PROBABLY THE WORST CASE OF P0299 EVER! HELLLLLP!

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Hey everyone, I've have been dealing with a limp mode, lack of power issue with my 2006 liberty 2.8.
I was dealing with a hot start issue and intermittent limp mode while accelerating up 1 hill on my daily commute home.
Took her home, noticed that there was an injector leak on cylinder 1.
Decided to take her in to a local shop that agreed to do the work on it, took them a couple days, they ended up re-sealing all 4 injectors with all new hardware and reinstalled all 4 back in. Went and pick it up, they informed me that they noticed a large exhaust leak, and that it would need to be looked at and fixed soon, anyway, I paid them, jumped in my jeep, fired it up, and away we went. something wasn't quite right about it, it was almost like it was in a limp mode, would not go over 60kmh up hills on the highway.
Called the shop the next day, took it in and the assured me all the work they did was correct, and then charged me $157 for a scan.
I was not too pleased about that, so I ended up doing a fair bit of research, and ordered up the modulators and solenoids for the turbo side in hopes of getting rid of the p0299 code i was now getting. I also replaced the map maf aibox pressure sensors, no luck.
so I called around and found a shop about 50km away from where I was that told me YES we have worked on them and had amazing success with them! Perfect I thought!
Loaded the jeep up on a trailer, and towed her to this diesel "specialist".... let's just call them that.
Dropped it off, told them what was up, and left.. long story short haha
They had it from mid June, until today. December 23rd.
In that time. They replaced, the exhaust manifold along with all new studs and new hardware, a new turbo, a egr delete, and had my ecu sent out for re-tuning. No luck, it's still stuck in some sort of limp mode, and the shop it was at has given up.
I went up tonite, and put in a brand new NTK EH0393 crankshaft position sensor and a brand new battery, because battery's don't like to sit for 6 months apparently
Anyway, did that, let her warm up, and went for a drive. Still no luck. Only thing that changed, was my check engine light cake on, scanned it, and got a p0093 fuel leak code, changed the fuel filter and nothing. I don't know what to do anymore.
So here I am, 6.5 months later, $6500 bucks out and my beloved jeep is still not working. So if any of you out there have any idea of what I could be dealing with, please. Please help
Thanks for your time.

Steve

List of parts replaced.
-Injector seals
-maf
-map
Turbo vacuum solenoid
Turbo vacuum modulator
Turbo
Exhaust manifold with new studs and gaskets
Egr delete
Ecu tuned for egr delete
Fuel filter
Crankshaft position sensor
In tank lift pump

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:15 pm

Just curious, where are you located? Maybe someone closeby can help you?
Has anyone checked the cam/crank timing on the engine?
Do you know what the fuel rail pressure is doing when you get into the limp mode?
What is the boost pressure when pulling hills and it goes into limp mode?

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

It's getting around 7000psi at idle on first initial start up.
And close to 23,000psi when accelerating
And around 8 pounds of boost, maybe 11 max.
And I live on vancouver Island british columbia.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:34 pm

2.8CRDKJ wrote:

It's getting around 7000psi at idle on first initial start up.
And close to 23,000psi when accelerating
And around 8 pounds of boost, maybe 11 max.
And I live on vancouver Island british columbia.

Boost pressure looks way to low for engine load and RPM.

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Yes, it is.
But my question is why. Why is it still low? It has new maf, map, solenoids, modulators, new turbo. Egr delete. Tuned ecu. New crank sensor, air and fuel filter, fresh oil and filter.... it's confusing me, and many local shops around here. We've got a foot of snow here and I sure would like to have my jeep!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:42 pm

There are many things that can affect boost, you have already covered some of them.
First I would see how much vacuum I have at the turbo controls, a small vacuum gauge with some tubing and a Tee can tell you this.
You should have full vacuum at the vacuum solenoid and at the turbo modulator valve when the key is on and engine running.
Then I would test to see what vacuum you am getting at the turbo vane controller AT the turbo when accelerating and getting the low boost numbers.
If all that looks good, I would install a mechanical boost gauge to compare it to what you are seeing electronically through the ECM.
Remember, the MAP sensor is supplying those boost numbers, so if the MAP is giving the wrong signal to the ECM, it will affect everything with the running of the engine.
You said it was EGR deleted, so is the FCV removed? If it is still on the engine, the butterfly may be stuck partly closed limiting boost.
If the boost is actually low and it is getting normal fuel levels, you should be seeing lots of black smoke when accelerating uphill with those low boost numbers.
Boost hoses, CAC leaks, must be ruled out!
You got to start ruling out each system one at a time to figure out which one is causing the problem. :juggle:

Wish you were closer, I could help in the testing, I have the equipment.

uncaged · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:58 pm

You mentioned a P0093 "fuel leak" code as well. In my case, that turned out to be the Fuel Quantity Solenoid on the back of the CP3 injection pump, right below the alternator.

