Transmission cooling line

krb · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2020 7:07 am

Somehow, while sitting still doing nothing, my trans line decided to spew a leak at the crimp where it goes from hard line to rubber hose.

I assume these are under no more pressure than any other tranny hose? So I plan to cut the crimp off and just slide the hose over the line with a hose clamp, assuming I have enough slack. Anybody see why this wouldn't work?

I looked at my parts gasser and the lines/cooler appear to be different.

Thank,

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

krb wrote:

Somehow, while sitting still doing nothing, my trans line decided to spew a leak at the crimp where it goes from hard line to rubber hose.

I assume these are under no more pressure than any other tranny hose? So I plan to cut the crimp off and just slide the hose over the line with a hose clamp, assuming I have enough slack. Anybody see why this wouldn't work?

I looked at my parts gasser and the lines/cooler appear to be different.

Thank,

If you cut the crimps properly and leave the ring intact on the line, with proper trans cooler line hose and good fuel line clamps you should be OK !

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2020 1:36 pm

IF you replace the rubber line, be sure and use transmission rated oil line hose. It is designed for the higher pressure and temperature than regular rubber hose.
I highly recommend "Crimp" type clamps over cheap screw clamps that tend to loosen over time and leak. See picture 2
I have seen, and had to repair, when some owners replaced their hose with regular gas line hose. It will last for a very short period until the heat weakens it and it bursts. :dead:

Should be similar to this:
Hayden Automotive 106 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose

Crimp Type Hose Clamps

krb · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:30 am

I'd planned on trying to cut it and leave the ring or lip on. I'll give it a try and be sure and tighten the clamp good.

I've seen those type crimp clamps but not the tool that does them.

No telling if those lines are still available, and if so how much. I guess I could get NAPA to make a replacement hydraulic line.

Thanks guys,

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2020 2:08 pm

You can buy the crimp type clamps at most hardware stores or building supply stores in the plumbing section, or online at Amazon. I buy them in the bags of 10 at Lowes.
They come in different sizes.

Any "END" nipper type pliers can be used to crimp them. Just be careful and not over-do-it.
End nipper pliers are available at Harbor Freight, Hardware stores, and building supply stores or you can order them online.

krb · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2022 2:06 pm

Sooooo, I ended up replacing both lines just to make sure it was done right. That was 2.5 years ago.

I noticed a new leak and the culprit is the "new" line where it enters the transmission. :furious:

Looks like there is a plastic piece inside the nut around the hard line? I replaced this as a unit, but like I said, that was 2.5 years ago and I don't remember how this seals. What does the plastic collar do? It was loose and there's a steady drip of tranny fluid. It popped back into the nut a little when I pried it but there's still a healthy drip.

Can I just back off the nut and "re-seat" this plastic collar thing or ???

Thanks,

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2022 2:24 pm

krb wrote:

Sooooo, I ended up replacing both lines just to make sure it was done right. That was 2.5 years ago.
I noticed a new leak and the culprit is the "new" line where it enters the transmission. :furious:

Looks like there is a plastic piece inside the nut around the hard line? I replaced this as a unit, but like I said, that was 2.5 years ago and I don't remember how this seals. What does the plastic collar do? It was loose and there's a steady drip of tranny fluid. It popped back into the nut a little when I pried it but there's still a healthy drip.
Can I just back off the nut and "re-seat" this plastic collar thing or ???
Thanks,

Can you post a picture?
Is it a metal line fitting screwed into the transmission case or a Hose Fitting like this:

krb · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2022 5:30 am

I don't know how to post pictures but it looks like this:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 8&jsn=3067

I had forgotten the little spring clip part and it doesn't show the plastic sleeve. I'll explore a little more on it this evening maybe.

krb · **Posted:** Tue Dec 13, 2022 6:23 am

Wrong again.

After looking closer last night, that fitting above isn't it. Being a Luddite, my on-line searches don't come up with anything that shows what the connect looks like or how it works.

