05 Limited CRD Rebuild

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:35 pm

Check and double check all the harness connections to the sensors and solenoids.
Then clear all the codes.
Then start it up and try again.

That p2294 means engine won’t run at all. Therefore it’s a old code.

The lack of power is from low boost. Check all the vacuum lines and solenoids.

03black · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2020 11:35 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Check and double check all the harness connections to the sensors and solenoids.
Then clear all the codes.
Then start it up and try again.

That p2294 means engine won’t run at all. Therefore it’s a old code.

The lack of power is from low boost. Check all the vacuum lines and solenoids.

So I checked all the vacuum lines and they are good with no worn through areas or cracks. In fact when I pull the line off the turbo actuator is sucks on my finger and stays there. Speaking of the actuator, I watched the arm drop really fast about an 1" when I pulled the line. When I reconnected the vac line the arm rose back up rapidly.

Everything seems to be pointing to the larger of the 2 solenoids (turbo vacuum modulator) that is/was making a buzzing noise.

Tomorrow I'll double check all the connectors and wiring again.

03black · **Posted:** Tue Jul 28, 2020 1:10 am

Worked on the jeep for bit after work, rechecked/reseated all the connections, took out the MAP sensor, cleaned and reinstalled it. Did a once over the wiring harness and saw that I installed the ground next to the TCM (G102) in the wrong spot, so corrected that, otherwise all looked ok.

Started Jeep again and the check engine light is still on. Noticed that the vacuum modulator solenoid (the one with the small filter on it) starts to buzz immediately when the jeep starts. I bypassed the smaller solenoid (the on/off to the vacuum tank) and it still buzzes. Everytime I take off any of the vacuum lines the turbo vane actuator arm moves down. Put the lines back on arm moves back up.

I think at this point I'm fighting 2 problems.
1st...air in the fuel system from the leaking fuel filter head.
2nd...bad solenoid based on the buzzing....btw its loud, you can hear it over the engine!

If it matters, the check engine light never goes out, ie put key in, turn to on, all lights come on then go out except the check engine light, start jeep light stays on.

Unless anyone else has other ideas, my parts should be here Friday for me to swap out. I hope they fix the problem.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jul 28, 2020 12:19 pm

You gotta pull the codes after they are cleared and that will give you the actual current faults. Those things buzz and don't necessarily mean that they are bad. I wouldnt waste much time troubleshooting it until you have the air in fuel fixed, then clear codes, then drive a little and pull codes again

03black · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 11:20 am

So an updated for everyone....

I finally received the new 2nd gen fuel filter head and vacuum solenoid. Installation of the fuel filter head was a breeze, not hard at all. Filled the new filter half way with PS diesel clean and bleed the air out of the system. Installed the new vacuum solenoid. Borrowed a code reader and cleared all the codes from the computer to start from a clean slate. Low and behold, she fired right up on the 2nd crank :BANANA:

Cold idle was about 800 rpms and I noticed no smoke or any other unusual noises. As a bonus the check engine light did not come back on

So I must have done something right :mrgreen:

I'll stop by NAPA and pick up some 5w40 oil after work today and give her some fresh blood. Also, have a 11 blade gasser nylon fan to install to finish up the radiator area and then take her for a spin around the block and she how she does on the road.

Wanted to say thanks to everyone here that have passed on their wealth of knowledge to this board. I did lots of researching and reading up and without that knowledge, this would not have been possible to get/keep another Liberty CRD on the road. If this test drive goes well (fingers crossed) it will be time for the next phase...CRD specific mods, JBA coil overs, 4:10 gears, ARB lockers, armor etc etc. Basically everything that's on my 3.7L will be transfer to the CRD but that probably won't be for at least a couple of months

Thanks guys!!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 1:51 pm

Very glad you got the gremlins figured out! :BANANA:

Be sure to add installing an intank fuel pump to your mod list. Air in fuel problems will be gone forever!
Once you add a intank fuel pump, you can also add a 2 micron fuel filter to protect the valuable and expensive CP3 injection pump and the 4 injectors. :wink:

03black · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:03 pm

Thanks WW
Yes plan is already to do an in tank pump for when I put on the MOPAR gas tank skid. Just have to gather the parts for it. Not many junkyards here have liberty's in them for the harness and I can't see myself buying the pre-made harness for $$$ when I know I can make one.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 3:11 pm

Simply modify add two wires to your existing wiring harness from under the rear seat to the top of the fuel tank: not real hard to do at all.
All you will need is some good quality copper wire and a few of the correct APEX 2.8MM wire terminals and a soldering gun and some solder.
This Webpage lays it out step by step:> http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/default.html
If you need help or advice, just ask, some of us on LOST have done this in the past.
If you can source a wiring harness out of a gasser, it is even easier. :wink:

Wire Terminals: APEX 2.8MM
male, 14-16 gauge wire
female, 14-16 gauge wire

Correct wiring terminals can be sourced here:
https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Autom ... bwZ1z1414h

03black · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 3:41 pm

Thanks, I knew I read that somewhere for the pins, just couldn't find the thread again. Original plan was to find the harness out of a gasser and use that and then source the correct intank pump assembly from a 05-07 Dodge diesel. Seems they have gone up in price a bit since the original members here started installing them.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2020 5:11 pm

They can be found for around $125, Summit Racing or Jegs has one of the best prices right now with free shipping.
Be careful of cheap off brands made in China.

