Brakes and voltage

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Hi, I have 2 problems with the Liberty I need help with.
First rear caliper on drivers side stuck with outboard brake pad getting almost worn away and causing rotor/axle flange/caliper to get red hot. After allowing to cool overnight lifted Liberty and rear wheels spun easily. Upon inspection outboard brake pad was cooked and almost worn out. Ordered axle bearings, seals, calipers, hoses, rotors and pads. Will I be able to bleed the system without affecting the abs? It’s time to replace the brake fluid anyway.
Second the instrument panel and ac fan is getting fluctuating voltage. The odometer, fuel gauge and temperature gauge go off for a few seconds and the ac fan speed changes. I ran additional grounds to the trans ecu, engine ecu, engine to body and behind driver headlight to battery negative with no change. This started after transmission rebuild but don’t know if it’s related. All comments will be greatly appreciated.

Billybob · **Posted:** Mon Mar 29, 2021 6:34 am

I can't help you with your brake problems but as far as the electrical problems:

Download the 2005 Jeep KJ Service Manuals here if you do not have them

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

Section 8W has the Wiring Diagrams, check the voltages are not fluctuating on the failing components as well as the ECM, TCM etc.

The 2005 CRD is the only CRD that has the FCM (Front Control Module) near the Firewall centrally located.

This passes all the Busses through to the different components.

The FCM has one connector on it and as it is exposed to the elements, mud, water, snow, salt etc. it can get corroded.

Try clean the FCM and it connector's contacts.

This FCM fails a lot and most 2005 CRD owners have had to try to locate replacement modules from Breaker yards but the supply is diminishing rapidly.

Try to get Error Codes pulled from the ECM! :wink:

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

You can bleed the brakes normally if you don't let the circuit go dry. Clamp off the brake hose while you're working and you should be fine.

turblediesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 29, 2021 6:40 pm

Both of my rear calipers only lasted one set of pads. I didn't clamp the lines and couldn't get a good firm pedal bleeding normally so I bled at the ABS outlets, and then at the calipers. Did it with the engine running and a trusted assistant on the pedal. Book called for one press of the pedal per bleed, no pumping. Since it was finicky I used hoses into a glass container of brake fluid while bleeding the calipers so I could see the bubbles. It took awhile and a lot of brake fluid but it worked.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Wed Mar 31, 2021 8:52 am

Sounds like the rear brake hoses or calipers are faulty, I would replace both the hoses and calipers but NOT with cardone parts, get them from Napa. If the brake lines brake down inside they can become a one way check valve inside and cause the calipers to stick, I have seen this a few times in my career. For the brake bleeding just do a normal pump and bleed there is nothing wrong with pumping several times in between opening the bleeder, at work we usually do 3-5 pumps between opening the bleeder.

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daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

I’m going to replace the axle bearings and seals along with the emergency brake shoes/hardware, calipers, hoses, rotors and pads. I pulled the axles today and the parts are supposed to be here this afternoon. I need to get a slide hammer bearing puller from Harbor Freight in the morning. How do the axle bearings get pressed back into the tubes and should they get packed with grease? The wheel/caliper/rotor/axle flange got hot enough I thought it might catch on fire. I’m changing the seals because I thought it might have gotten hot enough to cook the seal material. I spent 3 or 4 minutes dowsing the wheel with water from a puddle to cool it off so I could limp home.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:46 pm

daytona701 wrote:

I’m going to replace the axle bearings and seals along with the emergency brake shoes/hardware, calipers, hoses, rotors and pads. I pulled the axles today and the parts are supposed to be here this afternoon. I need to get a slide hammer bearing puller from Harbor Freight in the morning. How do the axle bearings get pressed back into the tubes and should they get packed with grease? The wheel/caliper/rotor/axle flange got hot enough I thought it might catch on fire. I’m changing the seals because I thought it might have gotten hot enough to cook the seal material. I spent 3 or 4 minutes dowsing the wheel with water from a puddle to cool it off so I could limp home.

After you remove the old bearings and seals, most just drive the new bearings into the tube until they bottom out. I use a great big socket and big hammer that just fits on the outer race of the bearing but is slightly smaller than the ID of axle tube so as to not damage it when driving it into the tube. After the bearing is driven in until it seats, then you can drive in the axle seals. A light coating of wheel bearing grease on the bearing and seal surfaces where they contact the axle won't hurt a thing. The bearing will be lubricated by the oil in the differential when you start going down the road.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Removed rear seals and axle bearings. Waiting for seals and bearings to arrive. Installed new front rotors and pads. Went to install rear brake hoses and calipers and can’t remove old hoses from brake line. Nowhere to use line wrench so used a vice grip on hose end and pipe wrench on line fitting and cannot get it to budge. Don’t want to destroy the brake line/fitting. Is there a trick to this? Applied penetrating oil on the joint Wednesday figuring it would be easy today Friday to take apart. I’m lazy like that.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Ok, searched this site and found that the rear brake hose and hard line are one piece with no connection. Looks like I need a tubing bender, flare tool, hard line and fittings to use the new caliper hoses I bought.

daytona701 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:32 pm **Posts:** 99

Ordered rear axle hard brake lines from motorcitymusclecar on eBay for $37.40 instead of fabricating new hard lines. This way the new rubber hoses connected to the new rear calipers can be used. Will also replace the rubber line from the frame to the rear axle. That means all new brakes on the rear. Will gravity drain the system making sure the brake cylinder reservoir stays full while doing so. Just finished replacing both rear axle outer bearings and seals. Will service the transfer case and front differential. Already replaced upper control arms at front and upper control arm at rear. At present front suspension, steering and driveshafts look good. While waiting for brake lines to show up will drop fuel tank and install Airtex in tank pump along with wire harness from ID Parts. Was going to fabricate harness but got lazy and hit the buy button. Then to the engine bay for installation of 2 micron filter from WWDIESEL and updated fuel head. Want to drive the Liberty from south Mississippi to southwest Colorado without being left on side of the road. Thanks to all those who contribute to this site.

Brakes and voltage

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