I'm pretty sure this is what I purchased, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 1&jsn=3071 but that was almost 3 years ago and I don't remember the installation process. But then again I don't remember what I did last week...

Best I can figure, until I take it apart again, is the nut slides onto the hard line, then the plastic sleeve. The nut is tightened down squeezing the plastic sleeve against the flare and thus sealing it.

I'm guessing the sleeve popped out, even though it looks just like the other line connection - which isn't leaking. I was hoping to find what I needed to reseal so I could just R&R but looks like I'll need to take it apart and then see if I can find what needs replaced. With my luck that plastic sleeve can't be purchased separatly and I'll have to redo the whole line...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 13, 2022 12:41 pm

krb wrote:

I don't know how to post pictures

See this:> viewtopic.php?p=952299#p952299

krb · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2022 5:32 am

Sometimes I can be pretty dense. Once I finally got to take the line apart, the fitting is in fact like I first posted, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 8&jsn=3067. The nut with a spring clip that holds the flared hard tube in place. The plastic sleeve I saw turns out to be the collar that pops over the spring clip to hold it in place.

Once I got it removed it turns out there is an o-ring inside the nut to help seal the fitting. I suspect that thing is what must be leaking.

krb · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2022 6:03 am

Thanks for the image posting tip BTW. I'll have to get my daughter to help me...

krb · **Posted:** Wed Dec 21, 2022 7:49 am

Well with all the 545 transmissions on the road how can the coolant line fitting be non-existent? Every place I've been (on-line & in-person) they are backordered. The two places that had them were both the next size up even though it said it was for my vehicle.

Decided to refresh the o-ring in my old one and after three more places I finally found the right size o-ring and replaced that to no avail. Still the steady drip.

So, I suspect it is a cracked line (like I first thought but wanted the cheap & easy way out to work). It kinda looked like I could see a faint line and seemed to "feel" it with my fingernail when I first investigated but I was hoping it was just a ridge.

These rockauto lines were only 2.5 years old and maybe had 20,000 miles on them but I guess the diesel vibration did it's thing to the hard line connection? Now I'm looking at $340 for a new set of lines from IDParts, hoping they're better quality and will last longer. Merry Christmas to me...

krb · **Posted:** Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:46 am

New lines came in from IDParts, a much better quality than what I got earlier from a popular on-line parts source. Hard lines look & feel a heavier gauge and the rubber part is a larger OD. Most obvious difference was fitment. The IDPart popped right in and laid like factory. The unit it replaced I had to bend and tweak to get it right and it looked it. Twice the money but it was worth it.

Should have heeded my own advice (buy the cheapest farm gate and replace it every couple of years or buy one good bull gate and be done!) and spent the coin for a quality part in the first place...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

krb wrote:

New lines came in from IDParts, a much better quality than what I got earlier from a popular on-line parts source. Hard lines look & feel a heavier gauge and the rubber part is a larger OD. Most obvious difference was fitment. The IDPart popped right in and laid like factory. The unit it replaced I had to bend and tweak to get it right and it looked it. Twice the money but it was worth it.
Should have heeded my own advice (buy the cheapest farm gate and replace it every couple of years or buy one good bull gate and be done!) and spent the coin for a quality part in the first place...

So true!

Cheaper is not always less expensive in the long run. Reminds me of the great torque converter debate, buy once and cry once; in the end, you get what you pay for....or don't. :juggle:

JDaPP · **Posted:** Thu Jan 19, 2023 8:56 am

How many feet of hose do I need for this?

krb · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2023 6:47 am

To run hose instead of hard lines? Without measuring I'd say roughly 8-10'. I can measure the lines I took out to know for sure.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2023 10:01 am

That is what I was thinking too, but if you don't mind measuring I would appreciate it.

krb · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:17 pm

Looks like probably 5.5' each so I'd buy 12' just to be safe.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:30 pm

Thank you.

Transmission cooling line

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