Hi there! I was thinking about cleaning injectors with some chem. KJ had injectors regenerated 50k km ago. No bad symptoms so far I guess. Don't want to put anything into the tank. I was thinking about connecting some Liqui Moly stuff in a closed circuit. Could someone help me with a way/instructions to do it properly to bypass fuel tank? Is it even possible to do it easily? Thanks!

I think that since the 20,000 psi fuel actually slowly erodes the steel holes larger over time, that they probably don't need cleaned. Or is that just the contaminants doing the damage?
That, and the fact that they can test 100% after 100,000 miles with zero cleaning or additives (with 2-3 micron fuel filter). Heck, I've seen some pass the Bosch testing with the terrible factory filtration and over 100k miles too, but they usually fail.
I'd just throw some lubricative additive in the tank and know that it's helping the whole system

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

You’re propably right. I just wanted to avoid situation that some „trash” after the cleaning goes to the tank or to the ori filter. Nevertheless if there is someone who knows how to do it I would appreciate it. If not Im gonna put it into the tank. Thanks!

The injectors slowly get plugged and dirty the same way a showerhead does. At work I use Liqui Moly diesel purge at every oil service to keep them clean and it does a good job at cleaning problem ones too. Just add it to the full tank and drive it till it’s low and it will clean for the duration. Also the recommended oil is the 5w40 Liqui moly Leichtlauf regardless of what people say about 15w40 it’s not the right choice. Add some Mos2 to the oil for added protection…


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IF you really want to protect your very expensive injectors and CP3 injection pump from ultra fine micron particles of contamination.
You should add a secondary 2 micron fuel filter to filter the fuel leaving the stock OEM filter before it goes to the CP3 pump.
It does require that you have an intank or external lift pump to run two filter in series.
The factory filter/water separator is at best around 10 microns new and degrades from there.

And there is absolutely nothing wrong with 15W-40 synthetic oil if you live in a warmer climate locations!
Many owners have been using it for too long for if there was a problem, it would have surfaced long ago.
Running good heavier weight synthetic oils on higher mileage engines only helps to protect the rockers/rollers from additional wear.
But to each his own, if you don't like it or don't want to use it, that perfectly ok, but please don't denigrate what many have already proven is a good maintenance practice for our vehicles.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Bobistheoilguy.com I suggest you do some reading ww, that’s an old school mentality, film strength and protection are very different, there is more that makes up an oil than that and it’s the additives that matter. With 15w40 you are starving the engine of oil at startup whereas the 5w40 has a much better flow rate especially important with the small passages in the engine. If you want film strength switch to 10w60, it’s what we run in the naturally aspirated bmw M cars and older air cooled Porsches.


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The problem these engines have with oil wasn’t because of the wrong selection 0W 40 is a good oil the problem was people were using mobil one 0w40 and it’s garbage oil… every Porsche we’ve ever seen at the shop with an IMS bearing issue has been using mobile one. The mobile one 0W 40 lacks the additives needed for protection and is a very low spec oil because Liqui Moly, Motul, redline and others have been used for a long time and the vehicles that use those oils never had the IMS bearing issues… this knowledge comes from other Porsche mechanics at many Porsche classes I pay to go to so the problem with the Jeeps wasn’t that 0W 40 doesn’t offer protection at start up like a lot of people think the problem was the mobile one 0w 40 is crap oil then again I don’t really recommend mobile one for anything.


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Been running schaeffers 15w40 for 3 years now, Ohio cold winter and all. When I did the 100k t-belt in '19 I used old, but good looking, rockers (money was tight and it was better than the completely shot ones in it). The lash adjusters were frozen solid, after free'ing them up I finished the install and filled it up with 15w40 since.

Fast forward to winter of '22, I popped the cam cover off and all the rockers were still just like I installed them.

My engine has never run quieter or smoother than when using 15w40.

I'm a firm believer the 0w/5w40 is what helps kills these motors.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

You can pull them and soak them in an injector cleaner. after a bit brush them down with a brass wire brush. Do Not use a steel brush. But this isn't enough. I took mime to a Botch Certified Shop to have then tested. All where tried. They had 178K on them. The VL should be 87.2. The closet one was 78.5. I found a set of Botch remains from Express Diesels. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174462090721?s ... 2749.l2649. I check them out and they are a Botch Certified Dealer.

