P0193

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:50 pm

Reference FYI

I've been getting P0192/P0193 codes intermittently for a while
I kept thinking it was a filter/fuel head problem

I'd change it and it would seem to get better and then come back

however I stumbled on some troubleshooting flash7210 did
so I went out and wiggled the wires - that was it - instant P0193
looked at the wire bundle and realized it was bumping against the fuel line incoming to the filter.

quick band-aid - taped the bundle so it had room to flex but wouldn't hit anything - amazingly no problems - everything works
actually considering the change - I may have been getting intermittent signals - not enough to trip the CEL - but enough to confuse the computer.

best fix would probably be to replace the engine wiring harness - but I'm not sure they're available.

Flash - Thanks for the help.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:02 pm

Posting some pictures of the location and repair may help some others. :wink:

Billybob · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:02 pm

Major job to replace a harness!

Unwrap all the covering around the suspect area so you can inspect the individual wires for damage and then hopefully you can wrap insulation tape and Duct Tape around the wires and all is well again.

If not, check the Wiring Diagrams and place a Digital Multi-meter on the suspect wires to check for continuity from end to end while wiggling them around and with all ends disconnected...there may be multiple splices....check that there is no continuity to chassis at all. This continuity to chassis could be caused by a wire scraping to chassis or multiple wires shorting to each other!

Make sure you do not touch the meter leads with your bare hands while measuring resistance as your internal resistance will affect the readings.

A good trick is to tape thin pins or needles onto the ends of your probes so as to penetrate the insulation to make your measurements...you can melt or glue the insulation holes together after the repair is done.

If the harness disappears into some unreachable area you may have to cut off the offending wires at all ends and replace them with new wires...taking the shortest route.. This gets more complicated if there are multiple splices on the affected wire! Mark the wiring diagram with your changes for the next owner of your Jeep.

Today I have literaly done about the 12th repair on the wiring on my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD...not the Jeep's fault...the wiring was damaged in a frontal dispute with a tree although the last few problems have been right back near to the Battery or the Firewall :shock:

I can see these problems becoming more common as our Jeeps age :cry:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 3:17 pm

You can always open up a harness, locate the bad or damaged wires, cut the bad sections out and replace with new wires using heat sealed crimp on connectors.
Much, much cheaper and easier than trying to replace an entire wiring harness.
If you don't have a heat gun, you can use a common hair dryer on high to shrink and seal the connectors.
Done this many, many times over the years....

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:20 pm

I’m glad someone has learned from my trials and errors.

No need to replace the whole engine harness.
Just splice in a new connector.
You can use the crimp connectors.
Or if you’re really paranoid, solder the connections.
Or if you’re lazy like me, just twist and shrink wrap.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:19 pm

I have some of the connectors that contain solder inside of shrink wrap that are supposed to be used with hot air or propane etc but haven't used them yet . Depending on brand they have had mixed reviews think some can be crimped too .

Here is the best way I have found to twist the wires for use with shrink tuning works pretty good more reliable than wire ties . You could also use the push in connectors these work pretty well and you can put shrink wrap on whole connector mainly for insulation since one end not well sealed.

On the video link skip to about 4:30.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHoyF4yKhjU

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 11:48 pm

If you don't use heat sealing shrink crimp connectors and simply twist two wires together, you should always solder them together and then use heat shrink tubing to properly seal the connection.
If you don't seal up a connection, over time moisture can attack the connection and cause it to corrode and if that happens the high resistance in the connection can cause it to overheat and fail.
You would not believe the number of botched and improper wiring jobs I have had to cut completely out and totally redo correctly. :shock:

Billybob · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:19 am

WWDiesel wrote:

If you don't use heat sealing shrink crimp connectors and simply twist two wires together, you should always solder them together and then use heat shrink tubing to properly seal the connection.
If you don't seal up a connection, over time moisture can attack the connection and cause it to corrode and if that happens the high resistance in the connection can cause it to overheat and fail.
You would not believe the number of botched and improper wiring jobs I have had to cut completely out and totally redo correctly. :shock:

This is what I do, twist and solder the wires and then slide shrink tubing over the joint and heat carefully with a heat gun. :wink:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2020 3:28 pm

I had to relearn how to post photos -
my old photobucket imageshack accounts were dead - although Google photos seems to work.

The sensor with the issue is middle of the rail
I just brushed the wires about an inch from the connectors and it triggered the error.
the engine and wiring bundle seem to vibrate slightly and the fuel line is stationary
no obvious wiring issues - I suspect it's the connector
it has been running great for about 200+ miles

Well - photos worked on the Desktop - but are not showing from the laptop - although the link data still says it's there?
will play some more

P0193

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