Thanks I thought it was a little higher than that from youtube videos on other vehicles that i watched when I had a battery drain that was ultimately from frayed wire near the thermostat sensor wire crossing valvecover.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Glad to help!
Once you have done all of the above and if it still draws to much current when at rest we will need to connect the battery up and use the multi-meter to measure inline with all of the BCM outputs one at a time to see which output path is drawing power.

For example the BCM may be trying to set your Alarm system after all doors are locked but there is a slight short on that line going to the Alarm system. Great fun but I can assure you most Dealers will not be able to find this problem...a good Auto Electrician with the wiring diagrams supplied could probably do it!

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2002 Export CRD

Hi again!
Last night after work I had a little bit time (and day light..) to work on it
I removed the C1,C2&C3 connectors one by one and I measured the draw..
C1 disconnected-0.17A
C2 disconnected-0.13
C3 disconnected-0.09A (I'm disoriented because C3 in wiring diagram for mine don't suppose to have a load, only the export have the siren circuit on fuse #34!...). I have to go back and remove again the fuses from GB and measure the draw.
Interesting was that after I put back the connectors and I measured the draw, one measurement was 0.17A and one 0.09A!... alternating every second measurement was 0.09A... When I got 0.17A I kept holding for few minutes but didn't drop...

.

OK are you saying that disconnecting C1 and C2 basically did not reduce your current draw much..you still had between 0.17A and 0.13A being drawn?

I would cut off the Red wire at C3 pin 30, leaving about 2 inches of wire to connect back again if needed.
Insulate both cut-off bits of wiring. That wire going out of C3 pin #30 could be shorting somewhere so lets get rid of it as this should only be used for Export Models.

If now pulling out Connectors C1 and C2 does not really drop the current draw much then you need to start measuring the outputs of the BCM. The BCM is probably trying to activate something and there may be a partial short on that particular line.

My 2002 KJ has pretty worn tumblers at the ignition switch so I can pull the ignition key out by mistake in the ACC position....this caused me current draw so I have to be careful to make sure that I do not go to the ACC position before pulling the key out!

I will get back to you regarding measuring the BCM outputs....is yours a Premium Model?

8W-45-1 shows all the BCM outputs.....this is not going to be fun

You mentioned earlier Fuse #5 for the TCM.....have you checked that area again? We do not want to mess around with the BCM when there is a short going to the TCM in the meantime.

If you get a large current drop with engine OFF and you pull out Fuse #5 in the PDC, put fuse back in and pull out the Transmission Control Relay and see if the current draw drops again...should not, if it does try swap this relay over.

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2002 Export CRD

I didn't have time to work on it, I hope I can do it over the weekend.
Thanks

Hello,
I didn't too much time to work on draw issue lately. Last time when I cheched the current draw went down to 70mA but I noticed that the remote lock/unlock doesn't work. Everything else works...
If weather will allow I'll spend some time on my driveway working on it...Plenty of time now that 50% of Ontario is in layoff ...
I hope all you guys are well
Take care!!