Can anyone point me to a guide or give me a few tips or tricks on how to get to the rear bolts on either side of the upper control arms? I have already removed the air box for the passenger side, and the battery and battery tray for the driver side. That made removing the front control arm bolts pretty easy. But the rear control arm bolts are nigh impossible to get to and I think a lot of that difficulty is because of the diesel engine dropped in here. Thank you, engineers! I have seen the guide on another forum of a 05 CRD owner replacing his arms, but once he gets to the 2 rear bolts, he does not explain what he did to get to them.

I have some pictures, but I have no idea how to post them on this forum. I've posted this exact title and question on other jeep forums with pictures if anyone wants to see those for reference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, so PLEASE if you have done this before on your CRD let me know what you did to get to these nuts/bolts or what you did to make your life easier trying to do so.

Thank you!

P.S. mechanics want to charge me $1200 for the job. I have the tools and parts, but still trying to improve my skill.

I just did the drivers side on one of mine. Accessed the rear bolt from underneath with a flex head ratchet: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CRW10-R ... B00EXX2JMW

Used a deep socket and then switched to a regular socket when I ran out of room.

My son did the passenger side and I think he did it from underneath too, but I wasn't there when he did it.

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

Did you do it from directly underneath the bolts or did you use extensions and come in at a certain angle? Also did you need to remove anything extra? Thanks

Best way that I found (both on Gas and Diesel Liberty) is to use or put together long extension with a wobble extension in the middle and a universal joint on the socket side (shallow socket) and come in from the front through the grill support.

Remove the grill and there will be a rubber flap (if its still there) around the flog light area, route the length of extensions there is the best way to get a good grasp on the nut to both remove and torque (once full the weight of vehicle is on the ground) to factory specs. Passenger side is a little easier using the same method. The drivers side is difficult due to the steering linkage but it is doable.

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05 CRD; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper trilink w/WW mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gear, front/rear air lockers, ARB bumper, Rock Lizard sliders/roof rack, Mod T-stat

I just did the drivers side on one of mine. Accessed the rear bolt from underneath with a flex head ratchet: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CRW10-R ... B00EXX2JMW

Used a deep socket and then switched to a regular socket when I ran out of room.

My son did the passenger side and I think he did it from underneath too, but I wasn't there when he did it.[/quote]

I have done upper and lowers on both GAS and CRD and like stated above, the driver rear is accessed from underneath, slide your hand up along the frame where the control arm would be and you will feel the bolt and flag nut. I have used both a flex head ratcheting wrench and I also bought the below, need leverage to make sure it is tight, 18mm should be the size. I had to do the rear passenger the same way. FYI, I did not buy the set for over 200.00, I believe I got them off ebay. (I like tools and bought both metric and standard, these stay in the Rubicon tool bag)
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85488 ... 74&sr=1-12

the GAS version was way easier on the passenger side, nothing really there but the airbox. On the driver side for GAS use the long/multiple extension method, really works but I had to remove the computer connections if I remember correctly. (had a 2004 in 2011 and did the full stock suspension replacement on my garage floor)

I live south of Seattle, WA if you need a hand. Not sure where you are but unfortunately, I don't own a plane.

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'06 Solar Yellow SWB, 1" BMML, 1.25" BL, 2" OME HD, Full Traction Shocks from BB, 255/85R16 KM2
'06 Liberty CRD green with budget lift
'43 Willys MB, work in progress
M416 Trailer