Mopar: 5143160AB
Airtex E7181M
CARTER P76148M
Delphi # FG1224

:google:

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

WWDiesel wrote:

Simply modify add two wires to your existing wiring harness from under the rear seat to the top of the fuel tank: not real hard to do at all.
All you will need is some good quality copper wire and a few of the correct APEX 2.8MM wire terminals and a soldering gun and some solder.
This Webpage lays it out step by step:> http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/default.html
If you need help or advice, just ask, some of us on LOST have done this in the past.
If you can source a wiring harness out of a gasser, it is even easier. :wink:

Wire Terminals: APEX 2.8MM
male, 14-16 gauge wire
female, 14-16 gauge wire

Correct wiring terminals can be sourced here:
https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Autom ... bwZ1z1414h

If you don't feel like playing in the connector terminals you can simply do the connection outside of the OEM connector.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2020 12:08 am

PZKW108 wrote:

If you don't feel like playing in the connector terminals you can simply do the connection outside of the OEM connector.

That is very true and always another option that will work for under the back seat, but for the connector on the fuel tank module, you must add the correct terminals in the connector that plugs into the fuel module.

03black · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:04 am

I don't mind making the terminations in the OEM connector. Very familiar with how to do wiring (retired 26yrs Air Force avionics tech/developmental test & evaluation) besides I think it looks a bit more professional and provides a layer of protection from the elements. Although we don't get much rain out here in the desert

03black · **Posted:** Wed Aug 19, 2020 12:06 pm

So just wanted to provide an update...Been driving the "new" CRD for awhile now. Its getting close to 30 MPG mostly highway driving at 65mph so I would say that is great :BANANA:

noticed a few things that maybe a few of you guys could confirm....
1st...When I go to shut down the engine, it tends to shut down a bit harsh. The engine shakes a bit which in turn shakes the vehicle. Also, noticed when I put it into gear that its the same harshness and sitting at a stop light it sounds like there are marbles rattling around. But once I give it a bit of the go pedal, the noise goes away and the engine smooths out. Does this sound like bad motor mounts?

2nd...Driving around I noticed the temp gauge needle is about a half needle width to the left from the mid-point indication (12 o'clock). I understand that the gauge is not accurate indication but I don't have a way now to read the OBD temp. During the rebuild, I did install a new MOPAR thermostat from IDparts. I bleed the coolant system and refilled with Xerox G-05 HOAT coolant. Does this seem ok to everyone?

TIA

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 19, 2020 5:43 pm

Temperature is right where you want it, the vibration IS likely engine mounts.

03black · **Posted:** Wed Aug 19, 2020 5:48 pm

geordi wrote:

Temperature is right where you want it, the vibration IS likely engine mounts.

Great thanks verification Geordi...looks like its time to go shopping again

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 30, 2020 1:20 pm

totally agree with Geordi. Engine mounts likely. The harsher shutdown of engine though may be related to the flap in the Flow control valve if you did not remove it as I think WW suggested.

Congrats on your repair/ reconstruction project. I would definitely do the 2 micron fuel filter. In warmer climate such as yours I wouldn't even plug in the fuel heater it will not cause a code left unplugged.

For the in tank pump : I choose to put inline pump rather than in tank just because of time hassle factor etc at the time and didn't want to do it 4-6 times then if in tank pump went bad have to lower tank again. The european models have access plate in rear of jeep under carpet. Mountainman and others have said its covered with a mastic in our CRDs one of my next projects is to try to access it as Mountainman did I think by chipping mastic away and accessing top of tank. I dont think this saves any time and in fact probably takes longer but easier physically for me and if needed again its there.

Also think u made a small mistake in one of your posts. The number 4 furl injector plug will not fit on the cam sensor its the rear fuel rail sensor that it will fit on. I made that mistake once. One can tell the correct location by the color of the wires leading to the connector also as well as the one to fuel rail may come out of harness with the cam sensor wire.

You are definitely spot on about the helpfulness of this forum and the quality of advice given. Without researching beforehand 10 years ago I might have bought the first one but never the 2nd one etc.

