New rockers, how to lubricate?

krb · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2019 6:24 pm

I've got everything stripped down to the head. Letting the turbo bolts soak, I only see two but the FSM says 4? I guess there are two more down below? I know I don't need to pull that to do the rockers but I'm pulling the head to remove a broken glow plug.

The FSM also says to lube the new rockers and I remember reading a post where one member soaked them, Is this done in regular engine oil? And to lube the rockers can I just use regular wheel bearing grease or does it need to be something special? I've not opened the IDParts box yet, they may have instructions for the rockers enclosed, I'll do that tonight.

The FSM also said to store the lifters upright. I assume this is to keep them from draining out all the oil? I didn't read that part until they sat horizontal for 24 hours, can I just soak them too?

Many thanks,

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2019 8:49 pm

I let mine sit in a bucket of motor oil for a while.

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2019 10:55 pm

Proper lubrication of any internal part, especially if threaded, can save you a ton of wear that might occur on dry start otherwise. If you're doing any kind of tensioned bolts, etc., use something like this: https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-bu ... embly-lube

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Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:54 am

Yeah, I use coffee can of motor oil for a good while and assembly lube on the rollers, which may also help you from knocking a rocker off on the reassembly

turblediesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 3:47 am

Soaked mine in motor oil in a clean cottage cheese container for a little while, pumped the lifters, and drip dried a few seconds before installation so it didn't run excess oil off the top of the head. Also used a dab of assembly lube on top of each valvestem to hold them in place.

I cut some 2-3" pieces of different diameter plastic conduit and used them as spacers to keep the cam/intake assembly off the rockers until it was positioned. I think 3/4" and 1" OD on the conduit. Rest them against a head bolt, or nut; not a rocker. Worked great. You can eyeball all the rockers from the front with a bright light before you lower it.

Clock the exhaust cam notch to about 2:00 and the intake notch at about 8:00 and the lobes will be more out of the way.

krb · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 6:44 am

OK thanks. I'll soak 'em in motor oil and get some assembly lube.

Good tip on the conduit spacers. I have a bunch of pvc scraps laying around.

I checked with the mirror last night and found a hole with no bolt on the bottom turbo mount but still that only totals up to 3, but there is 4 right? And how in the heck do you all access them??? I broke the top rear free but can't even figure out how to get a wrench, let alone a socket on them. Do you all use stubbys or something???

krb · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 7:41 am

First observation was that it was going to be easier to pull the head with the exhaust manifold, hence removing the turbo. Is this the easier route? Those bottom manifold bolts look harder to get to than the turbo.

Or should I pull the head with the manifold AND turbo and then break it all down? The oil return line is well hidden too...

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:42 am

The lifters are only filled with oil by pressure - they are pressurized hydraulic lash adjusters. So soaking them in oil is a waste of time, especially with the new design that is much closer tolerance internally. They will be pressurized by the oil when the engine starts, no need to do anything with those. The rollers also don't usually get anything, I've done both ways - dry and drooled 5w-40 or gear oil on them, same results either way.

Now for deep engine parts (main and rod bearings and such) go wild with gear oil. You can't use too much. Cover everything.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:29 pm

You can use Engine Assembly Lube on any moving parts when assembling an engine. Put a little on the cam lobes to prelube the rocker rollers for startup.
It protects metal to metal moving parts during the critical dry start time period until oil pressure fills everything and starts lubricating the critical parts.
Real Good stuff and available in different brands at most any auto parts store like NAPA or Autozone.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:38 pm

You guys got me reading...

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/0 ... and-lubes/

So, I think this guy is saying I should switch from assembly grease to plain oil on the rollers?

Also, I'm not taking any chances on the rods and mains, and I guess I'll switch to the heavier oil that I use in my cummins. The FSM calls for regular motor oil.

What do you guys use for rods and mains (diesel)?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:44 pm

Mountainman wrote:

You guys got me reading...
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/0 ... and-lubes/
So, I think this guy is saying I should switch from assembly grease to plain oil on the rollers?
Also, I'm not taking any chances on the rods and mains, and I guess I'll switch to the heavier oil that I use in my cummins. The FSM calls for regular motor oil.
What do you guys use for rods and mains (diesel)?

