Was the recall for the rear trailing arms? Did mine last fall after I finally got it back on the road after several years too.

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2005 Liberty CRD, with 135,XXX miles. Rockers, exhaust valves, Provent, EGR block & butterfly delete & V6 air box at 100K

1998 XJ 4.0L, stock with 130,XXX miles

First Jeep: 1962 Willys CJ-3B

That sounds right... it's a circa 2018 recall, and I seem to recall it's for the rear suspension. I hope that's the case - I really don't want anyone monkeying around anywhere near my beautiful engine bay right now!

I need to start getting the skid plates cleaned up and reinstalled. The forward one I will probably leave off for a while longer to monitor leaks, but the other ones can be reinstalled. I just don't want to put them back in covered with filth. (I feel like an idiot paying this much attention to a Jeep - I haven't cleaned the inside or outside of my Suburban in five years... but the Suburban is just dirty, not oily.)

I have "fixed" the factory electric cooling fan....

Turns out, when the AC system is empty (or under vacuum) it must push the pressure transducer into some error range, and the FCM turns it on full blast. This morning I vacuumed out the system again and recharged it, now the factory electric fan works properly.... on with the AC, off without it.

Unfortunately the AC system has a leak in the DUMBEST POSSIBLE PLACE ... the Shraeder valve on the high side. After vacuuming. after filling, I disconnected the gauge and found a slight hisssssss from the high side port. I tightened down the valve thinking it might help. The hiss stopped, but I don't trust it. I'll let it ride for now, but I'm sure I will end up replacing it and having to refill it before summer.

Not what I wanted, but could be worse. Who knows... by then the oil leak could be back and I'll be ready to drive it into the river.

They do make valve replacement tools so you can change thr Schrader without evacuating the system.

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2006 CRD Limited
Frankenlift Prem II, JBA UCA'a
Duratrac 265/65R17's on American Racing 17x8 Fuel rims
GDE Hot tune and Trans Tune
Euro TC RL037142AA
Rebuilt Trans w/Transgo 68RFE
Air Box Mod
BMW oil Sep
MRBP exhaust
F-104 Fumoto valve
Hayden fan clutch

Whoa! That's news to me... I just have a simple tool that would definitely evacuate the system. Looks like I got something to research! Thank you!

After charging the system so the fan would turn off, I took it in for a smog test... gotta do that before I can (finally) renew its registration. It's was about a 20 mile round trip, making this the first time it's done 20 miles at once, first time on the freeway, and as it was a beautiful day today, the first time running in >50F weather. This is what I've got on the bottom of the bell housing:



It's something, but *barely* anything. It does seem to keep getting smaller, but after 200 miles I'd kinda expect it to be gone. Maybe not... TBH, if it leaked like this forever I wouldn't care one bit. My only concern is that it's just a precursor of what's to come, but all I can at this point is wait.

Okay, does anyone know what kind kind of valve cores the CRD uses? Old-style Shraeder? Eaton? JRA?

So, obviously no CRDs at the junkyard. One '04 and one '06 V6... and this is what's in their high side port:



They look like standard valve cores, but oddly they are 5.1mm OD and 19.5mm long which makes them more like R12 cores than R134a cores. Not such what that means.

I bought this kit when I replaced my condenser, orifice line and dryer in my crd:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F12MXSY

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Gen2 Fuel Head - Magnaflow Exhaust - Ram transmission swap - In-Tank Lift Pump
Moab Wheels - 245/75/R16 LR E Cooper Discoverer AT3 Tires - OME Lift 790/90009 948/60069 - Etecno Glow Plugs - V6 Airbox
RUNNING B100
Pic of my Jeep!

Just replace with standard AC schrader cores then. And make sure you put proper caps on.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Yup, that's the plan. Bought the exact same kit as ebbnflow from Amazon last night... hopefully the leak is slow enough I won't have lost too much in five days. We'll see!

Amazingly, seems like keeping the plastic cap on the leaky valve was enough to prevent a pretty fast leak... second I took the cap off it was pssssssshhhhhhhht'ing all over the place.

I picked up this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KH93K/

and that Glarks valve core set and had it fixed in about 3 minutes.

Next up, hopefully my last order with moparpartsgiant for a while... a replacement CCV hose and a replacement turbo oil drain gasket. Pretty sure I'm still gonna be left with a weeping rear end (ick), but I can live with the current state. It's not what I want but it's definitely not worth starting over again. Next time I'm covering that stupid rear bearing carrier with sealant. I am sure it's what's leaking and not the RMS.