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Where abouts is the fcv?
And I think the egr unit is still on it, should it be unplugged?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 9:05 pm

You listed in your original post "EGR Deleted", can you expound in detail exactly what has been removed, blocked off, removed, etc.... and what is still in the air flow/boost circuit?
Are you talking mechanically as in all EGR parts removed, or just disabled via a tune *electronically (*NOT A TRUE EGR DELETE!)?
Makes a HUGE difference in trying to help you diagnose your problem!
If your engine still has the the EGR valve and FCV on and in service on the engine, it brings on a different level of conversation.

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Ok, so, when I bought the jeep back in August of 2020.
The guy I bought it off of had blocked off the egr pipe from the exhaust, and blocked off on the intake.
If I remember correctly, the egr unit is still attached to the engine. The shop it was at told me that both the exhaust and intake elbow had been blocked off "poorly" and that they had redone the plugs in both and also had the ecu tuned for the "delete"

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2022 1:29 am

2.8CRDKJ wrote:

Ok, so, when I bought the jeep back in August of 2020.
The guy I bought it off of had blocked off the egr pipe from the exhaust, and blocked off on the intake.
If I remember correctly, the egr unit is still attached to the engine. The shop it was at told me that both the exhaust and intake elbow had been blocked off "poorly" and that they had redone the plugs in both and also had the ecu tuned for the "delete"

OK, it is blocked off, NOT deleted, it makes a difference! FYI, NO tune no matter how good can fully prevent EGR valve leakby, only a block off plate or total removal of the entire EGR system can guarantee no leakby.
Next, if the FCV is still in place, the butterfly inside it can stick or hang partly closed and limit boost and air flow into the intake manifold. The mechanical gears inside the FCV gearbox are notorious for stripping and hanging up. If your FCV is still in place, you need to remove the butterfly plate out of the center of it to rule out it being part of your limited boost issue. Remove boost hose, unplug the wire connector to the FCV, then remove the four allen head screws holding it together, then you will have the FCV in your hand. Now remove the two small torx screws holding the butterfly plate to the shaft and slide it out to remove it; it will slide right out. Then reassemble.
see picture.
Once this is done, it is ruled out as a problem! (eliminated)

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Ok, I will do that to it.
Would it also be a good idea to move ahead and do a proper egr delete on it? Take off the entire egr system?

krb · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2022 2:49 am

And just to clarify further. Is it running the same as before all this work (ie bad) or is it running even worse? Lots of variables going on now after two "mechanics" had at it.

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

It is running the same.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2022 11:17 am

2.8CRDKJ wrote:

Ok, I will do that to it.
Would it also be a good idea to move ahead and do a proper egr delete on it? Take off the entire egr system?

At this point, your blockoff will suffice, just remove the butterfly plate out of the FCV to rule it out as the problem.
I would not make any major changes until you find out what is causing the issues.

With it's recent record of work performed as you described, it has already had way to many hands on it with enough changes to muddy the water. :banghead:

Got to tackle it one system at a time, rule out each system separately as the problem, then move on to the next system until you identify the one causing the issues.
It is basically a process of elimination! :juggle:

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

Ok, so, I took off the charge hose to the fcv, and the plate is NOT in the fcv. So, now what do I look at...

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:18 pm

you need to rig up and pressurize everything from turbo and check for leaks going forward through intercooler to the engine intake of course you need to control pressure so you do not blow the plastic intercooler.

2.8CRDKJ · **Joined:** Tue Jan 04, 2022 12:48 am **Posts:** 9

That was one of the first things I did.
All the hoses have been replaced as well.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:07 pm

2.8CRDKJ wrote:

Ok, so, I took off the charge hose to the fcv, and the plate is NOT in the fcv. So, now what do I look at...

That's very Good!
Next would be nice to know the vacuum system supply pressure. Vacuum controls the the variable vanes in the turbo, so if the vacuum is incorrect, it could prevent the turbo vane controls from producing the correct boost levels.

PROBABLY THE WORST CASE OF P0299 EVER! HELLLLLP!

Who is online