Oil does not stay on parts like assembly lube or lite grease does.
As to rods and mains; before assembly lube came along, built a many an engine using white lithium grease and never had a bearing failure during the startup of a rebuilt engine.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:46 pm

krb wrote:

OK thanks. I'll soak 'em in motor oil and get some assembly lube.

Good tip on the conduit spacers. I have a bunch of pvc scraps laying around.

I checked with the mirror last night and found a hole with no bolt on the bottom turbo mount but still that only totals up to 3, but there is 4 right? And how in the heck do you all access them??? I broke the top rear free but can't even figure out how to get a wrench, let alone a socket on them. Do you all use stubbys or something???

Yup, there's 4. They are easy compared to the turbo drain tube. I just use regular 3/8" sockets and a 13mm wrench. Yeah, pulling them attached to the head is much easier, but you'll want to use a shop crane, or destroy your back and turbo drain. But you still have to pull the turbo oil feed, and egr tube.
There's a 8mm bolt hidden on the back of the head also.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2019 1:51 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

You guys got me reading...
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/0 ... and-lubes/
So, I think this guy is saying I should switch from assembly grease to plain oil on the rollers?
Also, I'm not taking any chances on the rods and mains, and I guess I'll switch to the heavier oil that I use in my cummins. The FSM calls for regular motor oil.
What do you guys use for rods and mains (diesel)?

Oil does not stay on parts like assembly lube or lite grease does.
As to rods and mains; before assembly lube came along, built a many an engine using white lithium grease and never had a bearing failure during the startup of a rebuilt engine.

The NAPA assembly lube I use looks like white lithium grease, and like to separate, I should probably replace it.

krb · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:22 am

All good info, thanks for the replies.

From the article it sounds like assembly lube is still good to use (except on the rollers!) - just makes sure it dissolves in oil, which seems like a no brainer to me but I guess there must be some out there that don't. I need to re-read to make sure it all sinks in.

Got the drain tube off last night, now onto the turbo mounting bolts...

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:41 pm

I put grease on top valve stems to help hold rockers in position. I did soak in same oil I use in engine for at least 4 hours but doubt its necessary. I used pure STP oil additive as an assembly lube this stuff is super slick and just try to hold a screwdriver by tip after its been dipped in this and its fairly thick. I think most any thick / sticky grease that will fully dissolve in oil would be fine its just tp prevent dry run initially.

I know you have already started removing turbo but my preference is to remove manifold the bolts are not that hard to get to except for two and just be patient with 1/4 inch breaker bar and 12mm or 13mm socket and you would be surprised (thanks to papa indigo for that hint long ago) ( note some of the manifold nuts I have received in kits ,pretty sure from ID parts are 12mm) . It will still help to loosen or remove the bottom turbo support bracket bolt.

It is almost impossible to knock the rockers off when replacing the valve cover if you use two or three bolts ground to correct length in front and toward back of the head to guide it on.

krb · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:39 am

I just now looked at my new rockers and they came with lifters - duh. I figured I was reusing the old ones...

You guys that work on these motors for fun are masochists. I'm down to the one turbo bolt and/or the two inner most manifold bolts. All of which are impossible with the tool supply I have...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2019 4:53 pm

krb wrote:

I just now looked at my new rockers and they came with lifters - duh. I figured I was reusing the old ones...

You guys that work on these motors for fun are masochists. I'm down to the one turbo bolt and/or the two inner most manifold bolts. All of which are impossible with the tool supply I have...

Can't get those manifold bolts until the turbo is off.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2019 8:10 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Can't get those manifold bolts until the turbo is off.

On my last teardown I left the turbo attached to the manifold, worked really well since the turbo/manifold bolts are also hard to get to. Was able to get in there (top middle nut) with a socket on the end of a 3/8" breaker bar. I believe the rest were accessible with some sort of extension configuration.

krb · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:53 am

So fool4wheelin, you pulled the head with the exhaust manifold & turbo attached?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2019 8:31 am

krb wrote:

So fool4wheelin, you pulled the head with the exhaust manifold & turbo attached?

I always pull the head with manifold and turbo attached. I also reaaasemble with it together. I just make sure I eat my wheaties that morning

New rockers, how to lubricate?

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