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 Post subject: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2020 7:52 pm
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Location: New Mexico
So my transmission starts acting up after getting off the highway. 1st gear to 2nd is good but 2nd to 3rd it’s as if it doesn’t want to shift and I really have to go up in rpms in order to shift. Also starts making a really loud whining noise at this point. Any Ideas what it could be?

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2018 10:05 pm
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Have you checked your trans fluid level? Known problem that the dipstick is to long and does not show the correct level. Also, this trans likes to have an extra quart of fluid..only use ATF+4

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05 CRD Limited; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, gen 2 fuel head, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper adjustable trilink w/WW custom mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gears, front and rear air lockers


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 12:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2020 7:52 pm
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Location: New Mexico
03black wrote:
Have you checked your trans fluid level? Known problem that the dipstick is to long and does not show the correct level. Also, this trans likes to have an extra quart of fluid..only use ATF+4
Sorry about the very late response I had gotten busy and never got the chance to check.

I just checked and the fluid is nice and red and it was just about over the hot dot on the stick. I’ll wait for it to cool down and see what it’s at at cold


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
Located in New Mexico
Owned since Aug 2018


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:14 pm 
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Most simply add an extra 1/2 to 1 full quart ATF+4 to get the level up above the full mark.
It makes the transmission a lot happier! :rockon:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
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Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
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GM11 bld.fan/NAPAHDClutch
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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 3:35 pm 
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Location: Hillsboro. OR
Are there any codes? I just fixed my transmission. I had P0700 along with P0871. Anytime I drove aggressively it would set these codes and stick in third gear. Turned out to be Solenoid Switch Valve was stuck. Shop that worked on it said they had to pull it out with pliers because it was stuck and not moving freely. Shifting in first second third is great now for once.

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2006 Liberty CRD 235K, JBA 2.5 with Fox Shocks, GDE Turbo Kit, GDE TCM Tune, Suncoast TC, OEM fuel filter housing converted to fit Caterpillar Fuel Filter 1R-0749, OEM themostat housing modified to accept Hemi 203 F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:25 pm 
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Location: SoCal
Another suggestion, when was the last time you serviced/changed out both filters in the trans? Could be that the filers are clogged up and a new filters and fresh fluid could help with shifting. Also, a good time to pull out the solenoid pack/valve body and give it a good cleaning.

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05 CRD Limited; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, gen 2 fuel head, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper adjustable trilink w/WW custom mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gears, front and rear air lockers


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 5:38 am 
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Location: Central KY
Good to know.
Is there a mileage point that this is suggested? And do you know of any write ups or how-tos that you could recommend?
Thanks,

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2005 Liberty CRD, with 111,XXX miles. New rockers, exhaust valves, Provent, EGR block & butterfly delete & V6 air box

1998 XJ 4.0L, stock with 109,XXX miles

First Jeep: 1962 Willys CJ-3B


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 9:29 am 
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Here is a write up I did on another fourm:

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
1. Things you need to get started:
a. The 4L80Etransmission system holds almost 14 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 16 quarts of ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the requirements.
b. I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change.
c. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
d. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. Changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug.
a. If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
b. Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
c. Change the filter.
d. Replace the pan..
3. Pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan (5 quarts). At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.
4. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.
5. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.
6. Repeat step 5 until you have added 13.5 quarts with of new ATF to the system.

a. At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
7. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
8. Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.
9. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:23 pm 
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Here is the way I did it (disclaimer, this is how I did my servicing, only you know your experience level, so do so at your own risk):
This was for the 54RFE trans on the Liberty CRD:

