Well, here I go... pulling the motor.

layback40 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2020 4:37 pm

geordi wrote:

I'm not familiar with the E4043 rods, but are these that Aluminum brazing rod thing?

They are stick rods that you use in an arc welder. Made by Blue Demon.
I new have some & will have to tidy up my old stick welder & give them a try.
There is plenty on google about them.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Got some more stuff done today - jacked the thing up so I could properly torque the five lower bell housing bolts and the lower motor mount nuts. Spin on an oil filter, plugged in various things from underneath (oil pressure, CPS, etc.) so I could call it quits down there.

I finished out by installing the updated fuel head.

I did not use the connectors supplied with the Mopar kit... instead I use Permaseal butt connectors... they are heat-shrink and adhesive lined so they provide an excellent connection...

I could not find any conclusive documentation in some quick searches regarding proper polarity for the updated heater connector. I presume it's just a resistive heater and it doesn't matter, but here's how it's oriented, with positive on the right (as you face it).

If someone knows something about the preferred polarity, it's easy to extract the terminals from the housing and swap their position.

The next steps on this thing will require (more) money - I need oil, a thermostat, and a new battery as I pilfered the Jeep's battery for an alternator/starter/battery upgrade on my Fiero a while back.

My intention is to add the oil, leave the injectors out and the fuel feed to the pump disconnected and run the starter for a bit to pump up the lifters, distribute oil and hopefully get pressure & check for leaks. I figure with no compression it should turn over quite readily/easily and make pressure pretty quick. It won't tell me anything about whether I fixed The Leak, but probably will tell me if I made any more.

And, maybe it'll give the valves a chance to fully seat. Once that's done, I think the rest of the work should go pretty quickly.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Nov 28, 2020 1:52 am

On the fuel heater, the red wire is positive and the black wire is the ground wire.
Don't believe it really makes any difference on the polarity, it is just a simple resistance heater element.

And, I have a new in the box OEM Mopar thermostat with gasket that I want to sell if you are interested.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I had the realization that my motorhome has the same battery as the Jeep, so over the weekend I pilfered it and threw it in... filled up, the sump, and ran the starter via the relay. (I could have used the key, but since half the engine isn't wired up, I didn't want to make the ECM mad) Nothing bad happened!

https://youtu.be/8mE9arD5f40

This is the second round of cranking it over - the first time there was a sudden change in tone as it went round, and I'm pressure that was oil pressure coming up and pressurizing the lash adjusters. It was tangible.

I repeated this process five or six times over two days - I just wanted to be sure the engine is fully lubricated before actually attempting to start it, and I'm hoping some revs will help the valves seat better. I may do another leakdown test, but I probably won't.

I may be able to finish it up this weekend, but it's a bit busy around the house. Also, I need to source a new chrome grille - one of the tabs on mine was in poor shape when I took it off (a YEAR ago) and I don't think it will survive being reinstalled. I *think* that is the last thing I need to buy. Well, a battery, because it can't keep the one from the motorhome.

Fingers crossed this worked!

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2020 5:28 am

thesameguy wrote:

I had the realization that my motorhome has the same battery as the Jeep, so over the weekend I pilfered it and threw it in... filled up, the sump, and ran the starter via the relay. (I could have used the key, but since half the engine isn't wired up, I didn't want to make the ECM mad) Nothing bad happened!

https://youtu.be/8mE9arD5f40

This is the second round of cranking it over - the first time there was a sudden change in tone as it went round, and I'm pressure that was oil pressure coming up and pressurizing the lash adjusters. It was tangible.

I repeated this process five or six times over two days - I just wanted to be sure the engine is fully lubricated before actually attempting to start it, and I'm hoping some revs will help the valves seat better. I may do another leakdown test, but I probably won't.

I may be able to finish it up this weekend, but it's a bit busy around the house. Also, I need to source a new chrome grille - one of the tabs on mine was in poor shape when I took it off (a YEAR ago) and I don't think it will survive being reinstalled. I *think* that is the last thing I need to buy. Well, a battery, because it can't keep the one from the motorhome.

Fingers crossed this worked!

