Changing water pump - what else to do?

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Noob here, but I have read the guide! I've got an '05 CRD that just turned 150k mi, had since 144k. Recently I've had cooling system issues that were a real head-scratcher. I was coming to a fork in the road between swapping the radiator or doing the water pump, with no clear evidence that either were failing, when the water pump started leaking. Winner! The culprit has been found.

So now that I'm going to do the water pump, I'll also swap the timing belt, idlers. and tensioner; probably do the same for the serpentine idlers and tensioners too. I'm wondering what else I should do while I'm in there. ID Parts offers a supreme service kit that got me thinking about rockers - is there much value in taking the valve cover off and looking at the rockers? I don't have any symptoms of anything yet - just want to be proactive. It's worth nothing the EGR hasn't been deleted yet so there's probably loads of gunk that I could clean out while I'm in there. It might also be an ideal time to do the delete, depending on how access is.

Anything else I should be considering while I'm in this deep?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 03, 2022 5:13 pm

If you can, for sure delete the exhaust soot injection system (EGR). It will help make your engine last longer along with several other benefits like cleaner oil and better engine performance. :JEEPIN:

If you cannot do the full delete, at least install a block off plate between the exhaust soot feed line and the EGR valve as pictured below. You can make the block off plate out of any thin sheet metal even a lid from a soup or vegetable can.
All that is needed is a pair of tin snips and a 5/16" drill bit.
Then remove the butterfly plate out of the FCV (air flow control valve). It only has two small torx screws holding it to the shaft and is real easy to remove.
The FCV has a history of failure in the gears for the operator on the side of the valve which allows the butterfly plate internally to stick partway closed limiting air flow and boost into the intake manifold. See picture. The FCV serves no other purpose on this engine other than operation of the EGR system!

How many miles on the engine? If it has high miles, then you may want to think about replacing the exhaust valves as some engines have a history of breaking and dropping a valve somewhere around 200k or above. It this happens, it will cause catastrophic damage to the head, piston, and sometimes the piston liner. In a few rare instances, a dropped valve has totally destroyed the engine by causing the connection rod to break and punch a hole in the side of the block thus completely destroying the whole engine. :grim:

Have any other questions, just ask, plenty of very experienced and willing to help owners on this forum. :wink:

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Thanks for the quick reply! I'd like to go ahead and do the full delete but I'm struggling to find kits for it. I did find a supplier for the elbow kits that still has some in stock, though. Question about using this - so with the elbow replacing the FCV and intake, what do I need to do for the exhaust soot feed that comes out the exhaust and wraps behind the head? Do I remove this copper hose and place a plate on the exhaust, or is it better if I keep it and put a plate on the FCV side? I must be missing something...

Let me know if it's appropriate/you'd like me to post a link to the kit - don't want to bring any unnecessary heat to one of the few suppliers still out there

Engine has 150k miles on it. Seems like I might have some time before having to think about exhaust valves, but it's definitely on the horizon.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 03, 2022 11:37 pm

See picture, hopefully this will answer your questions.

The block off plate goes on the end of the exhaust feed tube from the exhaust manifold and the EGR valve at the EGR valve. Real easy to install, only two bolts.
Some owners blank it off at the exhaust manifold end by removing the EGR exhaust feed tube, cutting it off a few inches from the clamp, then flatten the end of the tube out with a hammer and fold the end back over on itself and crimp it shut and then clamp the short piece of tube back on the exhaust manifold. This works too! See last drawing.

If you remove the FCV by installing one of the elbows, you can discard the tube that runs from the EGR valve to the FCV.

If you install the elbow in place of the FCV, and you have the blank in place, you can also totally remove the EGR valve, EGR cooler and all associated cooling hoses by plugging the coolant fitting in the center of the head and removing the "Y" where it feeds back into the water pump suction and replace the "Y" with a straight 5/8" hose connector.

FCV Removed, EGR Blank Installed, & Elbow Installed

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Thank you! This is very helpful. I'll be sure to report back with results, parts should be here late this week/early next.