That is because the cap is the seal, not the schrader. The schrader allows service access.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

What? No. If you take the cap off it should not leak. The cap is only there to keep dust out.

Not in AC it is not...this isn't a bike tire.

"In refrigeration and air conditioning applications, the valve cap is considered to be the primary seal, with the Schrader valve only being used for service access."

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve






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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

The cap is the "primary seal" because it's the thing that keeps dust & dirt out of the system. It's the first (and most important) barrier from the outside in. It provides little to no function from the inside out. Take out the valve core, put 200 psi in the system, and see if that cap stays put. It won't. We wouldn't have crimped hoses and big flanges if a couple plastic threads were enough to keep the cold in.

Still have a slight leak, I'm pretty sure at this point it's not going away. It's an easily livable amount of leakage, literally a drop of oil. As long as it doesn't get (much) worse over time, I'd not lose any sleep. Still, disappointing. My best guess is that it's seepage between the rear bearing carrier and the block, something I could have and should have addressed with a little sealant but I assumed the factory o-ring would do the job. C'est la vie at this point.

I only log about 2,000 miles a year on my Suburban, maybe 2,500, and my plan right this second is to sell the Suburban and have the Jeep take its place for a couple years. The only thing holding me back is that the Suburban is sometimes called upon to tow a car, and I'm not sure the CRD is a good choice there. I know it has the power, I'm less certain about stability and braking. I'll need to get some data before making that call.

Given that nothing has exploded though, it was time to finish putting it back together... Since the (broken) grille is off, I polished up the forward lighting...



and then, since I haven't been able to find a used grille and $300 for a new one was non-starter, I fixed the existing grille to a good enough degree...





The rear left window has held steady, so I think that's solved, at least for now. I just need to remind myself to be attentive with the button I think. OTOH, I'm pretty fast at taking the door panel off and bending the glass lift bracket, so....

Next weekend I'll fix the other oil leak I have, from the turbo oil drain. I determined the GT20-series turbo shares dimensions with a TDO4, so I'm gonna throw a "heavy duty" composite gasket from a Saab 9-3 on there. Never had a Saab leak... from there anyway. (I also use Saab T3 gaskets on the T3 on my XR4Ti because the Ford gasket suuuuuuuuuuucks!

The final task for now is replacing the two front speakers as they're completely blown, then live with it for a while. If at the end of 2021 the leak hasn't gotten worse, I need to repaint or replace the front bumper cover and right front fender... they're pretty scraped up and it's not a good look.

Saab gasket installed, turbo drain leak seems cured. Interestingly, the "wings" on the Saab gasket won't clear between the two housings... the flange on the drain is a couple mm narrower than the Saab. Trimmed it with a utility knife, bolted it on, and leak has not reappeared in a couple days.

*Still* have a drip from the bellhousing, but I'm gonna assume at this point that's incurable.

Last night I ordered the various electrical components I need to build the fan controller... it's not been a priority as when ambient temps are 50F the engine never rises above 190F, so no cooling fan is needed at this point anyway. Not a long term approach, but it's fine for now.

Bought a pair of Infinity Reference 6.5" speakers to replace the totally shot front speakers. I went with Infinity because they're a weird 3 ohm speaker and include a cool adapter that fits perfectly on Chryslers. I removed the stock Infinity amps from the speakers, and attached them directly to the inner door panel - long screw, nylon spacer, and a nut:



It's very sturdy and saved me from having to modify any wiring. I *should* have made some adapters to go from the amp's speaker wires to the speakers as they're the wrong size, but eh, it was close enough. Then, install the adapters, drill four new small holes so the speaker is attached to the door and not a plastic adapter, and done.



Now I can actually listen to music AND diesel, so that's good.

This is taking forever but, eh, whaddayagonnado?

Using factory connectors plus a GT150 connector (to avoid confusion) I made a little Y adapter for the ECT.... so I can break out the signal from the sensor without disrupting the factory wire:



It goes where you'd expect:



I already built the fan controller, so next step is testing it to be sure it works, then figuring out a safe place for it to live. The cabin is really well insulated on these things! I'm having trouble finding a good place to bring the wires I need from the engine back into the cabin, and I'd really prefer to avoid drilling any holes!

Look under the fuel filter, there is a grommet in the firewall that comes through above the accelerator pedal.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.