fjdiesel wrote:
I spoke to them again on the Skim delete. $199.00 for the delete. I am sending the ECU out to them. I will update next week with how it went. If you have a used ECU they can put your vin in it at the same time. Keeping my fingers crossed this works.
Yes, please post how that goes. I just spent $1200 for a refurbished ECU. I thought it would work without the SKIM installed, because that's the normal process to delete the SKIM (install a re-flashed ECU without the SKIM installed). Well, it DID NOT WORK. The ECU kept shutting the engine down after 3 seconds and would not work without the SKIM installed. So, I reluctantly put the SKIM back in, and at least now it runs. I think perhaps the SKIM software in these things is in read-only-memory and not programmable. I'll be very interested to see if your guy in CO can do a SKIM delete. Please post when you have results.
Follow up on my refurbished ECU. I tried installed a rebuilt, newly reflashed ECU with the SKIM removed. The ECU would not accept that and kept shutting the engine off after 3 seconds. So, I went ahead and put the SKIM back in, and then it started and ran. Actually, the new ECU only lasted a week and now I am back to a "won't even turn over" situation. I'm totally baffled. Battery checks out perfect. No shorts or electrical drains. I'm ready to sell the thing for parts. I had thought it was just the SKIM, and I do still get the SKIM light, but it's not even clicking or turning over, so must be something else going on.
Well, that only lasted a couple of days. Back to not starting, even though battery checks out fine. Some screwy disconnect between ECU, SKIM, and key, I guess. Hoping a SKIM delete will fix it, if that's possible.
One of my nephews, who is a mechanic, brought his pro grade scanner over and checked it out. He found a disconnect between the ECU, SKIM, and key, and managed to straighten that out. I have the Liberty running again, at least for the moment. I was also able to load my GDE Eco-Tune program into the new ECU, which got rid of most of the faults I was getting. Keeping my fingers crossed it holds up.
Although I am still interested in the SKIM delete, I now believe most, if not all, of my problems are from a bad connection to or in the FCM (Gateway) module. Apparently the FCM communicates with both the ECU and the SKIM and can cause the issues I have been experiencing. I'll post how it turns out.
update 9/26/21. Still no joy. Got a used FCM and plugged it in. SKIM light only goes off for a second when key is turned on, and won't turn over at all. Beyond frustrated now.
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