2005 CRD swap into fj40

krb · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2022 12:51 pm

I’ll be back home this weekend and will give my Provent another peek and maybe both sides of the cooler and give you an update. I think mine is leaking a tad, I was seeing an oily residdue on the intake side, been trying to isolate it short of taking it out yet again and doing a bubble test.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 01, 2022 11:12 am

fjdiesel wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Sweet, love the conversion, know you will enjoy it.

As to your question, it is data bus overload according to what I have learned and read. The Jeep Liberty Diesel uses a (PCI) data bus system.
If communications with the Data Connector Module you have plugged in become overloaded, the ECM will default to a non-communication mode to protect the more important functions of the ECM for operation of the engine.
You may want to try some different data monitor connectors and find one that does not overload the data highway.
A hardwired bus connector may be better suited for full time communication?
Maybe some others on here can chime in as to what they have had good success with....

Thanks!! So far I am really impressed. I hope to get some bugs wrapped up here quickly and get some mile on it this summer! I was hoping to post a lot more, but it was a hard push to get it in and running this winter.

Good to know about the PCI bus. Yes, I hope others share some more data on a workaround. Thanks!

I still need to reach out to Yeti and ask him some questions about the data bus..
But in the meantime I am gonna quit using the UltraGauge and I have ordered a BIM module from Dakota digital that is made for our J1850 communications. It should at least give me a Tach, CEL and hopefully a few other things that do not overload the ECU.

krb · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2022 11:54 am

I think I have around 10K on my Provent and today I drained about 6oz of THICK black oil out of it. About the consistency of 90w maybe.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2022 2:22 pm

krb wrote:

I think I have around 10K on my Provent and today I drained about 6oz of THICK black oil out of it. About the consistency of 90w maybe.

Nice!! Better than in the intercooler!! Thanks for the update. I will be plumbing one in soon. right now I just have a hose on the CCV.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2022 3:29 pm

Well, I stand corrected on the computer protocol... We have 9141 and Dakota Digital does not have a module that will communicate with it.. So I have a message to Yeti to see if they have anything over the pond so I can get a CEL and Tach signal...

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2022 12:27 pm

I haven't posted in a month..

Been busy driving the 40!! We have put 1600 miles on it already! Love the new power plant and auto trans!

Lots of little things to do, including that I need to get a Yeti tune yet... But a lot of stuff is gonna wait till winter. Just because I want to use it.

Filled up this morning and its getting 23 mpg. Not bad, I am sure it will be better once it is tuned.

THREED · **Posted:** Mon Jul 11, 2022 5:15 pm

Love the swap, please keep us updated on mileage and upgrades!

krb · **Posted:** Tue Jul 12, 2022 4:54 am

1,600 trouble free miles?

Think you found the final swap?

Hullza17 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 17, 2021 5:55 pm **Posts:** 2

user113 wrote:

fjdiesel wrote:

Thanks. I do have some questions on the transmission???

Is it better to buy a newer used unit, since it would have the newer front pump style?

And do you have to replace the TC on the newer units? Or are the newer hemi units strong enough?

Justifying to figure out if the used one is better or if I should put a front pump, TC, and a shift kit in the one I have???

I don't think getting a newer or older unit matters, the front pump assembly can be swapped out. As to the torque converter, there was a program to "fix" the weak torque converters in the CRDs, basically it was just a computer update to reduce the engine power so as to not overpower the converter. Some fix! (Search "F37".) As to which upgraded torque converter, search around on the forum, there's lots of discussion; Suncoast and Florida get high praise. I got mine swapped out with with the "euro" unit. I'm not sure a straight hemi unit is the best choice due to its stall speed.

Getting the valve body worked on would be good too, i.e., a transgo shift kit or an experienced transmission shop doing a custom job.

the 4.7 hemi converter is the same part number as the "euro spec" unit, both the 4.7 and 5.7 hemi converters have the same stall speed as the "diesel" converters.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 15, 2022 2:34 pm

Good to know!! Thanks.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 15, 2022 5:19 pm

Hullza17 wrote:

the 4.7 hemi converter is the same part number as the "euro spec" unit, both the 4.7 and 5.7 hemi converters have the same stall speed as the "diesel" converters.

My understanding is the SunCoast TC and Florida TC have lower stall speed ratings along with much higher torque handling capabilities.

Some TC ratings are hard to come by!

Had this on file:
TORQUE CONVERTER RATINGS
Stock Mopar OEM TC is rated for: 300 ft. lbs. max (406 Nm)
Mopar Euro TC is rated for: 400 ft. lbs. max (~ 542 Nm)
Hemi TC is rated for: ~400-450 ft. lbs.?
Florida TC is rated for: (*ft. lb. ratings not found) (400 BELOW FACTORY stall speed)
Suncoast CRD-1ES TC is rated for: 600 ft. lbs. max (813 Nm) (1800 rpm stall speed)

Quote:

What is Stall Speed
Torque converter stall speed is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in an automatic transmission-equipped vehicle while the transmission is in a forward operating range without generating any driveshaft motion.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2022 10:16 am

I went with the SunCoast and am very happy with it so far. Only have about 2k for miles on the swap.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2022 11:04 am

I just wanted to throw a couple updates out..

I have about 3500 miles on it so far. Running great. That being said, I have 4 ecu's... GDE ecotune, Malone hot tune, stock, and Yeti custom eco tune. I just wanted to let everyone know what I thought of them. Hands down the Yeti tune in my opinion is the best tune. The egt temps were the best with the Yeti and GDE. But the GDE felt like the timing would ping on it. The Malone tune just smelt like raw fuel all the time.. With the Yeti tune the timing sounds way better and I don't get the raw fuel smell at all, which is awesome, especially when going slow on the trails.

I will say the fj40 stock radiator is too small for the 2.8, so this winter I will be redesigning the cooling system.

A friend of mine is almost done with his 40 putting in the new Cummins 2.8l. We are looking forward to seeing how they compare. I will let you all know, just for fun.

krb · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2022 4:57 am

Very interesting & good info!

Did you send the ECU's off for programing or download yourself?

Are you running a shroud with the OEM radiator?

Very interested in hearing the comparison with the Cummins. Sounds like you will be the happier overall I'm guessing.

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2022 9:54 am

I programmed myself, kinda. lol. On the Malone tune I had a Flashzilla from my VW swap. So they just erased it and sent the CRD tune. On the GDE I bought a used all the computers(and the skim module) from a guy with the tune, it came with the GDE tuning module. For the Yeti tune a buddy set up a computer for me to flash the ECU with the file from Yeti. I could have pirated the Yeti tune, but I wanted to pay him for his R&D. He only charged me a couple hundred bucks to tune it, delete the codes I didn't need, program in the cold start package. He did a beautiful job!!

Yes, I built a shroud for the stock radiator, and it helped a ton. I have not overheated it, the temp just starts to creep when I am going 70-75 I have backed off the throttle before it over heated. I have only let it get up to 206F. But, my plan is to go out west with it. So I want to make sure it is cool when the AC is on, climbing hills with our popup camper in tow, etc..

My buddy with the Cummins swap should be back from CO with his this week. We are both looking forward to driving each others to compare. I see a few things that company has done that I am gonna copy. One is a massive radiator. Which, when I saw that I just thought of my temp creep and figured they already knew that happened???

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2022 2:45 pm

Are you running the V8 GM fan and HD fan clutch?
It really makes a big difference in helping to hold down engine temperatures especially when the engine is under load going uphill and / or pulling a loaded trailer. It provides a lot more air flow through the radiator stack compared to the OEM fan blade and clutch.
After pioneering and installing the V8 HD GM Fan & Clutch on my Jeep CRD several years ago, I have never had any more greater than normal engine temperature issues even when pulling a 4k loaded trailer in my GA 100+ temperatures and super high humidity.
I also added two large functional hood louvers to help remove heat out of the engine compartment.

I still encountered some higher than normal transmission temperature concerns when towing in high ambient temperatures & humidity conditions, but I completely solved that with the extra Derale fluid cooler and a deep sump PML oil pan.

