Hi folks! Looking for help from the sages again...

Today I was driving my older CRD, which has about 220k, to the shop for an exhaust. Haven't driven it in a month. Made an awful racket right away, rattling, ringing, shaking, scraping... I knew there was a break in the exhaust pipe so I pulled over to see if the muffler was dragging. It wasn't. Even though it was making noise I thought I would keep going, only a mile to the shop.

200 yards later it started losing power, wouldn't respond to the pedal. I pulled off, shut it down, popped the hood. No serpentine belt- shredded! I had a new one on hand so I replaced the belt, which went fine.

Now it wont start. It gets close, sometimes firing on 1, 2, sometimes maybe 3 cylinders but wont stay running. I suspect it is a fuel problem, because it does not produce much exhaust or unburned fuel in the air. I bled the system and there is fuel at the fuel head, as well as at the #1 injector. Checked all the fuses, swapped relays. No codes.

What do you think is wrong? Or what should I check next?

This vehicle is stock though it did have new rockers at 170k as well as the intake, EGR and turbo cleaned out at that time. I have run it with the MAF unplugged ever since. It's been great, most powerful CRD I've driven. Thanks for any help!

There have been cases where people's accessory belts came off and jammed the accessory system hard enough that it also made the timing belt jump. I would see if you can pin out the cams/crank. Sounds like you know how to.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Interesting. That's the first theory I've heard that actually makes a causality link between the belt going and all the noise and shaking.

I don't actually know how to check those alignment holes, do you have a video? Is it easier than taking off the cover and looking at the timing marks?

Look for corobotchicken's you tube videos on liberty crd timing belt replacement for a good show and tell on the three alignment pins. I'd say that checking the alignment holes will be easier than removing the timing cover as long as you can find a way to turn the crank by hand. There are no timing marks behind the cover anyway, unless the last person to change the belt made some. Even then, there is no guarantee those marks are still accurate. There is a useful mark behind the crank pulley that is visible with the pulley removed and without removing the timing cover. This will allow you to visually see if the crank is at 90 degrees past top dead center, which is where you'll want it for the checking.

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2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax