Crank no start

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

Hey guys I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L crd limited I have had it for about a year now and has been off the road more then it has been on. Recently it was driving fine drove it for about 4 hrs on the weekend went to get in it to go to work on the Monday and she didn’t want to fire up crank so start now it has been in the mechanics for about 4 months now and they can’t even work out what is wrong with it we have replaced allot of things including SCV fuel head fuel filter all the computers got sent away for bench testing to find out the gateway module was fried so they got a new one of them put it all back together hoping that was the cause with no luck they have tested the pressure in the fuel rail and there was very little pressure they then tested the injector pump and that seemed to be delivering enough fuel and pressure they said they have checked all sensors like cam and crank and they recon they are fine but I’m not 100% on that any ideas on what it could be causing this crank no start is it a mixture of mechanical and electrical has any one had this issue before also FYI I have already spent $6000 fixing it prior to this problem with transmission and cooling problems

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 6:43 am

Could be something as simple as a blown fuse.
The ASD fuse is common and so is the ASD relay.

If the check engine light is on, we’re gonna need to know the trouble codes.

Billybob · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 9:18 am

Yep definitely need the CEL codes so as to know where to start looking.

Could be the Cam or Crank Sensor.

Dealers and most "Mechanics" are useless....need to ask for advice on this Forum and the other KJ Forums! :wink:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 1:56 pm

Agree with above and also not sure how they got a new front control module since they are not made anymore I have yet to see anyone send off an ECU and get it back functional when it was not functional before. not that it couldn't be related to poor connections with ECU or sensors etc.

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

There is no engine light and no codes I got a hold of a Jeep parts dealer in Harvey bay and they got me a gate way module for $300 they sent away the BCM gateway modular and the TCM and ECU and bench tested them all super cooled the gateway module and it work untill it heated back up so they replaced that they checked all mechanical and it all looked fine they then looked at electrical and obviously not to great at that side of things replaced a few things and went back to mechanical and fuel delivery it started up with starting fluid sprayed in to the air intake and that’s where they got with it I’m looking at buying the cam and crank sensors to put in next week if that doesn’t work what else are we looking at car was driving perfect before I parked it up over night

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

Also all relays and fuses checked out fine

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:00 am

Bad crank sensor normally sets a code....bad cam sensor normally does not.

Worth replacing both.

Fuel problems such as a blocked fuel filter does not post a code.
I had a bad fuel filter...on a long trip the engine would die with no code posted.

Start it up again and could carry on then it would die again....getting worse as I went along.

At my destination I replaced the fuel filter and been running fine since then.

You need to check high pressure fuel is getting to the injectors. :wink:

At the left of your cluster there should be a Red LED for the SKIS anti-theft system.

Check if this LED is working by exercising the Cluster:
Hold the Odometer Reset Plunger In while turning ignition ON.
All the gauges should go back and forth and all the cluster lamps should light up...check that all lamps are working!

If when you are cranking the engine this Red LED flashes or is ON all the time then there is and issue with the SKIS anti-theft which we can explore! :wink:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:07 pm

Agree with above advice. I am not sure however that bad cram sensor usually trips a code . Just from personal experience I have had 3 crank sensors go bad on 3 different CRDs and only one of the three tripped a CEL. The good thing is when it did trip a CEL the code pointed to only the CPS. Out of 4 running CRDs for an average about 180k miles and 1 running for several years I have yet to have a cam sensor go bad but it is easier to replace. I have also seen many here replace the cam sensor thinking it was the cause of their problem and honestly I don't remember but a handful find it was actually the problem and numerous finding it wasn't the problem. I would think a good quality diagnostic tool could detect a bad cam sensor but I don't have one so I do not know. There is a thread when I had what I thought was a fuel problem where Fast outline some tests that helped me and there is a diagnostic flow chart in the downloads of Papaindigo in the CRD tech section that may help some on this .I think it was also linked in a fairly recent post. I will try to find the fuel post I referred to.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:43 pm

Here is link to the thread about verifying lack of fuel flow etc you probably only need to read the things flash suggests about the sensors
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90291

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 2:12 pm

Here is the Fuel diagnostic algorithm :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HRaB ... zZTUy/view

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:17 pm

TKB4 wrote:

Here is the Fuel diagnostic algorithm :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HRaB ... zZTUy/view

Very nice Flow Chart! Adding an intank fuel pump or inline fuel pump would eliminate about 75% of the checks.

As to the Crank Sensor; when mine crapped out, it never set a DTC (CEL) even when it put me on the side of the road.
So you cannot count on that, but the symptoms experienced are mostly the same when it goes bad as reported by LOST members.

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

So it does have a inline fuel pump and the fuel to the fuel head is reading about 5 bar

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2020 9:20 am

Jacob115 wrote:

So it does have a inline fuel pump and the fuel to the fuel head is reading about 5 bar

5 bar to the fuel filter?
Are you sure?
That would be about 70 psi. Which is too high. 10 psi is the recommended max. 5 psi would be adequate.
I don't know of any kind of lift pump that would supply 70 psi pressure.
With what kind of gauge are you using to read pressure?

Do you have a way to read fuel RAIL pressure?
Usually its with a type of OBD scan tool.
If you are reading 5 bar at the fuel rail, that is definitely TOO LOW.

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

Sorry that was my bad yes 5psi not bar and I have a obd scanner but doesn’t read the rail pressure at the mechanics it was low pressure but couldn’t find why they thing it’s some where between the fuel pump and injector pump they replace the SCV with no luck

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 03, 2020 8:37 am

What do you mean by SCV?

Jacob115 · **Joined:** Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:07 pm **Posts:** 6

Suction control valve on the back of the injector pump

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2020 4:34 am

Jacob115 wrote:

Suction control valve on the back of the injector pump

Fuel Quality Solenoid -- PN 5159962AA
(preferred name)
Sometimes listed as:Fuel Control Actuator or Fuel Pressure Regulator
Location: Back of CP3 Injection Pump

Cascade/Overflow Valve -- Bosch PN: F00N200798
Location: on side of CP3 Injection Pump

Crank no start

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