine rpm is 2500 at 55mph. Is this normal and can it be changed to get a lower rpm at speed like 1800rpm at 65 mph?

At 55 you should be under 2,000rpm.
When at that speed if you apply a little throttle on & then off does the rpm go up & down a few 100 rpm without the car speed changing? If it does the converter lock up is not working.
It should be doing just over 2,000rpm at 65.
Have you got the switch on the leaver set to OD on?

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Od switch is off. Drove about 30 miles today. 2500rpm at 55mph and 3000rpm at 65mph. Did not go into tc lockup. Notice that when take foot off accelerator rpms don’t drop and Jeep keeps going for some seconds before speed begins to drop. Can’t feel transmission shifting through the gears. Rpm flashes to 1400 to get moving from stop. Cruise control light comes on but cannot set speed for cruise control. Also second drive today ETC lightening flash light illuminated on instrument panel and engine rpm ran away while sitting at a stop sign. Immediately shutdown engine before damage could occur. Restarted and drove 1 mile back to shop. Accelerator pedal return spring is not working properly and takes a few seconds to return pedal to idle position. I don’t know but maybe cruise control not working, etc light on, transmission not shifting into overdrive and torque converter not locking up may be all related. Engine is running excellent. Used gunk engine cleaner and water to clean diesel fuel from engine bay. Maybe I got something wet that should stay dry. I don’t know.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Removed accelerator pedal assembly and dissembled. Oiled pivot and reassembled. Still as sticky as before so ordered a new pedal assembly from Idparts. Will take some time to get here as it is a special order. I’ll start there and see how it works.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:23 pm

OD off is your problem - if you have the orange light on the dash that says "OD Off" then hit the switch on the shifter, you are only in 3rd gear and that does NOT use lockup on the converter. There are basically no reasons to turn the OD off except when towing heavy and trying to climb a hill, wanting more RPM for lower EGT.

The transmission computer is more than capable of managing the shifting and with a diesel, you do not want or need high RPM for "power" b/c that is just wasting fuel - the power band is much lower, as you are expecting.

As you are accelerating, the last shift point (5th gear) should be at either 58mph OR 62mph on the speedo - tire size does not change these points, they are calculated from the speedo only. At the last shift point (58 is only for 2005 CRD pre-F37) you will feel the shift, see the tach drop to around 1800 RPM and at that point if you lightly increase or decrease the throttle, the tach and the speedo will react at the same time and rate. If the tach moves independently of the speedo, then you are NOT locked up.

Tips: These transmissions like being operated with an excess of fluid and can handle quite a large amount over. The dipstick is too long from the factory, and reaches too deep in the pan where it hits the bottom and turns, so "full" on the stick is actually about 2 quarts LOWER than the actual full mark should be. Lack of fluid pressure will affect the shifting and lockup performance. If you elect to replace the converter, Florida Torque Converters sells a "low stall" unit that is designed for the torque of the CRD. The Billet version of this may have a more aggressive vane angle and result in stronger torque transfer at low RPM - ask them about this, I'm not 100% on that. If the transmission is removed for any reason, take the opportunity to replace the front pump and upgrade the springs with the Sonnax shift kit for the 545RFE, this will increase the line pressure and shift firmness, and help the lockup performance.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Geordi, Idparts just shipped the accelerator pedal so I’ll have it in a couple days. The atf4 is 1 1/2 quarts over the full mark on dipstick. In test driving I’m sure the od was on but will check again on next test drive and report results.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 8:19 am

with overdrive on you should be able to accelerate to no higher than 65mph to get into 5th gear then you can slow down to around 59mph and still keep it in overdrive. Around here you will be near 1750 rpm . This is the best fuel economy point with no towing etc. With taller tires at the same setting you will be going faster but even with the max tire size of 32.1 inches diameter with lift kit less than 3 inches you can get that speed up about 11 percent or about 65-66 at 1750rpm.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Made a mistake on previous posts. All test drives were done with overdrive on. On one drive the overdrive was turned off at about 55mph with no change in rpm then turned back on. Just test drove with new accelerator pedal and that’s working fine. Accelerated to 65mph and held that speed with no shift into overdrive. Overdrive was on and engine at 3500rpm. Also cruise control is not working. There is a simple fix but I don’t see it.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Does the cruise control and transmission overdrive use vacuum to operate on the CRD? I have a fsm and one whole book pertains to transmission.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Checked doc and got the following:
PO605 Powertrain control module (rom error)
PO101 Maf
PO700 Transmission control system (mil request)
P1140 Egr throttle control circuit open
PO403 Egr control circuit
PO102 Maf low input
Maf is unplugged and have egr delete so what does PO605 and PO700 mean?

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

doc is supposed to be dtc on previous post. I see PO700 is generic for there is a tcm code your Innovate scan tool can’t read. PO605 pcm rom error is one I don’t understand. I washed the engine bay to get rid of the diesel fuel that sprayed from a loose hard line. I may have gotten water in a connection. Is the ecm and tcm integrated in the same box or separate. Does the ecm/tcm relearn after disconnecting the battery? So close yet so far.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:31 pm

The TCM and the ECM are totally separate units.
The TCM is on the far right side (passenger side) in the engine compartment mounted to the inner fender.
The ECM is is on the far left side (drivers side) in the engine compartment mounts to the inner fender.

P0605 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When the code P0605 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Powertrain Computer or PCM is failing its Read Only Memory (ROM) self-check and has found errors within its Read Only Memory functions. In many cases, the PCM is not getting a high quality, consistent 12 volt power or a ground signal. However in some cases, actual Memory modules are defective and the PCM needs to replaced and re-programmed. But, before you replace the PCM, be sure to check for any shorted output devices that may have cause the Memory functions to fail.
When diagnosing a P0605 code, it is important to record any other codes and the P0605 freeze frame data. Then one should duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive. Pay close attention to the engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed because a P0605 can be difficult to detect.

What the P0700 code means
P0700 is set when the PCM detects a malfunction in the transmission control system. This malfunction causes the vehicle to set a Check Engine Light and trigger a failsafe mode. Once the failsafe mode is set it will remain until the fault is repaired or normal operation is detected.
What causes the P0700 code?
Faulty transmission control module
Transmission valve body fault
Shift solenoid issues
Open or short in the wiring harness

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

WWDiesel, appreciate your response. Electrical problems started after reassembly of top and front of engine and after I washed the engine. I have very little experience in automotive electronics. I’m going to began working on these problems by doing the following:
Check battery voltage at rest and with engine running.
Disconnect battery
Check and clean all electrical connections in engine bay including grounds.
Reinstall battery and test drive.
Check for codes.
Can you recommend a cost effective code/scanner reader?

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Cleaned and tightened ground under tcm and over brake booster. Relocated ground behind driver headlight. Made 2 new ground wires for tcm and ecu/pcm from case to body. Checked 1 out of 4 plugs at tcm and main plug at ecm/pcm. Pins and sockets looked clean and dry. Visible parts of wire harness look good. Walmart battery is 4.5 years old and is at 12.4 to 12.6 at rest. With engine running alternator is 13 to 13.9. There may be a battery draw when the Jeep is sitting. Radio is on the way out. Everything else works except transmission. Cleared PO605 and tried to clear PO700. Warmed up truck for 5 minutes and test drove for 4 miles. Rpm is 2400/50mph, 2600/55mph and 2800/60 mph. Can’t feel or see transmission shifting. Had PO605 and PO700 at end of test drive. With hood up at end of test drive can feel more heat than normal. Air filter box lid was very hot to the touch. Any comments very much appreciated.

2005 CRD head gasket replacement

Who is online