Front drive-shaft failed. Options?

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2021 11:19 am

I made some extremely over-enthusiastic, ill-advised and ill-prepared decisions last Thursday.
I misjudged off-road conditions in remote Northern Nevada back-country. Jeep coulda' made it, but didn't; the front drive-shaft failed at the tcase side. If I had packed chains, I probably could have navigated the 6-12" hard-pack and mud on my rear-lockers alone. No chains = dead MacGuyver. So, in winter CARRY CHAINS, even if you think that your 4-wheel locker rig is invincible.
Full-moon, 25-mile solo power-march to the nearest ranch, cougars tracking me hard.
Sometimes, stupid survives. I'm proof.

Anyway, mechanical facts:
I pulled the front shaft off. Reviewing both previous posts on the subject and online retail products, prices and availability, it sounds like there are a few repair options:
- Complete new CRD-specific axle. All cost around $550, quality apparently similar all-around; all Beijing.
- Driveshaft CV rebuild-kit @ $30. Advisable for long-term durability?
- Junkyard. I swapped the Airlocker'd front & rear ends off a 3.7 6-spd and onto my CRD. I recall that the front drive-shaft was original to the CRD, but after 4 years could be wrong. Anyway, plenty of dead 3.7 4x4's so I'll measure the dead shaft and compare lengths.

If folks have had success with the rebuild kits, I'll probably install a yard axle to restore 4wd asap (if fittable) and then rebuild the old one as a backup lifesaving device.
And then NOT go TOO FAR solo off the beaten path.

Gotta' say, though: it was a magnificent moonlit night to march, live or die in the high-desert back-country mountains!

The next morning, I was fuming to one of the ranch hands how furious I was at myself for making so many reckless decisions. After I finished ranting, in that way completely unique to Nevadan country folk, he said,
"Yeah, but until the axle went you were having fun, weren't ya'?"
Yup, of the highest order. Excellent place to die.
Guess just not the time for it.

Keys: Liberty CRD broke broken damaged failed front-axle front axel drivetrain noise no front traction no 4wd no 4x4 stupid gringo sasquatch not food, kitty...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2021 2:55 pm

Back in 2013 when I first purchased my Jeep CRD, I replaced both front driveshaft CV joints with new ones using kits from Detroit Axle. One of them was worn out had a busted boot and was loose.
Kits came with new CV joints, boots, bolts, grease, etc... https://www.detroitaxle.com/
They are both still in service today. 40k+ miles

Another good place to purchase driveline parts:> https://www.driveshaftparts.com/

There are a some other options available, some are quite costly. :shock:

Complete driveshaft assembly OEM part number: 52111593AB

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

I tried one of the $30 repair kits in 2018. It started making noise at 1 year. It lasted 2 years.

I then installed an aftermarket complete shaft from https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.p ... DSJ910L%09

It was $84 at the time. I see it is now $101. No problems so far, but it has only been a year.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 07, 2021 1:50 pm

[Below are excellent detailed step-by-step instructions to R&R a front driveshaft and flanges, posted by Wasatch15 in 2007, thread title "New Front Drive Shaft"*]

So, there's a 4th repair/replace option; new shaft with standard U-joints, adios CVs. "Driveline Services" in Sparks, NV., offered me two options, in-stock:
A. Rebuilt stock drive-shaft w/CVs @ $340.
B. Custom shaft & flanges w/U-joints @ $565.

The tech @ DS Sparks emphasized that a lifted liberty would perpetually destroy the CV-equipped front shaft joints. Also, given the combined toll of personal trauma and jeep-retrieval cost outta' the backcountry, the upgrade was a no-brainer. Another factor: online cost for a stock CV-equipped replacement driveshaft is $525-up, excluding shipping.

I hope to finish the install today and report. If there's anything useful to add to Wasatch's excellent instructions, will do.

Here are pics of my original shaft w/failed CVs and the new shaft:

*"Jeep Liberty
Twenty Steps to a Stronger and Serviceable Front Drive Shaft

The Jeep this work was performed on is a 2002 Liberty Sport 4x4 with a NV3550 five speed manual transmission, NP231J transfer case, and a Dana 30A aluminum front differential.

Step One: Before you remove the original drive shaft mark it with line up marks at each end of the shaft and its matching companion flange. This will insure you will maintain shaft balance should you decide to return it into service.

Step Two: Using an 8mm socket or wrench, remove six bolts connecting companion flange of front differential to front of drive shaft then do the same with the six bolts on the companion flange connected to the transfer case.

Step Three: The drive shaft is now loose and can be removed. I was able to maneuver it out without unbolting and moving the exhaust pipe, but you may be forced to unbolt the exhaust.

Step Four: Measure for the new driveshaft using a tape measure and record the length between the raised protrusions around the outside of the companion flange on the differential side and the outside rim of the companion flange on the transfer case.

TRANSFER CASE

Step Five: Drain fluid from transfer case.