1) Purchased a small 12v suction pump (I think it was like $15 on amazon), comes with small attachment hoses that you can run down the dipstick tube to suck out all the fluid. Pumped out about 2.5 gals (used old milk jugs to make less of a mess). Hint: start jeep up and let run for about 5 mins to warm up the fluid before pumping, makes the fluid a bit easier to pump out. This won't get 100% of all the fluid but it does get about 90% of it.
2) Slide under the jeep (mine is lifted 4" so no jacks or ramp needed), remove skid plate (if applicable)
3) Remove all the trans pan bolts but don't remove the corner bolts, only loosen them
4) Using a non-marring tool (think plastic interior trim removal tool) loosen/remove the pan. The pan bolts in the corner keep it from dropping down completely.
5) Put your oil catch pan (or equivalent) under the trans pan and loosen/remove one of the aft corner bolts and drop the pan enough to catch the rest of the trans fluid. Depending on how much you loosed the other bolts will determine how much the pan will lower down.
6) Once all the fluid is done draining, remove the rest of the pan bolts and remove pan from trans.
7) While the rest of fluid is dripping into your catch pan, clean up the matting surface(s) of the pan and transmission. Again use a non marring tool (plastic scrapper) to remove any left over sealant or gasket material. You do not want to gouge or bend the edge of the pan or it will leak later on.
8 ) Clean up the inside of the pan and pan magnet. Inspect the magnet for any large metal particles. Very fine (smaller than sand granules) is expected as this is the friction material from the clutches. Anything bigger or chunks will be of great concern and you should think about taking the trans to a shop for additional evaluation.
9) For the large flat filter, remove the retaining bolt and pop out the filter. Be sure that the rubber O-ring is also removed with the old filter (it should be on the filter neck). Sometimes it stays inside the transmission, and a small flat head jewelers screwdriver will get it out.
10) Using a lint free rag/towel clean up the underside of the transmission. I sprayed down the area down with brake clean to get any residue off
11) Remove the small spin on filter (looks like an oil filter). It will be on tight, but it will come off. Again, be sure that the metal O-ring comes out with the the old filter. Mine was stuck so I had to gingerly use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out
12) Now is the time if you want to remove the valve body to clean out the gunk in the solenoids. I did not. The detergent in the new fluid will do that

13) Install new filter...Spin on
13a) For the spin on filter...Install the new metal O-ring. I used a socket of the appropriate diameter to seat the O-ring. It only goes on one way. You'll understand once you see it.
13b) Install spin on filter, I believe there is a torque value in the service manual but I just really snugged it on.

14) Install new filter...Flat filter
14a) Install new O-ring onto the filter neck (use a bit of fresh trans fluid to assist it on)
14b) Install flat filter into trans and make sure it is seated
14c) Reinstalled filter bolt and torque to applicable value in service manual...something like 20in lbs

15) Install new pan gasket...If using a cork gasket, put a dab of gray gasket maker on the corners of the pan to hold gasket in place. If not using cork gasket, lay a bead of gray gasket maker sealant around the edge of the pan. I also used a flat wooden stir stick to flatten out the bead of sealant and spread it around to cover the edge of the pan and around its bolts holes. Thickness of the sealant should not be so thick that a squeeze's out into inside of the pan, just enough to make a good seal. Remember, that any large amount of sealant that gets squeegeed into the inside of the pan may come loose and clog your filters/solenoids.
16) Install pan and installed pan bolts, torque them to the specified range per the service manual...something like 95in lbs.
17) I let the the sealant setup overnight before I refilled the trans just to be sure there would be no leaks. You don't have to but at least let it setup for a hour.
18) Using a long neck funnel, fill trans with ATF+4 (pick your brand, there all the same, at least from what I read, I used supertech from Wally World), through the dipstick tube and fill to the COLD mark line on the dipstick
19) Start engine and cycle through the gears stopping in each gear for at least 5 secs (P,R,N,D,2,1...1,2,D,N,R,P)
20) Once engine gets to operating temp, check the trans fluid level on dipstick and fill to full HOT mark line then add about 1/2 quart more.
21) Take the Jeep out for a drive and then come back and recheck fluid level...add fluid as necessary.

I know this sounds like a lot of steps/work but it really only took me about an hour to do all of this. But your experience level may very. Use only Mopar filters, anything else may not have the anti drain back valve on the filters and it may cause delay shifting on 1st startup from park to drive.
Also, I laid down large pieces of cardboard so that any fluid that does spill will be soaked up by that vs having it spill on the concrete, makes cleanup a lot easier.

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05 CRD Limited; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, gen 2 fuel head, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper adjustable trilink w/WW custom mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gears, front and rear air lockers


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission long shift and whining
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2021 4:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 6:33 am
Posts: 346
Location: Central KY
Wow, GREAT info guys. I'll save and read up.
Many thanks!

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2005 Liberty CRD, with 111,XXX miles. New rockers, exhaust valves, Provent, EGR block & butterfly delete & V6 air box

1998 XJ 4.0L, stock with 109,XXX miles

First Jeep: 1962 Willys CJ-3B


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