2005 crd antifreeze in oil

cts1950 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:48 am **Posts:** 12

I was on a multi day over landing camping trip. Day one drove about 250 miles to the meet up location. About 45 miles and about 5500 feet elevation my low oil pressure light came on. I checked oil level and it was OK so I thought oil was hot and thinned out. I put into low range to keep the rpm above 1500 to keep the light off. Camped and next morning with cold engine same problem. I was able to get internet connection and found that the oil pressure switch could be the problem but I did not want to take a chance of breaking down in the mountains on dirt roads so I departed trip at first paved road and got home.
The following morning I installed a mechanical gauge and had 45 psi at idle cold and about 65 at 2000 I thought I lucked out . I let the engine warm up and the pressure went away 15 at idle and 25 at 2000. I decided to do a oil change after it cooled down and then noticed that straight green antifreeze came out before the oil. It had not mixed in that I could tell so I be leave it leaked in after shut down. I noticed the reservoir was only slightly low about 1/2 inch and with no oil showing in it.
I let the oil drain until it quit dripping and used a cooling system pressure tester set to 15 psi and saw straight antifreeze dripping out of the drain.
I pulled the injectors out and rolled the engine over and saw no coolant blow out of the head. I removed the oil cooler and pressure tested it at 20 psi no bubbles shown after a hour.
I then made block off plates for the oil cooler the water pump inlet and thermostat and pressure tested the block and could hear air hissing through the oil filler. I could not hear any air leaks at any of the injector holes .

My guess at this time and I think it odd that a gasket failure between a water passage to oil passage on the head gasket failed or a liner o ring failed. I am thinking that removing the cam cover would allow me to see if the hissing is on the top end. I am using a hose to my ear and probing around to listen for the hissing.

any ideas if I am going about trouble shooting this issue

I replaced the head 2 years ago and used a stud kit when doing so. I have only put about 6000 miles on the rig since this was the first major trip towing a 1800 pound trailer.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Aug 20, 2020 10:16 pm

Why do you have non HOAT antifreeze in your Jeep??? I have never seen HOAT in green.

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Billybob · **Posted:** Fri Aug 21, 2020 1:43 am

What WolverineFW said^^^

Green anti-freeze blocks everything up!
If this is what you have in your Jeep you will need to flush it out completely and use the correct red HOAT!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 21, 2020 9:30 am

If it were a blown head gasket or cracked head, you'd see water pooled on top of the pistons.
You've already ruled out the oil cooler.
Therefore its something internal to the engine block.

Hopefully its the cylinder liner seals. At least that can be repaired. But its gonna require a complete engine tear down.
If its a cracked block, you're effed!

Or, roll the dice, put everything back together, dump in a bottle of K-Seal, and hope for the best.
And get ALL of that "green" coolant out of it!

cts1950 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:48 am **Posts:** 12

I was not aware of HOTE antifreeze. I have been using antifreeze that advertises that it can be added to all color antifreeze meets Ford Gm Chrysler Ms 7170 and Ms 9769 which I think meets the HOTE specification it is green. The antifreeze was a house brand so it could have been snake oil That being what it may can the oil pan be removed with out removing the engine? I think it would help to identify if it were a liner leaking by keeping the head on for pressure testing.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 21, 2020 8:17 pm

cts1950 wrote:

That being what it may can the oil pan be removed with out removing the engine? I think it would help to identify if it were a liner leaking by keeping the head on for pressure testing.

Its easier to remove the engine than take the pan off in place.
probably need to tighten the head studs for a start. I have had a lot of success with Chemiweld for fixing coolant leaks & bubbling in the top tank. Dont think I would be game to try if its going into the sump as its the same chemical as was used to destroy engines in the cash for clunkers. Probably worth retesting the oil cooler.
Good Luck!

cts1950 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:48 am **Posts:** 12

layback40 wrote:

Its easier to remove the engine than take the pan off in place.

I was afraid of that . I will have to read up on the removal procedure. I wonder if dropping it out of the bottom by lifting the body off the subframe. I suspect that the factory installs the engine from underneath as a drive package. If I have to go through removing the engine I might as well freshen up the transmission at the same time. This is looking like a spring time project for me Im having carpal tunnel surgery on both hands in the next 3 weeks. Well at least I won't be out of a jeep I still have my 67 Jeepster Commando with a Isuzu 4jb1t diesel to get me off road in the meantime.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:29 am

cts1950 wrote:

I was afraid of that . I will have to read up on the removal procedure. I wonder if dropping it out of the bottom by lifting the body off the subframe. I suspect that the factory installs the engine from underneath as a drive package. If I have to go through removing the engine I might as well freshen up the transmission at the same time. This is looking like a spring time project for me Im having carpal tunnel surgery on both hands in the next 3 weeks. Well at least I won't be out of a jeep I still have my 67 Jeepster Commando with a Isuzu 4jb1t diesel to get me off road in the meantime.

Good luck with the surgery!
I would have thought you would be all good by mid fall & get started on the jeep. That way the cold approaching would be very motivating.

cts1950 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:48 am **Posts:** 12

As far as motivation is concerned, this Fall I have plans to try to keep for the old Jeepster.
I have 2 overlanding trips coming up before the end of the year if my hands are usable. I have a 5 day in October in southeastern Idaho and another in Arizona in November if Covid doesn't cancel it for the 3rd time . My jeepster was one of 20 rigs selected for the 2020 Four Wheeler Magazine Overland Adventure.
Dose a 67 Jeepster fit in as a Lost Jeep?

Ok I am convinced that The green universal antifreeze was a bad choice, that is what was in it when I bought it. Any suggestions on proper flushing chemicals? I haven't had over temp issues but before the last trip I changed the thermostat and installed the GM 11 blade and a fan clutch conversion just to be safe. The temp stayed at a steady 197 degrees by the OBD2 port.

cts1950 · **Joined:** Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:48 am **Posts:** 12

I think I have ruled out the o rings on the liners. I drilled and tapped the block off plate I made for the oil cooler and installed a ball valve so could fill the water jacket up to the thermostat plate where I installed a air quick connect fitting. I then lowered the hose that to drain the block lower than the gasket surface . I re pressured the cooling system to 30 psi and still could still hear a air leak in the oil fill port. No water came out of the oil pan drain after 5 hours of constant pressure. I be leave this points to the head gasket or cracked head. I can't go any further on diagnosing what the exact problem is until I recover from my hand surgery s.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 26, 2020 2:50 pm

Well at least some relatively good news. It should take about 6 weeks after last surgery before you would be able to do the type of hand use it takes to do this type of work.
I would just irrigate they cooling system copiously with water then replace with distilled water once or twice and save a glass full of last drained fluid, then put HOAT ( most use ZEREX G05) to fill a glass about half full then add the drained fluid to fill the glass mix the glass and let it sit a day or so and if looks normal refill with HOAT.

The problem is I would run the engine after each flushing till thermostat opens and I am not sure what all u would need to do to accomplish the same thing until you complete the engine work. You might be able to rig something to flush through thermostat attachment you blocked off . Remember coolant goes to EGR system also if present.

2005 crd antifreeze in oil

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