Who has best price on arp stud kit

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

I’m wondering why the hell this little 4cyl has head studs that cost as much as the big v8s?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:55 pm

Jett wrote:

I’m wondering why the hell this little 4cyl has head studs that cost as much as the big v8s?

Because it is a VM Motori diesel engine. Anything for this engine is expensive! :banghead:

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Support your local forum sponsors!

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -crd-4044/

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -2-8l-crd/

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

I’ve decided not to do the head studs for the moment. My tune is relatively mild and I’ve been enlightened a little as to why the oem use tty bolts and i now know there are reasons they do and down sides to rigid studs.

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

weeks101 wrote:

Support your local forum sponsors!

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -crd-4044/

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -2-8l-crd/

Man this forum has sponsors and yet we can’t post pics on here? That’s unfortunate. Pics make every post better. Yes I’m aware about hosting services and I’m over all that doo doo and not interested. Photobucket did the world a huge disservice and should not be supported in any way, and I don’t trust any of the other ones for the same reasons.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:06 pm

Jett wrote:

I’ve decided not to do the head studs for the moment. My tune is relatively mild and I’ve been enlightened a little as to why the oem use tty bolts and i now know there are reasons they do and down sides to rigid studs.

And what exactly are the "downsides" to studs? The factory uses TTY bolts because they can be installed by a machine that doesn't need a torque sensor requring constant calibrations, the stepper motors can be set for a certain angle and it will always hit that angle on every install.

HOWEVER in operation on this engine, the heat cycling WILL cause the factory bolts to either weaken or back out (same result) and lose clamping force, and the 2500+ psi of combustion pressure will push out through the layers of head gasket and into the water jacket, pushing the coolant out through the overflow port. Low coolant alarms are the first indication of this leak, and once it has happened (and it will) the soot from combustion will also travel into that gap between the gasket layers and holds it open - allowing the coolant to migrate back into the cylinders when the engine is off (pressure in the coolant system but not in the engine) and resulting in oil contamination.

The studs resolve ALL of these issues. After working on over 110 engines, most of which have gotten the studs (anything that received more of my services than just a basic timing belt) NOT ONE has come back reporting a reoccurance of the leak. NOT ONE has reported any downside to having the studs in the engine. Many hundreds more engines have had studs installed by their owners, and I have again not heard of a single engine with any negative report of any kind about use of studs.

I was not involved with the engineering discussions around development of the stud kit when it was originally conceived and worked out with ARP, only coming on board as the first installer and reporting findings back to the original member who developed the upgrade. The factory clamping force is about 17,000 PSI, the studs as we are using them are putting down about 19,000 psi and are (from ARP) at about 75% of their elastic range for the fastener. WELL WITHIN the capabilities of the materials.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:41 pm

These studs are cheap! You should price out the ARP 625 studs I use at work in all my Cummins builds... then get back too me!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

My66dodge wrote:

These studs are cheap! You should price out the ARP 625 studs I use at work in all my Cummins builds... then get back too me!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why don’t you just save us all a little time and tell us since you clearly want to.

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

geordi wrote:

Jett wrote:

I’ve decided not to do the head studs for the moment. My tune is relatively mild and I’ve been enlightened a little as to why the oem use tty bolts and i now know there are reasons they do and down sides to rigid studs.

And what exactly are the "downsides" to studs? The factory uses TTY bolts because they can be installed by a machine that doesn't need a torque sensor requring constant calibrations, the stepper motors can be set for a certain angle and it will always hit that angle on every install.

HOWEVER in operation on this engine, the heat cycling WILL cause the factory bolts to either weaken or back out (same result) and lose clamping force, and the 2500+ psi of combustion pressure will push out through the layers of head gasket and into the water jacket, pushing the coolant out through the overflow port. Low coolant alarms are the first indication of this leak, and once it has happened (and it will) the soot from combustion will also travel into that gap between the gasket layers and holds it open - allowing the coolant to migrate back into the cylinders when the engine is off (pressure in the coolant system but not in the engine) and resulting in oil contamination.