Your ongoing reports are inspirational!
You could always pop rivet a piece of Aluminum on to fix the tab.
O have removed the tabs that hold the lid on the starter relay on most cars of mine. Then I can just lift the lid & press down on the flapper.
Nothing wrong with sharing batteries. You cant drive 2 at once!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I don't wanna have to reprogram electronics!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Put a little time in today, mostly tightening nuts and bolts but I did get the fuel system all set up. I cranked the motor over a bit more to circulate fuel around, which is when I discovered I had neglected to put the rail return hose back on... I found that by pumping diesel out all over the driveway. Oops. Got that sorted out, cranked it over some more, and everything sounded & looked good.

It's then I realized I completely forgot to order the rest of the parts for the AC - a new accumulator, new orings, new seals. Dammit. Now I'm trying to sort through the fiche to figure out what's what... Yet again, I find errors in Chrysler's documentation which means I'm going back and forth between '05 and '06 documents so I can piece it together. Bah.

Edit:

Cripes! Replacing all these o-rings is bad enough, but there are these little soda can tab shapes seals that go between the hoses and components called "seals" that cost a bloody fortune!

3x 05072140AA seal @ $7
3x 05139486AA oring @ $4
3x 05139487AA oring @ $4
3x 05174115AA seal @ $13

This replace everything on the accumulator, condenser, and compressor.

Condenser
05174115AA seal
05139487AA oring
+
05174115AA seal
05139487AA oring

Compressor
05174115AA seal
05139487AA oring
+
(05072140AA seal) -not indicated, which is weird
05139486AA oring

Accumulator
05072140AA seal
05139486AA oring
+
05072140AA seal
05139486AA oring

The reason I want to go through the AC system is that it was opened when I got it, and now it's been open for several years. I just don't wanna do things twice. But Christ, this is $100 worth of BS!!

I noticed rockauto has "rapid seal kits" that seem to include all these orings and gaskets... does anyone have any experience here? I'm tempted to order one (they're <$15) even if it just nets me the seals... $24 in o-rings I can ultimately stomach...

krb · **Posted:** Sun Dec 13, 2020 7:14 am

Been there, done that.

I bought my KJ from the insurance company after my dad totaled it on a suicidal deer.

My AC sat open for 2 years (ends taped up though) until I got it all back together. I bought the Rockauto kit and took it to a trusted mechanic to clean/purge the system and recharge. The kit must be for MANY different vehicles as I still have several dozen o-rings and tab shaped gasket things. I assume the kit worked because he made no comment otherwise.

That was back in the spring. I don't use the AC much but it's working so far.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Dec 13, 2020 12:44 pm

Rock Auto PN's for the AC Seal kits:
All are listed for much less than $20
GPD 1321295
FOUR SEASONS 26761
UAC RS2604

Kit also listed on Amazon:> https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-267 ... B000C2Q1O0

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jee ... kits,13290

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Yeah, but I worried about them being correct ... Rockauto's kits for a Saab 9-3 have sod all to do with a 9-3... Only two or three of the orings are the correct size, leaving you with a bunch of useless leftovers and still needing a ton. It's just a generic "european car oring kit."

If krb had good experience I'll go for it. I need the accumulator anyway, so that's two birds with one stone. If I still need to supplement with Mopar parts, at least I won't be spending piles of cash on little metallic seals!

krb · **Posted:** Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:04 am

I got the GPD 1321295 for $6.83 plus shipping. It looks just like the picture WW posted. If my guy used different seals he didn't mention it and it didn't cost much. I'll try and find the bill...

Plus now I just figure I have extra o-rings in case I need them for something.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Cool, ordered the same thing along with a new accumulator. I'm thinking I will probably at least order the two (three?) "special" red o-rings direct... No idea why they are red, but for $10 or whatever it's not worth fretting about.

Rockauto says delivery this week, so maybe I can do the bulk of the work this weekend. After the AC, it's just the front end that needs to go back on.

I still need to find a replacement grille - rockauto shows $300 for a generic replacement. The previous owner(s) did some paint damage to the front fender and bumper, so I think I will probably hold off on the grille, make sure it runs right, then focus on the cosmetics. Grille, fender, bumper, and ideally a new driver's seat as this one is pretty ripped up. I'm sure at that point I will remember the stereo is wrecked and/or the speakers are blown. But it'll be nice to drive around without marking my territory and being able to focus on comfort & aesthetics.