03black · **Posted:** Sun Aug 30, 2020 8:07 pm

Thank TKB4, yeah no haven't replaced the engine mounts or install an in tank fuel pump yet, to many other projects that need my attention 1st.
Yep, no need to plug in the fuel heater as its 105 outside with the mornings around 75, she fired right up.
Ultimately, I'm going to transfer what I have on my 3.7L to the CRD later this year and hopefully take it to MOAB, and wheel it with my sister and brother in law there. May not be able to negotiate all the courses but I figure I should be able to get through most of them and still have some fun.
Right now I'm working on adapting the JBA coilover with CRD springs so I can get a bit more clearance on the CV axle vs. clevis leg arms. Once that's done and can start the swap over, mounts, tank pump and other minor maintenance stuff.

03black · **Posted:** Thu Oct 15, 2020 4:21 pm

So I wanted to give a bit of an update,

Little jeep was running well, then I kept having low boost code popping up and going into limp mode. Looked at the vacuum actuator arm and it did move freely when vacuum was removed but it still kept throwing the code. So parked the jeep and removed the turbo and then was able to get the turbine exhaust housing off...boy that sucker was stuck on too.

Once apart, a bunch of hard rock like carbon fell out and the vanes would only move through half of its full range of motion. So fully took it and had the housing and vanes assemblies glass media blasted an now the vanes move fully open to fully close. I did have to replace the 3 screws that hold down the vanes as they sheared off during removal. Replaced them with stainless steel allen head screws and blue locked tight them in.

Since I had the turbo apart I though this would be a good time to attempt a rebuild of the turbo and replace the journal bearing and seals. Note: did not have any play in the turbo shaft, it was for more of preventative maintenance. Got the rebuild kit from G-pop and started the disassemble. Well needless to say I must not have been paying very close attention during the disassembly process cuz every time I tried to put the turbo back together, either the exhaust shield on the turbine side would be lose and rattle inside the housing, the compressor wheel would bind on the compressor housing or if i tighten the compressor wheel to much it would not spin... :evil:

So a quick message was sent out to Blackbird innovations (dieselguy_86) and he said he could help me rebuild it properly and rebalance the assembly. Sent the turbo to him and hopefully I'll get it back next week.

While I wait for turbo to return, I went ahead and ordered all new motor mounts and transmission mounts. Passenger side mount was easy to do since I didn't have the turbo in the way and had it replaced in 15 mins. However the driver side mount did not want to cooperate. I can't seem to get the damm bottom nut off. Used both a deep 18mm socket and shallow socket with universal joints and extension and I couldn't break the nut free. Even tried to air impact gun and the only thing I was able to do was spin the socket on the nut... :banghead:

So before I did any real damage decided to call it quits and not mess with it anymore. Went ahead and changed out the trans mount. Note: I swapped over the heat shield from the old mount to the new mount to protect the rubber from exhaust heat. The original mounts were the original with 175K miles on them. The trans mount was covered in trans fluid and oil and the rubber was a bit squishy. I think I know were the oil leak is coming from but have to investigate the trans leak at a later date.

More to come...

03black · **Posted:** Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:05 pm

Howdy everyone, hope all is going well and that you are all getting ready for an unusual but great Thanksgiving.

So I finally got the turbo back from dieselguy_86 and put it in last weekend. When I took the turbo out I ended up breaking off 2 of the studs so had to remove the exhaust manifold to try and get the studs out. Unfortunately, that was not successful, after they continued to strip out and breakoff flush with the mounting flange. Ended up with drilling out the old studs, and tapping in another stud. Replaced all the copper locknuts with grade 5 nuts and lock washers. Hopefully, with all the heat cycles, they won't back out, time will tell i guess.

Anyway, while I was waiting for the turbo, I got and installed a knockoff Provent filter. Installed in the same place as most of you that installed one between the firewall and power steering reservoir. I did take a page from WW and plumbed it with copper tubing to and from the filter but wrapped it in some insulation tape to try and blend it in with the other hoses to make it look factory. If this one works well with the copper plumbing, I'll upgrade to the real thing later on.

Fired the jeep right up and let it idle for a bit and checked for any oil blowby the CAC hoses with a paper towel. Nothing showed up. No other oil leaks could be found and the actuator arm moved up and down with ease when I took the vacuum line off the actuator. Took it for a spin around the block and she ran beautifully with no abnormal noises or smoke. Been driving it to work ever since and she has some great pickup and go and the instant MPG readout says I'm getting around 26MPG....yeah

Oh and I went to the junkyard and was able to pull an 05 gasser fuel tank harness. Have to sit down and remove the extra wire connector and move the pump power wire to the proper pin location. Once the tank gets to empty/near empty I'll get a fuel pump and install the in-tank lift pump and then onto the next mod

05 Limited CRD Rebuild

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