Bleeding my car

Chuci · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 8:04 pm

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and for some reason i have to keep bleeding my car because air keeps getting in. I am going to check my fuel lines to see if there is any holes or to see if they have been put on correctly to check. Is there any other reason that this could be happening? (Also If I don’t bleed it, the car will shift really harshly)

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foxmiles · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 8:27 pm

Probably the best solution is an in-tank fuel pump. The whole fuel system from the tank to the CP3 pump is suction (all the lines, the filter head, everything), so it will be very hard to find leaks, as air can leak in where fuel won't leak out. Unless it's a very big leak you probably won't find any fuel as there's no pressure in the supply line. Most common leaks are the fuel head, especially at the electrical terminals for the fuel heater, and any o-rings on the quick connect plastic fuel lines. To make matters worse those quick connects were apparently designed for pressure, not suction. Also sometimes the rubber seal on the fuel filter sticks to the housing and people end up with two by mistake, which prevents the filter from sealing properly.

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/ - In-tank fuel pump guide

Chuci · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:05 pm

foxmiles wrote:

Probably the best solution is an in-tank fuel pump. The whole fuel system from the tank to the CP3 pump is suction (all the lines, the filter head, everything), so it will be very hard to find leaks, as air can leak in where fuel won't leak out. Unless it's a very big leak you probably won't find any fuel as there's no pressure in the supply line. Most common leaks are the fuel head, especially at the electrical terminals for the fuel heater, and any o-rings on the quick connect plastic fuel lines. To make matters worse those quick connects were apparently designed for pressure, not suction. Also sometimes the rubber seal on the fuel filter sticks to the housing and people end up with two by mistake, which prevents the filter from sealing properly.

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/ - In-tank fuel pump guide

i replaced my fuel head a while back and I just checked to make sure all the clamps are tightened and I checked the hoses connected to the fuel head.
Is there any way to know if the in-tank fuel pump is bad?

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TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:34 pm

There is no in- tank pump unless you installed it . That is why it is suggested to install an in tank pump which is best fix but easy quick fix would be a lift pump installed such as the facet pump which can be placed under battery tray and would take less than an hour to install there are many posts about it on LOST.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:44 pm

Also just to save some effort you may be able to just pump the fuel head and not actually bleed it to get it going. Just less hassle if it works till u get more permanent cure.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:51 pm

Here is a link to discussion of lift pumps on LOST. Mostly for non in tank pumps,
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=58378&hilit=facet+inline+lift+pump

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

One of my CRD's had the same problem a few months ago. The fuel line had a pin hole rusted through the metal line above the rear axle. It didn't leak much fuel, but would suck air in when running.

I cut out the rusted area and put a compression splice in place. However, when doing this, I wiggled the press on connection where the steel connects to the plastic line. It then began sucking air in at this connection.

My ultimate solution was to drop the tank, remove the plastic line, install a rubber line from the tank to the steel line. Used a stainless worm clamp to attach to the tank and another at the steel line.

To your problem: you either have a pin hole in the steel line, or it is sucking air at the plastic press on fitting (there are actually two of these: one on top of the tank and one behind the axle to connect to the steel line).

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:10 am

I did the Delphi pump for a 06 ram 2500 with Cummins and got a gasser pump harness from the junk yard, swapped the sending unit pin locations on the harness since they are different on the gasser at the connector under the seat and it works great, I even found out that while it wasn’t causing issues the primer seal was leaking fuel afterwords so what was just a simple upgrade showed that the fuel filter head was getting old. It is an easy job (if you have a shop with a lift and tranny Jack) but a real pain in the arse if you have the fuel tank skid plate like all mine do cause it takes 2 people to put the skid plate and hitch on since they use the same bolt holes

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TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:17 am

all good suggestions but only 30 minutes and about $60 for facet pump in front which could be beneficial anyway. Then look at metal line etc unless you find it by quick inspection. I plan to try removing the access hatch covering material in rear and replacing line or pump on one of mine that way eventually.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 11:23 am

The only issue with the pump in the front is it is still sucking through the line as opposed to the in tank pump so you can still aerate the fuel which is bad for diesel injectors and the injection pump

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 11:57 am

^
That is true.
But I’ve been using the Facet 40109 for about 10 years.
It has a check valve.
And I have a clear glass fuel filter at its inlet.
It always keeps the main fuel filter under pressure and fuel has never drained back out from the inlet filter.
It appears to hold everything good and tight

iakj11 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 1:01 pm

I'm only one year in on the Facet in the engine bay, but so far so good here too.

snowballs · **Joined:** Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 85

Struggling to get the black fuel filler hose to disconnect from the white fuel tank inlet on a 2006 Liberty.

Don't want to break the white plastic fuel tank inlet or cut the black fuel filler hose.

Clamp completely loose but hose won't budge. :banghead:

Any wisdom / ideas?

Thanks in advance

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

snowballs wrote:

Struggling to get the black fuel filler hose to disconnect from the white fuel tank inlet on a 2006 Liberty.

Don't want to break the white plastic fuel tank inlet or cut the black fuel filler hose.

Clamp completely loose but hose won't budge. :banghead:

Any wisdom / ideas?

Thanks in advance

I put a transmission jack under the tank, removed the bracket bolts and lowered it slightly. Lowering it slightly will put a little tension on the filler hose. If you can twist it and pry with a screwdriver at the same time it should break loose. Otherwise you may have to take it loose at the filler port and then pry it apart when you get the tank on the ground.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2020 4:31 pm

Slide a real small screwdriver in between the rubber and the plastic and carefully work it around under the rubber to loosen the seal. Once you do this it should slip off.

snowballs · **Joined:** Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 85

Thanks very much for the tips guys.

Did they glue these together?

Would silicon spray help? All we have here is PB Blaster but afraid it would eat the plastic.

On another topic; how does the black plastic clip on the two fuel lines unlock?

We put a small screwdriver in the side slot and the locking pin depresses but the clip stays closed.

Another hour of life we won't get back

Getting close to Happy Hour so it looks like the Jeep wins this round for today :JEEPIN:

Mayhewr · **Joined:** Sat Nov 25, 2017 3:26 pm **Posts:** 8

I used the Ram diesel in-tank pump and have no hard starting issues... Starts up instantly

Bleeding my car

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