Step Six: Using a 1 1/8” socket, remove nut securing companion flange on front output shaft of transfer case. You may want to replace this nut with a new one as it is a locking type nut, re-use is usually not recommended. (If you re-use the nut, use lock-tite upon re-installation). This is your decision.

Step Seven: Use puller to remove companion flange from splined shaft. NOTE* if you haven’t drained the fluid from TC, it will leak out soon as you pull the companion flange from the splined shaft.

Step Eight: Carefully remove original front output shaft oil seal on transfer case and replace it with a new National 710046 oil seal. The oil seal surface on the new yoke is a smaller diameter then the original on the companion flange. That’s why the new oil seal is needed.

Step Nine: Lube the outside oil seal surface of the new Spicer 2-4-4341 splined yoke; install it on the splined shaft of the transfer case. Install new locknut or clean male threads and apply lock-tite to the shaft threads. Tighten lock nut securing new yoke.

Step Ten: Re-fill transfer case with 1.0L (2.2 pints) of ATF+4 fluid.

DIFFERENTIAL

Step Eleven: Since the original companion flange and new Spicer 2-4-6901 both have the same size oil seal diameter a new oil seal is not needed but mine leaked a short time later so I would recommend you install a new oil seal at this time. Oil seal is a Spicer 50619

Step Twelve: If replacing oil seal do this step, if not skip to step 15. Drain differential fluid.

Step Thirteen: Remove locknut with 1 1/8” socket and remove original companion flange using puller.

Step Fourteen: Remove old oil seal, replace with new Spicer 50619 oil seal.

Step Fifteen: If not replacing oil seal you will be able to quickly swap the original companion flange with the new Spicer 2-4-6901 yoke and lose minimal fluid, if you do it quickly. Place rag on cross member under pinion area of front differential to catch any fluid that escapes. Clean threaded area of pinion shaft and lube oil seal surface of new yoke. Install new yoke.

Step Sixteen: Install new locknut on pinion shaft or apply lock-tite if re-using old nut (your decision). Use 1 1/8” socket to carefully tighten locknut. Get all play out of yoke to shaft connection but be very careful not to over torque or you could compress the crush sleeve and change the original pinion setting **USE CAUTION AND CARE**

Step Seventeen: Compress new drive shaft enough to install it in the new yokes. Place front u-joint into new yoke on the differential side and install U-bolts. Tighten evenly.

Step Eighteen: Place rear U-joint into the new yoke on the transfer case side, install bolts and tighten evenly.

Step Nineteen: If you had to drain differential, re-fill it with 75W-140 synthetic gear lube.

Step Twenty: Check for leaks, Test drive at a slow speed, check for leaks, then test drive at highway speeds to check for any problems.

Part # Description Vendor Cost
35D131 Spicer Yoke (2-4-6901-1X) Tom Woods $55
50619 Spicer Oil Seal Six States $9.50
710046 National Oil Seal Six States $9.60
26ZCV131 Spicer Yoke (2-4-4341) Tom Woods $60
A2XC-131-131 Drive Shaft Tom Woods $299
Total $433.10
You will also have to pay shipping"

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

Gypsy,
Very nice! Great write up and pictures. But I must inform you that your new shaft is also called a CV (constant velocity), but is a MUCH heavier duty version. The double U-joint on the one end is what makes it a CV.

A conventional driveshaft would only have one U-joint on each end. A conventional driveshaft can only be used when both input and output shafts are in parallel with each other. When they are not in parallel, you get the speed up, slow down with every revolution and this causes major vibration. The CV joint eliminates this problem.

The heavy duty CV joint that you pictured should last forever in this application and I would highly recommend it for lifted Libertys.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 08, 2021 10:06 pm

Tom Woods web site does not list any driveshafts for the Jeep Liberty KJ :shock:

Did they quit building them or was it a special order only?

https://4xshaft.com/search?q=jeep+kj
Search results
0 matches for jeep KJ

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 09, 2021 12:48 am

Can't speak for Tom Woods drivelines.
Interesting that 2 u-joints = CV. Keep knowledge coming!

However, at the moment I'm not precisely thrilled with Driveline Specialists. I wrassled like hell to remove the stock yoke/flange/pinyons. When I went to install the swank custom replacement yokes, the OD of the splines weren't even close. Obviously, this presented a completely unusable oil seal scenario :banghead:

I called them and they said that there are EIGHT different yokes for a 2005 Liberty (!?).

Only solution, to double-back 150 miles to Sparks to have them confirm with vehicle onsite.
What bothers me: a well-established driveline shop should know, and have warned me, that the supplied yokes may be incorrect. At least I would have proceeded with the swap locally to confirm fit.

Also, they wanted $200 for the install: now that everything is loose it will be cake to pull (thanks to my futile hours of ol'-sore-man labor), I'm curious if/how they step-up after leaving me screwed and sore, so to speak.
Tomorrow will tell...

