LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Oil pan and helicoil issues

I have also read on here of people using JB Weld or RTV to help seal the Fumato. Any overall consensus?.

Thanks for your suggestions. I bought a M20-1.5 tap and valve online today. It’s suppose to arrive Sunday. Hopefully I will have time to wrap it up this weekend.
Only thing now is JB Weld vs RTV vs Teflon tape(yellow gas rated).

Not to crap on the oil drain valve, but another approach here (and the one I'd use) would be to use a timesert instead of a helicoil. As timeserts are flanged, once they are installed they don't go anywhere. Also, since they are a full thread replacement, they require a bigger hole than a helicoil which means you can generally repair a botched helicoil with a timesert.

Although they are pretty expensive, especially for a big fastener, they are always my choice for replacing busted oil pan threads.

Yeah, a pipe bushing definitely works for a personal car, but down the road could explode some heads at a Jiffy Lube.

Also, I am not so sure how reusable pipe threads are... They seal through interference, so eventually they deform and leak. But possibly not for an inconsequentially long time.

Author:	woody0331 [ Tue Oct 13, 2020 7:10 pm ]
Post subject:	Oil pan and helicoil issues
Long time listener first time caller My liberty oil pan threads were stripped and a helicoil was installed many years ago. When it was installed it was not tapped square to the pan. I would therefore have to torque it to keep from leaking. I'm guessing last oil change I gave it one tooo many "uhhs" as this weekend while changing the oil I noticed the plug was coming out tighter than usual. After draining the oil I tried reinstalling the plug. I was having a hard time getting the treads to catch. Once it felt like they did catch, I ended up threading the helicoil up into the oil pan. It feels like my threads on the oil pan are shot as well. I now need to re-tap and this time install a Fumato drain valve so I do not need to deal with this again. This all happened after the successful but difficult and oily task of changing the crank position sensor. Afterward I cleaned up, put the tools away and walked away for the weekend defeated. Now that I have licked my wounds its time to figure this out. My question is, what size do I need? and what is the best way to figure this out. The old drain plug is 5/8. Looking up a 5/8" helicoil I found a spec sheet showing the helicoil threads of a particular brand are a max of .7580 inches. I Stopped by the hardware store yesterday and bought a couple of oil plugs to try and see if I can figure out the current hole and thread size. They only had metric so I bought a 18 and 20mm(all they had). The 18 was able to catch a thread but wouldn’t go more than a half turn. I’m afraid I will not get enough threads if I tap it to 3/4 or 18mm. I assume a Fumato 7/8" or 22mm valve is going to be the closest fit. Any recommendations? Secondly, what about the helicoil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. Should I have any concerns about it? I’m having a hard time figuring out how and where the oil is pulled out of the pan to the engine. I have also read on here of people using JB Weld or RTV to help seal the Fumato. Any overall consensus? Realistically, I don't see my self re-tapping this perfectly square and potentially having the same sealing problem again and figure sealing the Fumato is the way to go. TIA 2006 liberty sport 155k I have read the noob guide.

Author:	mrhemi [ Tue Oct 13, 2020 9:35 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
I have 18mm Fumoto valves in both of my CRDs. Not with Helicoils though.

Author:	CATCRD [ Tue Oct 13, 2020 11:42 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
Here is the inside of the oil pan. The pickup tube, with a screen on it, sits in the circular area. So that large diameter helicoil would have to make it through the gaps to even be a threat in that regard. Whether or not the balance shafts are going to grab it and chew it up is anyone's guess, but i doubt it.

Author:	iakj11 [ Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:05 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
woody0331 wrote: I have also read on here of people using JB Weld or RTV to help seal the Fumato. Any overall consensus?. The threads in my oil pan were questionable, so I used rtv as a thread sealer when I installed a fumoto. It's held tight for a few oil changes now.

Author:	WWDiesel [ Wed Oct 14, 2020 2:49 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
Another option. In 2013 when I purchased my Jeep Liberty used, the OEM oil drain plug was basically stripped and would not tightened up and therefor was dripping oil slightly. The repair: I taped the drain plug hole out with a tapered pipe plug tap; I believe it was 1/2 inch (from memory). I then screwed a 1/2" x 3/8" black iron pipe plug reducer bushing into the hole with JB Weld on the threads. I then screwed a 3/8 pipe plug into the bushing with teflon tape on on the threads. I now only R&R the 3/8 pipe plug when draining oil. It has worked leak free for 7 years now.

