High presure fuel pump

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:15 pm

Glad you got it fixed. Hopefully they already found out why the fuse blew. I know from experience that a bare wire or a blown fuse can cause some pretty weird things at times :pepper:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:42 pm

Glad to hear it. You should get a cheap meter and then you can check every fuse in the jeep in 5 minutes in the future. A cheap harbor freight multimeter will work. Maybe $10.
Just google "how to ohm out a fuse" if you're not versed

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2020 11:37 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Glad to hear it. You should get a cheap meter and then you can check every fuse in the jeep in 5 minutes in the future. A cheap harbor freight multimeter will work. Maybe $10.
Just google "how to ohm out a fuse" if you're not versed

This is one of the best and most effective ways to test fuses while they are in service. Simply turn the key on and check both sides of the fuse for power.

And less than $20 bucks on Amazon. Will be some of the best money you ever spent.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3633-Mini-co ... C46998V7TV

OTC 3633 Mini-Coil Cord Circuit Tester

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hello all,

Looks like I have had the same issue happen to my 2006 CRD. We have just had a week of cold weather where temps were @ -30c. I keep my jeep in the garage and always have the block heater plugged in when I am at work. Driving home from work, it just quit. No lights, no warnings.

Had it towed home and is in my garage. Put heaters on it and left it for a day to warm up. I read up on this thread and others and have done the following:

Checked fuses, all ok. Not sure on the relays as I dont have a meter, but will pick one up if needed.

Bled the fuel filter while priming it. That seemed ok.

I took both lines going to the filter off and turned the engine over, but dont get any fuel out of either line. Not sure if that is a symptom of anything or not?

Just wondering what I should do next before taking it into the shop? We do have a CRD knowledgeable mech at the dealership, but would like to avoid taking it in if its something I can do on my own.

The local temps are above zero now so not sure if frozen lines/fuel is the problem, but who can know for sure.

Looking forward to hearing back from all of you to see if I can get Gibby (green + Libby) going again.

Cheers!

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:08 pm

When turning over the engine does the tach move? With the way it shut off it sounds like a cam sensor issue but I like to test prove repair so it’s purely speculation, I don’t just swap parts till it’s fixed so I will have you do a few tests to pinpoint the issue. So let’s start with the rpm signal to the tach

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2020 12:09 pm

Quote:

I took both lines going to the filter off and turned the engine over, but dont get any fuel out of either line. Not sure if that is a symptom of anything or not?

From the factory, the CRD didn't come with a fuel pump in the tank.
There is only a suction pump on the engine.
So, by disconnecting the fuel lines at the filter and cranking the engine, you cut off the fuel supply and allowed air into the fuel system. You will have to prime and bleed the fuel system again.

Is the check engine light on?
Scan for codes and report them here.
They are a huge help for diagnosis.

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

[quote="My66dodge"]When turning over the engine does the tach move? With the way it shut off it sounds like a cam sensor issue but I like to test prove repair so it’s purely speculation, I don’t just swap parts till it’s fixed so I will have you do a few tests to pinpoint the issue. So let’s start with the rpm signal to the tach

So I turned it over this morning and, yes, I get some rpm on the tach. What next.

As for the codes, I don't have the tool to read codes. How would I go about getting what is needed? No check engine light. No indications what so ever.

Thanks again.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2020 9:52 pm

Well without access to a scan tool to check data I will need to think for a minute... I am so use to having data... brings me back 15 years trying to do stuff without it

You are sure all the fuses are good though

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Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hi there,

Yes, all the fuses are good. The relays, I am not so sure. I swapped out some with the help of my father in law, and we could hear a click sound when we turned the key prior to turning it over. Are the relays mechanical or solid state? How do I test to see if the relays are good?

The other thing we checked when we turned the power on, there seemed to be a missing hum or buzz that wuold normally be there piror to the start, that being the fuel pump? Should I be hearing that sound?

What does the RPM reading on the Tach rule out?

Thanks again for the assistance. Thinking I might need to tow it to the shop, but would great if we could trouble shoot a bit more.

Cheers.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:06 am

Since it was running and it died that rules out relays in my mind because when relays fail they just don’t turn on after being turned off, I have never seen one quit when on, inside is an electromagnet that turns on a switch basically. The rpms on the dash confirms the crank sensor is good but that’s not a super common failure anyways. If it was fuel supply issue it would have lost power and slowly died but since it shut off abruptly it tells me electrical. I will check a diagram today and let you know where to go next. Do you have a DVOM?

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Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hi.

To say it suddenly died or slowly died would be difficult. I just know the were no warnings about it failing. Wish vehicles had a fuel flow infusion.