Yeti's tune is steller, been running his stage IV Hot tune continuously since way back in April of 2014 and it totally "Rocks" in every way! Great power, good fuel mileage (when I keep my foot out of it :lol:

), and no visible black smoke out the exhaust pipe. :JEEPIN:

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2022 5:38 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Are you running the V8 GM fan and HD fan clutch?
It really makes a big difference in helping to hold down engine temperatures especially when the engine is under load going uphill and / or pulling a loaded trailer. It provides a lot more air flow through the radiator stack compared to the OEM fan blade and clutch.
After pioneering and installing the V8 HD GM Fan & Clutch on my Jeep CRD several years ago, I have never had any more greater than normal engine temperature issues even when pulling a 4k loaded trailer in my GA 100+ temperatures and super high humidity.
I also added two large functional hood louvers to help remove heat out of the engine compartment.

I still encountered some higher than normal transmission temperature concerns when towing in high ambient temperatures & humidity conditions, but I completely solved that with the extra Derale fluid cooler and a deep sump PML oil pan.

Yeti's tune is steller, been running his stage IV Hot tune continuously since way back in April of 2014 and it totally "Rocks" in every way! Great power, good fuel mileage (when I keep my foot out of it :lol:

), and no visible black smoke out the exhaust pipe. :JEEPIN:

I have the 3.7l gas fan blade and hd crd fan clutch.

I had read a while ago that you did that upgrade on the GM parts. I was planning to do those this winter when I change radiators as well. Do you have the part numbers handy?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2022 11:52 pm

fjdiesel wrote:

I have the 3.7l gas fan blade and hd crd fan clutch.
I had read a while ago that you did that upgrade on the GM parts. I was planning to do those this winter when I change radiators as well. Do you have the part numbers handy?

The 3.7 gas fan & stock CRD fan clutch will not move as much air flow as the heavy duty 11 blade GM fan & fan clutch for the 6.0L V8 engine.

The GM Fan & Fan Clutch is designed for the GM 6.0L V8 engine with HD cooling, AC, w/towing package.
*ACDelco Fan Clutch PN: 20913877 or *GM Severe Duty Fan Clutch NAPA PN: TEM 271625
*Hayden Fan Clutch PN: HY 2786 or *Four Seasons PN: 36973

*ACDelco GM 11 Blade Fan: PN: 15976889 or NAPA PN: 8552223 or Dorman 620-602 Engine Cooling Fan

Requires four (4) GM PN: 11516869 Metric mounting bolts [4 M10X1.5X18mm bolts (mounts fan to fan clutch)
------These bolts can also be sourced at most hardware and building supply stores.-------

*Note: The Hayden, Four Seasons, and GM/ACDelco parts can also be found online at Amazon, Rock Auto, and several of the GM Parts Vendors.

:SOMBRERO:

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 09, 2022 3:12 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

fjdiesel wrote:

I have the 3.7l gas fan blade and hd crd fan clutch.
I had read a while ago that you did that upgrade on the GM parts. I was planning to do those this winter when I change radiators as well. Do you have the part numbers handy?

The 3.7 gas fan & stock CRD fan clutch will not move as much air flow as the heavy duty 11 blade GM fan & fan clutch for the 6.0L V8 engine.

The GM Fan & Fan Clutch is designed for the GM 6.0L V8 engine with HD cooling, AC, w/towing package.
*ACDelco Fan Clutch PN: 20913877 or *GM Severe Duty Fan Clutch NAPA PN: TEM 271625
*Hayden Fan Clutch PN: HY 2786 or *Four Seasons PN: 36973

*ACDelco GM 11 Blade Fan: PN: 15976889 or NAPA PN: 8552223 or Dorman 620-602 Engine Cooling Fan

Requires four (4) GM PN: 11516869 Metric mounting bolts [4 M10X1.5X18mm bolts (mounts fan to fan clutch)
------These bolts can also be sourced at most hardware and building supply stores.-------

*Note: The Hayden, Four Seasons, and GM/ACDelco parts can also be found online at Amazon, Rock Auto, and several of the GM Parts Vendors.

Thank you sir!!!

:SOMBRERO:

fjdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Dec 16, 2022 6:43 pm

I got the GM fan and clutch. And a larger radiator from Mishimoto. I will be working on that modification this winter. And hooking up the AC at the same time!!

2005 CRD swap into fj40

Who is online