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2006 KJ CRD AMSOIL Fluids, AMSOIL Oil Filter, AMSOIL ByPass Filter, Secondary Fuel Filter, Provent, Silicone Hoses, Rotomaster Turbo
2013 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Premium Plus
1948 T4 Willis Pickup
1993 C3500 Chevy 6.5 Turbo Diesel
1984 C7500 Chevy Flat Bed 366 gas
1987 R25 Chevy 350 gas

Yep and at 280k miles plus my wife’s is still running strong on the original rockers and 5w40… it’s about the additives and high saps oil not oil weight.. there is more to an oil than the weight and synthetic vs non synthetic… again bobistheoilguy.com read up and do some learning. I realize I get more education on the subject as I do this for a living but read up so you know what’s involved in oil. I run into the same problem every day at work even with professional mechanics, the problem is as Americans we no lack knowledge on oil, heck there was an oil salesman who stopped by and I sent him to do reading and it blew his mind and he sold oil for a living. There is acea ratings and hths and high saps and low saps and many more things that make oils different. Just this week we sent an Audi to the dealer to have the dpf replaced under warranty, it was plugged because he has been using the wrong oil for the last 3 years. Last week we had a vw with worn out cams because he was using the wrong oil, it was the right weight but the wrong spec. All i am saying is do the reading for yourself and get educated on oil before you make judgments about what’s the best. I can assure you a high saps hths rated oil with 2500ppm calcuim like the leichtlauf offers 10x the protection that any 15w40 does especially for a dual overhead cam roller rocker high speed Italian turbo Diesel engine


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I use diesel purge too with good result too, one in the filter one in the tank. I also try the BG one lately, even better. very expensive too.

You are right about oil too most people don't understand oil even most mechanics.

While you're reading up, research why 15w40 is reccomended in these engines overseas, and why it was switched to 0w/5w here...

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

We use to sell BG but after our own testing and the pain to get the guy to come by the shop we ditched all the BG all together, we found the liquimoly products actually worked better. I have fixed several direct injected engines with the jectron di and saved the injectors


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I would reach out to Keith if I were you, I just checked again and yep overseas they used the 5w40 not the 15w40 plus Keith said the same thing so I’d like to see your info. The difference between 15w40 and 5w40 is the 5w40 flows much better if we are just comparing oil weights but it goes deeper than that

This is DIRECT from a European website for Europe’s largest oil mfgs i logged on from Great Britain and the only thing that comes up is 5w40 on ALL of them

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/servic ... 7951e7d2e/

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/lubricants/ ... 908480140c

https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-ki ... ent=engine

https://valvoline-eu.lubricantadvisor.c ... 01294e82e0

https://www.texacolubricants.com/en_uk/ ... ector.html

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As for injectors:
Interesting! Ive always thought doing closed circuit will have best results with chem stuff, but maybe the difference with other methods is just so small its not worth it. Ill propably put it into the tank. When putting it into ori fuel filter should I do it with a new one, or just empty the old?

As for oil:
Dont know bout oils much, just basic knowledge. Owners manual said one thing as I remember but I trusted my local Jeep mechanics and the put 5w40.

I dump it in the filter when I change it, also I put one in the tank whenever I change the oil


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Diesel Kleen by Power Service is a very good diesel fuel additive to help keep injectors clean.
Just follow the directions for mixing with the fuel that is on the bottle.



Engine oil selection for diesel engines is a highly contested and debated subject, everyone has lots of varied opinions on the matter.
Make your own choice, but don't belittle others for their choice or opinions.
Open and respectful discussions are what forums are all about.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Keith is the one who originally told me they used 15 weight, also is the one who told me that 5w is not capable of keeping the soot in suspension, and is what wipes them out. I live hour and a half from Keith, I drove to his shop to custom tune my 270hp crd and is when he told me all this. Along with a bunch of other neat history/ info on this engine.

Turbos do not like thin oil, they prefer thicker oil, and I've rebuilt enough of these crd turbos to tell you 5w is not doing these any favors. Mainly the thrust washer gets ate up and the turbo is then toast.

Manufacturers don't spec oil because it's the best for that engine, it means it's the best compromise. Fuel economy, emissions, towing, all contribute to picking the oil. In this case Chrysler picked the 0w/5w for better fuel economy, per Keith's words. Run the 15w, sacrifice some economy and give your engine the life it deserves.

_________________
05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

It’s not worth the time or crayons to try to explain it to you… you don’t do this on a professional level and this back and forth is a waste of my Saturday. You are going to think what you want, both oils have the same 40w at operating temp and we ran 5w40 in the 600hp Cummins we use to use for Dyno competitions for years… but I get it most people don’t know oil that well


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I am following this with interest....