flash7210 wrote:
If you haven’t figured this out yet then I’d say you can try unbolting the master cylinder and bending it and the lines forward to see if that will give you enough room.
Gently of course.
Yep, this was about the best idea I had come up with. I'll give it a shot when I have the time to do the job; this past weekend ended up being not quite as free as I'd expected.
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If you do end up completely removing the master cylinder then do all your brake bleeding with the key off and/or the ABS fuse removed.
And if you can, do a reverse bleed by pumping fluid into the calipers, thus pushing air out into the master cylinder reservoir.
Got it - it sounds like that would negate the need for the DRB-III.
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Why do you want to replace the brake booster?
It's failing the vacuum hold test, and I'm noticing more pedal effort being required to bring the KJ down to a stop. Brake fluid levels are constant, so suspect a failing booster rather than hydraulics. Pads & discs are new enough (18 months) that I'm not concerned about them, and appear to have worn evenly in both cases with good meat still remaining on the pads.