Since I am not sure what a DVOM is, I won't have it.

So I can be clear, is there a stand alone fuel pump ( priming pump ) on this vehicle? I think I may be confusing it with the high pressure pump.

Thanks again.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 21, 2020 2:29 pm

Adanac wrote:

Hi.
To say it suddenly died or slowly died would be difficult. I just know the were no warnings about it failing. Wish vehicles had a fuel flow infusion.
Since I am not sure what a DVOM is, I won't have it.
So I can be clear, is there a stand alone fuel pump ( priming pump ) on this vehicle? I think I may be confusing it with the high pressure pump.
Thanks again.

DVOM = Digital Volt/Ohm Meter or some call them Mulit-Meters.
An inexpensive 12 volt test light can be your friend when testing circuits and fuses.

As to the fuel pump, from the factory these vehicles did not come with any kind of stand alone (priming) feed or lift pump. The high pressure CP3 injection pump has to suck the fuel all the way from the fuel tank and through the fuel filter head and filter in stock configuration and any tiny leak anywhere in the system will cause air ingestion into the fuel which ultimately causes air in fuel issues.

Many owners like myself have retrofit/installed a lift pump inside the fuel tank by replacing the factory fuel tank module with a Dodge diesel fuel tank module that contains a low pressure lift/feed pump.
Other than replacing the fuel tank module, no other changes are necessary to make this work other than than having to add two additional wires from under the back seat to the top of the fuel tank to supply the in tank fuel pump with power. These vehicles come from the factory already wired to a connector under the rear seat and a relay, and the proper logic in the ECM to operate the in tank fuel pump.
Some simply install a lift pump somewhere between the fuel tank and the fuel filter head and wire it to the existing connector under the rear seat. Not as clean or as good as the in tank pump, it will work and is better than not having a lift pump.

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hi,

Turns out I do have the multi meter. Just never heard it referred to it that way. So, I'm ready for the next step....

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 22, 2020 11:30 am

Easy thing to make sure fuel related or not . Remove line from fuel head toward the engine stick a small funnel in it (make sure to keep crud out and everything is clean) Pour diesel in the funnel and leave the funnel in the line , Turn it over you may have to add some more fuel after a few seconds . if its fuel supply line related it should start after cranking for may be 15 seconds or less but I would try it a few times with strong battery. I know it seems like it should start with just a little fuel but a lot may be returning to the fuel tank. I learned that lesson running one on a 5 gallon tank for minute or 2.

If it doesn't start that doesn't rule out a fuel sensor etc problem but much less likely in your situation. A crank position sensor would probably be next most likely cause and doesn't always throw Check engine light but it usually starts when cools but not always by any means. Corobot chicken has a you tube video on checking the CPS with VOM.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Wed Jan 22, 2020 11:33 am

Sorry it takes me a while to get back sometimes since I own a repair shop and also I’m a mechanic I lead a pretty busy life with that and the wife and kids at home so I’m not always able to put as much time into other things like forms that being said you’re going to want to put the red lead + of the digital voltmeter on the middle wire of the cam sensor use a pin and back probe it, then stick the black lead - on the negative battery terminal, stick the voltmeter on volts have somebody turn the engine over while you’re watching it to see if any kind of voltage signal comes out, you want to make sure you have a signal it should bounce around between 5v and 0v

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Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hi There,

I did what you both recomended and still had no luck. Due to the fact that I have to earn a living by driving to work 80 km a day, I had the Jeep towed into the shop. Turns out it was worse, much much worse. They found one of the cylinders had very low compression and after further investigation, we found and injector along with other metal in that cylinder. Long and short of it, I need a new engine along with injectors. A bill that looks to be far higher than the cost to replace the entire vehicle.

I will be posting another thread right away to ask about selling this vehicle for parts, but want to thank you all for your input. It has inspired me to learn more and more about the business end of my vehicles and I will be making an effort to be more hands on in the future.

I will miss this jeep which I have been driving for the last 10 years and put on over 200,000 km on. It was so much fun to drive. Hopefully, there is another jeep in my future.

Kind Regards,

Ian

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 12:27 am

Sadly thats in the mileage range that I and several others have had a valve drop causing piston damage and head damage and sometimes cylinder liner damage. It probably only damaged one injector and several here Geordi comes to mind has some used injectors reasonable but it would be a lot of work to pull engine to replace piston and reassemble but head and injector and gaskets you could probably do for about $750 not sure about cylinder.

Are you in north america ? Generally we thought the export CRDs had better valves.

High presure fuel pump

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