I'm probably putting the cart before the horse though... who knows if it'll even start. WHO LOVES MYSTERIES??

krb · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2020 6:42 am

Red o-rings? That at the accumulator?

I picked up a junked gasser repo for a parts vehicle to replace my bumper, grill, fenders & hood.

You have a pull-apart near you? BTW - where are you, this gasser has a decent (but stained) drivers cloth seat.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Both of the orings I ordered are indicated as red, and the ones I have are red

05139487AA - O RING, A/C Line, 1/2 inch - Red, Discharge Line to Condenser

05139486AA - O RING, A/C Line, 5/8 inch - Red, Suction Line to Compressor

I don't know why they're red, what that signifies. Maybe nothing!

The fact that they are red caught my eye, though, and in general I don't like to stray too far from factory specs unless I really think I know something they didn't!

We have lots of self-service junkyards here, but SUVs get picked over fast, and finding front end parts is often a challenge. I'm in no hurry, though, so I'll see what comes my way. If in three months the truck is running great and I haven't found anything cheap, I'll probably be okay with putting some additional coin in to get it right.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 18, 2020 12:47 am

thesameguy wrote:

Both of the orings I ordered are indicated as red, and the ones I have are red

I don't know why they're red, what that signifies. Maybe nothing!

The fact that they are red caught my eye, though, and in general I don't like to stray too far from factory specs unless I really think I know something they didn't!

The O ring color is supposed to indicate what they are made from. The ones made of Chineseium can be any color.

krb · **Posted:** Fri Dec 18, 2020 6:27 am

That's what I was thinking. Did some quick searching and like you say, that was the intent but now it looks like you can get any material in any color apparently.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I'm not sure if there is an actual 'universal standard' for o-ring color. I know that typically HNBR are brown or black, and Viton/FKM are green, but I don't think there's a *rule* that says they must be... not like the Federal government has standards for automotive fluids (man, I miss ATE Super Blue!).

BUT, Parker does have ChromAssure

https://www.parker.com/literature/O-Rin ... assure.pdf

and it would make sense to me that a manufacturer like Chrysler would either use someone's system OR invent a system of their own to prevent confusion. Saab, for example, has black, green, and yellow o-rings for specific applications (water, AC, oil) and I'm positive that it means something.

So I bought the proper Mopar "red" o-rings so I can be confident my refurb AC system will be 100% and not require further attention. It's not worth saving $20 if it means I have to work on it again.

Unfortunately, that means more delays. I got the order with the seals & accumulator from rockauto the other day, but I'm still a few days out on the order from moparpartsgiant.com with the o-rings.

This weekend I need to drag out all the bigger parts, like the cooling core and front end parts to figure out the best order to put it all back together. And I'm going to work at least a little big on an electric fan option. I emailed ffdynamics several days ago about their part, but if they can't be arsed to even email me back I'm not sure how interested I am in giving them $300. I'll take some measurements and then talk to Mishimoto.... when I needed an electric fan for my modified XR4Ti, I simply sent them the dimensions and they found something very close.

It's a fan & shroud combo for an NB Miata, but it's within 1/2" of PERFECT for the XR... I think the Jeep's radiator is pretty square, so I'm betting they can dig up *something* they already make that's really close.

Speaking of, I've been simultaneously working on a major transmission upgrade for the XR, so it's not like I don't have plenty to keep me busy.

Nothing beats working in the garage on these balmy 50F days.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I emailed Mishimoto to see if they've got something, also found this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-381556

It's about 3" too tall, but I think I can fix that without too much trouble.

Still looking, but I probably gotta, you know, do something about this.

krb · **Posted:** Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:37 am

Remind me why you're not using the original radiator? This is a loooong thead...

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I'm keeping the radiator - there's nothing wrong with it. I'm looking for a shroud to use with an electric main fan. There's nothing wrong with my mechanical fan, either, but it's a royal pain to work around, and I'm up for regaining a couple HP by dumping a full-time parasitic loss.

The radiator is 21" tall and 20.25" wide... which is frustratingly both very large and very not square, so finding something prefab is proving elusive.

Well, here I go... pulling the motor.

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