Gypsy62 wrote:
BillyBob:
Any chance you could post a pic of the ECU on your '02 Export? Your written description would greatly benefit from an accompanying image. That would also confirm whether the ECU's connectors are similar. Postimages.com has worked fairly well for me; download your image then select "Hotlink for forums" and then paste into your 'Reply' @ the thread.
Also curious which wires you had to replace, exactly.
Thanks!
Separately, I spoke with the tech at Kennedy pumps today. Along with basically saying that Liberty CRD drivers are idiots, he went through the priming process:
- Remove power to the pump,
- Use a manual primer to draw fuel through the entire line, both pre & post pump,
- Restore power to the pump, and it should rage like a garden hose (his words).
I had already insured that it was fully-primed in previous tests on/off vehicle, but the direction to remove power whle priming was news. Anyway, following his instructions to the tee and still just whirring, no flow.
I disassembled the pump, visually-inspected the impellor and O-ring, surfaces... all looked okay, no wear or damage. While apart, I supplied 12vdc and visually-confirmed rotation.
He insists that if it spins, it pumps, and that I am screwing-up the priming procedure.
Enough of this finicky f##$%g pump! Tomorrow, I'm dropping $175 at a local shop for a simarly-rated, but SELF-PRIMING Carter inline replacement and will provide the model# and report results.
I LOVE burning cash on my jeep
Sorry but I am too old to work out these dang new fangled photo apps that can magically send pictures all the way over to the USA!
But if you are using the 2005 Jeep KJ Service Manual as available at:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/Then on page 8E-16 Electronic Control Modules you will the picture of the ECM Electrical Connector in Fig 16 item #1.
This shows the large top connector, C2, on top of the smaller connector C1...they are not joined together...C2 lifts upward and C1..harder to get to....drops downwards.
Arrow 1 is pretty much pointing to the black plastic section that has been pulled upwards to send the connector sliding backwards to disengage from the pins on the ECU.
C1 works the same except you have to push down on the black plastic section.
If you cannot get it right disconnect the battery and unbolt the ECM Mounting Bracket.
Years ago my GF drove my 2002 Export CRD into a tree that jumped in front of her...damaging the front end slightly and the Left Front Fender. On this model...maybe because it is a RHD...the main cable harness travels right around the whole engine bay, goes through several connectors, travels under the radiator in a square metal tube and returns to almost where it came from. A distance of 12 inches from the ECU to the Power Distribution Box (PDC) travels about 6 feet around the whole engine bay.
Between the collision damage and the idiot Panel Beaters welding the front end...many wires up front would eventually rub through to another random wire next to it or would rub through to chassis. For instance if I turned ON the front Wiper...the +12 volts would steadily go up to 17 volts at which time the engine would chime and cut out. I had to cut the suspect wires off at both ends...including splices.. and replace with brand new wires..this time taking the short cut.
I also recently had to change the one wire going the short distance from the MAP sensor to the ECU as it was showing some continuity to chassis even when completely unplugged at both ends. This was totally not involved with the collision but these old Jeeps are starting to have the wire harnesses slowly rubbing through to chassis or to other random wires.
Fortunately I know my Electronics so have been able to trace and replace about 13 wires so far.
I have marked my changes on the relevant wiring pages and leave it inside the Jeep for the poor New Owner of my Jeep to find one day!
If you have suspect wiring you need to follow the wiring diagrams and for that particular wire color eg. BL/WH... means Blue wire with a White stripe....you need to disconnect all components connected to it...including all splices...so that wiring circuit is floating in mid air.
You should then be able to measure all points end-to-end for good continuity but there should be no form of continuity to chassis as that means a short to chassis or a short to some other random wire. Unless you can physically unwrap those wire to inspect them you will need to replace them!