Hi, the rear drivers side caliper was dragging and got hot enough that I thought it could catch on fire on my 2005 Liberty. The Liberty has about 153 miles. Decided to replace rear hoses, calipers, rotors, brake pads, rear axle seals and bearings. Found out the rear caliper flexible hoses and steel 3/16” brake lines are one piece and can’t be separated unless a hacksaw is involved. Inline Tube has a rear stainless steel brake line set for about $45 including shipping. The description for the steel lines says for non ABS and non TC (traction control) applications. The first question is why replacing one piece flexible/hard line with 2 piece flexible/ hard line would make a difference to ABS or TC. The second question is what is the sensor on top of the rear differential? Thanks in advance.

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2005 Silver Liberty CRD
Provent, 3.7 intake, K+N filter
ARP studs, Hemi pu tcm
In tank harness/fuel pump
Airtex rear bag, Fujimoto valve
Upgraded lifters, exhaust valves, fuel head
Florida torque converter, ID trans pump
Transgo shift kit, GM fan
2 micron filter, Bilstein shocks
Viscous heater delete

All north-American 2005 liberty have ABS w/o traction control.

The ABS system is a 3 channels with a wheel speed sensor on both front wheels and a single one on the rear located on the top of the diff housing.

The first Inline Tube rear brake line set bought was for a rear drum brake 2005 Liberty that didn’t fit because I ordered the wrong parts. Then bought a Harbor Freight tubing flare set, tubing cutter and pliers made to bend tubing. Tried to salvage the line set and make it work. Inline Tube brake lines are stainless steel and I couldn’t make a decent flare with the Harbor Freight tool and ruined the didn’t fit Inline Tubing. I ended up buying 3/16” steel tubing, tubing bender and another tubing flare set from AutoZone. Took about 7 tries before the flares looked acceptable. There is now a fabricated tube on the driver side and 85% original tube with brass flared union to hold the extension on the passenger side. Will gravity bleed/test for leaks tomorrow and will order the right tube set just in case. Got the fuel pump harness, in tank fuel pump and 2 micron fuel filter from WWDiesel installed. Still got to install the tank and track down a voltage problem.

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2005 Silver Liberty CRD
Provent, 3.7 intake, K+N filter
ARP studs, Hemi pu tcm
In tank harness/fuel pump
Airtex rear bag, Fujimoto valve
Upgraded lifters, exhaust valves, fuel head
Florida torque converter, ID trans pump
Transgo shift kit, GM fan
2 micron filter, Bilstein shocks
Viscous heater delete

daytona701:

Are you sure it is the caliper that is giving you issues?

It could also be the brake backing plate.... they hold down the emergency brake hardware and are a flimsy design. The backing plates tend to rot out because they are made of carbon steel and are thin as they do not hold the caliper, nor do they anchor the emergency brake shoes. If they rot out, the hardware is no longer secured properly. This can cause the emergency brakes to either bind on and not release, or not engage at all.

P.M. has been sent to follow up on your earlier inquiry.

Got the rear brakes sorted. Liberty stops well but brake pedal travel seems excessive. Brakes don’t engage till pedal is depressed about halfway to floor. Pedal does feel soft. Gravity bled rear brakes and brake reservoir was never more than 3/4 down. Don’t believe it’s air in the system. Thinking the brake master cylinder may be at fault. New in tank pump works excellent. Started Liberty yesterday morning early when is was cool. Cycles key on twice about 15 seconds each time. Engine started after cranking about 2 seconds. Idle is rock solid.

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2005 Silver Liberty CRD
Provent, 3.7 intake, K+N filter
ARP studs, Hemi pu tcm
In tank harness/fuel pump
Airtex rear bag, Fujimoto valve
Upgraded lifters, exhaust valves, fuel head
Florida torque converter, ID trans pump
Transgo shift kit, GM fan
2 micron filter, Bilstein shocks
Viscous heater delete

Simple, you for sure have air in the lines, you need to do the old 3 pump hold and crack lines then repeat, after about 3 per side all the air should be out


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Yep. If it was master cylinder, either the pedal would go slowly all the way down when kept under pressure or you would have probs with stopping.

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Grumpy turtle from Finland, deep in a swamp at Balkans... Safe place in this unsafe world...