EDIT: Turns out that "Ol Man Sore" was actually early covid symptoms. Fairly certain infected by unmasked youngsters who helped me recover the jeep from backcountry. They surely meant well; Trade-offs...

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 09, 2021 7:50 pm

So, Driveline Services [@ Sparks, NV.] charged me $300 total for:
- swapping in the correct yoke (Dana 35, not 30),
- installing the front shaft, including replacing one oil seal,
- replacing 2 rear-shaft U-joints,
- welding a screw onto jammed/stripped tcase fill-plug, removing & replacing with new.

I'm okay with that. Obviously, not thrilled that they gave no heads-up that the new yokes may not match the stock, leaving me screwed after hours of labor, but I suppose the $300 reflects a modicum of contrition. That, and the fact that this geezer-body is sore as hell and gladly forked-out $300 NOT to have to go back under the jeep, lol.
Seems to drive fine, but haven't shifted into 4x yet...
EDIT- All other 4x4 systems seem to function okay; L/R 1/2-shafts, diff and tcase. Evidently, only failure was front driveshaft.

Given that shaft-shops' prices for a custom upgrade (utilizing 3 standard u-joints) compete with the cost of the vastly inferior stock-style replacement front shaft, if it takes a dump (and you can afford the $500-600) the upgrade seems like a no-brainer.
Regardless what shop you choose, in order to fab a custom front-shaft, after removing the front-shaft a shaft-shop will need the precise measurement between the centers of the diff & tcase yokes.
They will also need the O.D. (Outside Diameter) of your yoke-shafts so the shop can supply correct-spec replacements (and new compatible oil seals).

A few take-aways:
MAINTAIN YOUR DRIVELINE!
They have grease fittings for a reason. When you change oil, take a few more minutes to gun some fresh grease into the yokes & shaft-splines etc. Maybe some savant can pipe-in with the official maintenance spec.
The shaft shop did emphasize that the fitting located on the shaft spline only requires light greasing, as excessive pressure can blow the plug located inside the shaft's end-flange.

Also, Goodrich TA's were essentially useless in wet snow (rwd-only); they looked like snowmen! I think some tread-designer let their 7 year-old doodle the pattern; no through-channels at all. One didn't survive the pounding, giving me an excuse to mount Duratracs.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 10, 2021 1:14 pm

I also invite any & all to pipe-in with MacGuyver field-fixes for a blown front-axle CV. It appears that the objective would be to pressure the outer CV ring to stay engaged with the tcase yolk. Same seems to apply if the CV failed at the diff side.

Now, I wish I'd tried harder to improvise a temporary fix. The situation was a bit more complicated; total 10 hours sleep in 3-days camping = diminished faculties, combined with snow looming on the Western horizon, greatly impacted my decision to leave the jeep & hike out.

However, assessing the blown CV in retrospect, it seems plausible that I could potentially have used a ratchet-strap around the shaft to pressure the shaft's CV ring to stay engaged at the tcase. Even crawling at 1-2mph in ARB'd 4x4 for 10-plus hours (& 17k shaft-revolutions @ 31" tire x 25miles) would have been 1000x preferable to trekking 25 miles through cougar country!
Also, a strap-fix may have hobbled the jeep back to 2wd terrain, then pull the strap-rig and back to (so-called) civilization. Thereby avoiding mass expenditures of imposition, time, money, humility and mortality.

May as well toss-in a few pics of my scenic stranding.
This is the Friday morning I opted to abandon the jeep and trek out. Moonset to the West just as the sky was lightening to the East.
Spectacular... pics don't do justice:

MacGuyvers: keep in mind the (limited) typical inventory accompanying a 3k road-trip, with only basic tools/parts, and 4x4 camping gear.
Aloha

spoon · **Posted:** Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:55 pm

Is there any way to make this a sticky? If folks that have done drive shaft repairs would tell us about it with shops and part numbers I think this would be useful. I'm looking at a front drive shaft repair and I think I will go the Double Cardon route.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:14 pm

spoon wrote:

Is there any way to make this a sticky? If folks that have done drive shaft repairs would tell us about it with shops and part numbers I think this would be useful. I'm looking at a front drive shaft repair and I think I will go the Double Cardon route.

Personally I think that may be an overkill and a waste of money for some. Simply replacing the CV joints/boots on both ends of the front driveshaft from a vendor like DetroitAxle.com or DriveshaftParts.com is more than sufficient for all but a hard core offroader.

I replaced both my front driveshaft CV Joints & boots back in 2013 with new ones from Detroit Axle and I checked both of them tonight and they are still in excellent shape, no discernible excess play or movement and boots are still in great shape. :BANANA:

spoon · **Posted:** Thu Mar 18, 2021 10:22 pm

I will look at that. I am an overkill kind of guy though. My 2000 Grand Cherokee has the double cardon on the transfer case end, thats what started me thinking in that direction.

Front drive-shaft failed. Options?

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