The studs resolve ALL of these issues. After working on over 110 engines, most of which have gotten the studs (anything that received more of my services than just a basic timing belt) NOT ONE has come back reporting a reoccurance of the leak. NOT ONE has reported any downside to having the studs in the engine. Many hundreds more engines have had studs installed by their owners, and I have again not heard of a single engine with any negative report of any kind about use of studs.

I was not involved with the engineering discussions around development of the stud kit when it was originally conceived and worked out with ARP, only coming on board as the first installer and reporting findings back to the original member who developed the upgrade. The factory clamping force is about 17,000 PSI, the studs as we are using them are putting down about 19,000 psi and are (from ARP) at about 75% of their elastic range for the fastener. WELL WITHIN the capabilities of the materials.

You’ve put 100 sets of studs in? That’s a lot of head gaskets. How many were this engine or what engines?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2020 3:27 am

Jett wrote:

You’ve put 100 sets of studs in? That’s a lot of head gaskets. How many were this engine or what engines?

I've worked on over 110 CRDs - this is the ONLY vehicle I work on professionally. Not all of those were head gasket jobs, some were just a timing belt and some were studs / rockers / glow plugs (installing the studs one at a time). The studs can be installed without removing the head IF the engine passes the cold test and doesn't have a head gasket leak YET. But once the leak presents itself, you have to do the gasket too, the studs won't close up that gap.

I figure I've installed probably around 80 sets of studs now, and of that, probably around half have been with a head gasket and valves too. There have been a lot of valve jobs.

NOT ONE has come back with a head gasket leak or a subsequent valve failure after the valves have been replaced. If the engine is closing in on 200k miles, it REALLY doesn't make sense to skip doing the valves, b/c they have proven themselves to be a design weakness that is far more than a statistical blip. Yeah it's more work and parts... But when it is done, if all the upgrades are done at the same time, the engine is bulletproof for the life of the truck. That's saying something.

layback40 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2020 7:08 am

geordi wrote:

I've worked on over 110 CRDs - this is the ONLY vehicle I work on professionally. Not all of those were head gasket jobs, some were just a timing belt and some were studs / rockers / glow plugs (installing the studs one at a time). The studs can be installed without removing the head IF the engine passes the cold test and doesn't have a head gasket leak YET. But once the leak presents itself, you have to do the gasket too, the studs won't close up that gap.

I figure I've installed probably around 80 sets of studs now, and of that, probably around half have been with a head gasket and valves too. There have been a lot of valve jobs.

NOT ONE has come back with a head gasket leak or a subsequent valve failure after the valves have been replaced. If the engine is closing in on 200k miles, it REALLY doesn't make sense to skip doing the valves, b/c they have proven themselves to be a design weakness that is far more than a statistical blip. Yeah it's more work and parts... But when it is done, if all the upgrades are done at the same time, the engine is bulletproof for the life of the truck. That's saying something.

geordi,
Have you any customers that have done over 200,000 miles on replaced valves?
I am wondering if replacing the valves makes the problem go away or will it be an ongoing issue with high mileage CRD's.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2020 8:35 am

Jett wrote:

My66dodge wrote:

These studs are cheap! You should price out the ARP 625 studs I use at work in all my Cummins builds... then get back too me!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why don’t you just save us all a little time and tell us since you clearly want to.

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-4824-arp-ca625-diesel-head-stud-kit-985-18-59l67l-dodge-cummins-247-4204.aspx

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

My66dodge wrote:

Jett wrote:

My66dodge wrote:

These studs are cheap! You should price out the ARP 625 studs I use at work in all my Cummins builds... then get back too me!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why don’t you just save us all a little time and tell us since you clearly want to.

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-4824-arp-ca625-diesel-head-stud-kit-985-18-59l67l-dodge-cummins-247-4204.aspx

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Jesus that’s absurd. They must actually be made of the fabled unobtanium

My66dodge · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:22 pm

They are made in small batches and are the STRONGEST bolts made! I have sold many sets, when you start to make big power numbers like a Cummins worthy of a fire ring job you need them to keep the head down...all the sled pullers and serious Dyno guys run them, I use them in the 6.7 Cummins to avoid the head lifting and I put them in with the head on... done it MANY times... long lasting fix and you can take the 08-12 6.7 Cummins to the 500+ mark without pulling the head, after that you need the gdp pro gate to drop the exhaust back pressure or you blow the gasket anyways... the kJ crd is a relatively cheap diesel to build on, do arp head studs and upgraded valves and arp connecting rod studs and ceramic coat the head and valves and pistons and exhaust manifold and have fun that’s my recipe I am building in my spare time to drop in my dd... you can’t spell the word diesel or performance without a few dollar signs

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:40 am

layback40 wrote:

geordi,
Have you any customers that have done over 200,000 miles on replaced valves?
I am wondering if replacing the valves makes the problem go away or will it be an ongoing issue with high mileage CRD's.