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Author:	woody0331 [ Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:37 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
Thanks for your suggestions. I bought a M20-1.5 tap and valve online today. It’s suppose to arrive Sunday. Hopefully I will have time to wrap it up this weekend. Only thing now is JB Weld vs RTV vs Teflon tape(yellow gas rated).

Author:	WWDiesel [ Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:59 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
woody0331 wrote: Thanks for your suggestions. I bought a M20-1.5 tap and valve online today. It’s suppose to arrive Sunday. Hopefully I will have time to wrap it up this weekend. Only thing now is JB Weld vs RTV vs Teflon tape(yellow gas rated). If you plan to permanently install something, you cannot beat JB Weld. (metal must be very clean with no oil before applying) Good quality automotive Silicone RTV sealer would be my second choice. (Do need to let it cure for 24 hours) Teflon Tape last choice.

Author:	thesameguy [ Tue Oct 20, 2020 6:05 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
Not to crap on the oil drain valve, but another approach here (and the one I'd use) would be to use a timesert instead of a helicoil. As timeserts are flanged, once they are installed they don't go anywhere. Also, since they are a full thread replacement, they require a bigger hole than a helicoil which means you can generally repair a botched helicoil with a timesert. Although they are pretty expensive, especially for a big fastener, they are always my choice for replacing busted oil pan threads.

Author:	WWDiesel [ Tue Oct 20, 2020 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
thesameguy wrote: Not to crap on the oil drain valve, but another approach here (and the one I'd use) would be to use a timesert instead of a helicoil. As timeserts are flanged, once they are installed they don't go anywhere. Also, since they are a full thread replacement, they require a bigger hole than a helicoil which means you can generally repair a botched helicoil with a timesert. Although they are pretty expensive, especially for a big fastener, they are always my choice for replacing busted oil pan threads. Very similar to the pipe bushing I described above and they too are flanged and have tapered threads which is always a big plus when dealing with sealing liquids.

Author:	thesameguy [ Tue Oct 20, 2020 11:56 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
Yeah, a pipe bushing definitely works for a personal car, but down the road could explode some heads at a Jiffy Lube. Also, I am not so sure how reusable pipe threads are... They seal through interference, so eventually they deform and leak. But possibly not for an inconsequentially long time.

Author:	TKB4 [ Wed Oct 28, 2020 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
The hole you have in your oil pan sounds like it may already be too big for this but I dud what was first recommended several years ago. drill hole out with a 41/64th inch drill bit then tap with a m18x1.5 mm tap and use the Fumoto valve meant for this size thread. I dont have the fumoto number handy but I am sure you can get it from their website or a phonecall. I have both of these tools I am not using right now so if you need them will be glad to loan them to you for a refundable deposit and shipping cost. PM or better email me if interested.

Author:	TKB4 [ Wed Oct 28, 2020 8:52 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
The hole you have in your oil pan sounds like it may already be too big for this but I dud what was first recommended several years ago. drill hole out with a 41/64th inch drill bit then tap with a m18x1.5 mm tap and use the Fumoto valve meant for this size thread. I dont have the fumoto number handy but I am sure you can get it from their website or a phonecall. I have both of these tools I am not using right now so if you need them will be glad to loan them to you for a refundable deposit and shipping cost. PM or better email me if interested.

Author:	WWDiesel [ Wed Oct 28, 2020 9:25 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil pan and helicoil issues
thesameguy wrote: Yeah, a pipe bushing definitely works for a personal car, but down the road could explode some heads at a Jiffy Lube. Also, I am not so sure how reusable pipe threads are... They seal through interference, so eventually they deform and leak. But possibly not for an inconsequentially long time. I simply wrap the smaller pipe thread plug with teflon tape. Been doing this for right at eight years now and never any leak issues. Pipe threads are tapered and self selling with a little sealant. But you are right, I do perform all my own maintenance on all my vehicles. I simply never to trust some jackleg to touch my vehicles.

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