2005 CRD wont start

Josh P · **Joined:** Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm **Posts:** 15

I had a similar no start condition that turned out to be the timing belt.

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

Josh P wrote:

I had a similar no start condition that turned out to be the timing belt.

What exactly was your problem, did it jump a few teeth and look fine until you took it all apart?

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

I tore this thing apart and checked the timing. The belt looks like brand new, I was able to line up all of the previously painted timing marks and insert all 3 lock pins without issue.

Summary of where we are:
Replaced crank sensor
Pulled and had each injector tested at a diesel shop
Confirmed that I am getting good rail pressure
Confirmed that I am getting compression on all cylinders
Confirmed that the timing is perfect

I am at a loss of where to go next, this thing simply wont start, throws zero codes and everything that I can think of is confirmed working normally.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 19, 2023 10:31 pm

Painted marks for this engine mean absolutely nothing, they are worthless and a waste of time.
Only the alignment pins inserted at the proper position of the two cams and the crankshaft can 100% verify correct timing.

Since you say you have verified correct timing, and you have proper rail pressure, injectors tested and verified good, crank sensor replaced.
Sounds like your injectors are not getting a signal to fire and inject fuel for some reason?
Could be a bad cam sensor? If the ECM does not receive good signals from several of the different engine control sensors it will not send a signal to inject fuel.

You could buy or rent a set of NOID lights that plugs into one of the injector connectors and this will tell you if the injector is receiving a signal from the ECM to inject.

Where are you located? You do not have a signature posted; it might help if somebody is close by that can help diagnose your issue.

Josh P · **Joined:** Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm **Posts:** 15

atunicus wrote:

Josh P wrote:

I had a similar no start condition that turned out to be the timing belt.

What exactly was your problem, did it jump a few teeth and look fine until you took it all apart?

Sorry I didn't see this sooner, I'm not here on a regular basis and I didn't see a notification. The belt jumped a tooth or two, just enough to not run, but not enough to totally destroy the engine. The #1 and #3 intake valves kissed the pistons. It wasn't until I had the motor apart I realized the full extent of my issue. I scrapped the engine and am swapping a VT275 diesel in it's place.

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

I do realize random paint marks don't mean anything but I got it in time with all of the lock pins.

I am located in Minneapolis MN. This thing wants to run, it sputters a bit while cranking so fuel is making it in to at least some cylinders.

I can also bleed each injector line and confirm that I am getting fuel to each injector.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 20, 2023 1:36 pm

Maybe this can be of help?

(Click on document to enlarge)

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

Thanks, I ordered a new cam sensor since it was it only like 13 dollars on ebay. Ill check out the grounds and some of the fuel pump stuff.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:35 am

Fuel rail pressure with the solenoid plugged in and your foot off the accelerator should be around 1500 psi. Did you unhook the return line on the FRPS and observe no fuel coming out while cranking?

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

DieselJeepLuvr wrote:

Fuel rail pressure with the solenoid plugged in and your foot off the accelerator should be around 1500 psi. Did you unhook the return line on the FRPS and observe no fuel coming out while cranking?

I did not disconnect the return line but that is something I can do. I did confirm the rail pressure you are talking about though. I have also swapped in another fuel rail with the same symptoms (came with all sensors/solenoids still attached).

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

After 2 years of my jeep not running I finally figured it out. After having my injectors tested, checked compression, made sure fuel delivery and rail pressure was good, replaced crank sensor. I tore it all apart and checked the timing, it was perfect. Test fired it with everything stripped down to just the timing belt on and it fired right up no issues.
Checked all of the accessory belt pulleys and found that the alternator was turning rough by hand, must have been locking up under load or turning really hard
Never had an alternator fail that way, they usually just stop charging the battery.

Put a new timing belt kit and alternator on it and it runs fine without any issues. Mostly put back together, will be on the road soon.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 06, 2024 2:28 pm

Glad you found it! So you are saying the alternator was almost locked up internally and it was stalling the engine out preventing it from turning?
Very unusual problem, but stuff does happen. I seen a water pump lock up on a V6 engine one time and it completely stopped the engine from running.

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

It would still turn by hand but with a lot more tension. As it would rotate you could feel it catch harder in a few spots. Definitely something wrong with the bearings.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Feb 11, 2024 2:58 pm

I had a Saab 9000 I sold to a girl once and a few months later the Sheriff calls me about my abandoned car. I told him I sold it but apparently she never titled it in her name. I found out where she was staying and told her if she gave me the title back I'd not charge her to have it towed. She was happy to and told me it started making this squealing sound then just stopped running and figured the motor ceased. I towed it home and was going to part it out and when I grabbed the serpentine belt to confirm it was ceased, everything moved but the alternator. I cut the belt off and it fired right up. Put a new belt and alternator on it and sold it again. :BANANA:

atunicus · **Joined:** Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:11 pm **Posts:** 24

DieselJeepLuvr wrote:

I had a Saab 9000 I sold to a girl once and a few months later the Sheriff calls me about my abandoned car. I told him I sold it but apparently she never titled it in her name. I found out where she was staying and told her if she gave me the title back I'd not charge her to have it towed. She was happy to and told me it started making this squealing sound then just stopped running and figured the motor ceased. I towed it home and was going to part it out and when I grabbed the serpentine belt to confirm it was ceased, everything moved but the alternator. I cut the belt off and it fired right up. Put a new belt and alternator on it and sold it again. :BANANA:

That's a great story, the tricky thing was the motor would turn over fine and the starter didn't seem like it was cranking hard. The alternator was just bad enough to prevent it from running.

Found a chewed through rear abs wire, fix that already, had to toss in a new blower motor resistor, and a new rear door latch so far. Cars fall apart fast when they sit.

Also started cutting out some rusted sheet metal on the doors, I am working on getting that fixed and painted.

2005 CRD wont start

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