That would be an engine approaching 400k miles... No I am not aware of anyone who is close to that, but as these valves are still the same as stock - the upgrade is in prevention of the damage in the first place. If they have to be replaced every 200k miles... Well that IS a lot of mileage! Most of these CRDs have taken 12-15 years to get to that point, so if they are still in service in another 200k miles or the same time period.... I'm more impressed that the rest of the BODY lasted that many miles! The rest of it is still a Chrysler product after all.
Deleting the EGR eliminates the major source of high temperatures in the cylinders, we already know that under stock valves and stock setups, they can go 200k miles or 300 billion cycles. That doesn't seem like a bad deal to put the same ones back in for another 200k miles. These aren't OTR trucks running 200k a year after all.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:53 am

My66dodge wrote:

the kJ crd is a relatively cheap diesel to build on, do arp head studs and upgraded valves and arp connecting rod studs and ceramic coat the head and valves and pistons and exhaust manifold and have fun that’s my recipe I am building in my spare time to drop in my dd... you can’t spell the word diesel or performance without a few dollar signs

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Do tell us more!
At the moment you have 1/2 the KJ CRD owners in the world watching their screens in anticipation that you have discovered the holy grail for these engines!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:30 am

not sure about the best price but here is a good price for the ones originally used for the CRD before the kit was made up you have to buy 2 ten bolt kits meant for TDI Volkswagon then you have 2 bolts left over many used to sell the extra 2 for about $20 each but now probably no-one trying to get 8 or 18 that way. I ended up buying 4 pairs of 10 to do 4 vehicles then bought one box of 10 to put with the extra 8 to do the 5th one. So 2 of the following kit about $316.00. But unless you do not have a leak yet and are going to be replacing them 1 by 1 you will need the new head gasket anyway and its a better deal to get the combo kit from the sponsors.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/arp-head-s ... LgQAvD_BwE

I have over 150 K on one since ARP s and no problem and none have had any head gasket issues with them. Valves replaced in 2 but only about 30,000 is most since replacement with no issues. Of those 2 one has GDE turbo and one has Hot tune. The GDE s were added with the studs.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

Jett wrote:

You’ve put 100 sets of studs in? That’s a lot of head gaskets. How many were this engine or what engines?

I've worked on over 110 CRDs - this is the ONLY vehicle I work on professionally. Not all of those were head gasket jobs, some were just a timing belt and some were studs / rockers / glow plugs (installing the studs one at a time). The studs can be installed without removing the head IF the engine passes the cold test and doesn't have a head gasket leak YET. But once the leak presents itself, you have to do the gasket too, the studs won't close up that gap.

I figure I've installed probably around 80 sets of studs now, and of that, probably around half have been with a head gasket and valves too. There have been a lot of valve jobs.

NOT ONE has come back with a head gasket leak or a subsequent valve failure after the valves have been replaced. If the engine is closing in on 200k miles, it REALLY doesn't make sense to skip doing the valves, b/c they have proven themselves to be a design weakness that is far more than a statistical blip. Yeah it's more work and parts... But when it is done, if all the upgrades are done at the same time, the engine is bulletproof for the life of the truck. That's saying something.

I'm glad to hear you are now a certified mechanic !! Congrats :wink:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 11:56 am

My66dodge wrote:

...and upgraded valves and arp connecting rod studs and ceramic coat the head and valves and pistons and exhaust manifold and...

This is where I step back, conduct a self assessment, and confirm...

Yes. I definitely have more brains than money. :lol:

My66dodge · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2020 3:40 pm

I either go big or stay home...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Who has best price on arp stud kit

Who is online