I'll dig into some of the threads about tunes now

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ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

So I did a dumb thing, and I stripped the 5mm hex bolt for the cam pin on the exhaust side of the engine. Folks at O'Reilly and AutoZone were unable to find what that bolt is to order a replacement. Does anyone have a part number/specs/name so I can order a replacement?

Also, the stripped bolt is still in the engine. I'm going to use a Spiral Screw Extractor to get it out tomorrow, but I wanted to know if there's a reason to not do this. I tried a torx head T-30 and it's not grabbing anything.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 11, 2022 3:04 am

You should be able to go to a hardware store, find a small bolt that is the same thread size (M10 threads), cut it shorter if you have to, and seal the threads with some silicone sealer and a copper crush washer for an oil drain plug.
It doesn't have to be super tight. It just has to keep oil from leaking out.

You may even be able to find a short oil drain plug at a parts store that will have the correct M10 threads?

OEM Washer and timing plug bolt part numbers:
Sealing washer: 2 required: Part Number: 04720713
PLUG. Cylinder Block: Part Number: 05066787AA
According to online Mopar dealers, the plug bolt is no longer available.

Found this:
Hollow Hex Plug, M10 x 1, Metric / https://www.zoro.com/parker-hollow-hex- ... lsrc=aw.ds

Item: Hollow Hex Plug
Pipe Fitting Material: Carbon Steel
Specific Fitting Shape: Hollow Hex Plug
Basic Pipe Fitting Material: Metal
Pipe Size - Pipe Fitting: M10 x 1"
Basic Pipe Fitting Shape: Plug
Fitting Connection Type: Metric
Standards: ISO 9974-1

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Oh this is perfect, thank you!

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ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

So next question - I'm now about to swap the water pump. The replacement is a GRAF pump and came with two rubber rings. I know where the big one goes, no problem, but I'm confused about this second, smaller but thicker one, it doesn't seem to have anywhere to go... I don't feel good about not using everything in the kit though so I wanted to double check. Any insight?

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 11, 2022 4:45 pm

The smaller O ring goes between the rear water pump housing and where it bolts up to the engine block. Shown in picture below.
Most people only replace the front half of the water pump and that is where the big O ring goes.

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Sorry, got another question, thank you for joining me on this timing belt journey! [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND COLD SWEAT] So, I've put the tensioner back on and I can't seem to get it to stay in place. I've lined up the indicator with the spring edge that rests against the lip in the back cover of the timing belt and tightened it down. But, when I wiggle the crank the tensioner pulley moves to loosen.

In the video it's difficult to see the pulley move, but if you look where it contacts the back of the timing belt cover you can see the spring move.

Is my tensioner broken? This is the new one. I really hope I'm just forgetting a stephttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/631e97eea342c/20220911_191741.mp4

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 12, 2022 3:33 pm

With the timing pins IN, tensioner bolt slightly loose, using the tensioner pulley tool, tension the timing belt to the proper tension and while holding it in the correct position for the proper tension, tighten the tensioner bolt to the correct torque. Then remove all timing pins and rotate the engine over by hand a couple of revolutions until the timing pins will go in again and recheck the belt tensioner that is still has the proper tension setting on it. If it is not still in the correct tension position, re-tension it and repeat steps above.

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Hey there! I'm doing the EGR delete now, and am wondering about the thickness of the block-off plate. If I remove the EGR valve and cooler, do I need to use a thicker piece of metal, or would the lid to a can or a jar still work?

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Oct 07, 2022 9:48 am

ScootGoose wrote:

Hey there! I'm doing the EGR delete now, and am wondering about the thickness of the block-off plate. If I remove the EGR valve and cooler, do I need to use a thicker piece of metal, or would the lid to a can or a jar still work?

A thicker piece of metal would probably be best if you are totally removing the EGR valve.
But keep in mind, there is not a lot of exhaust pressure in the feed line against the block off plate.

or you could back up and blank it off where it comes off the exhaust manifold at the V clamp.

A simple way to do this is to remove the exhaust feed tube to the EGR valve, cut it off a few inches from the V clamp mounting location.
Then using a hammer, place the cut off end on a vice or piece of metal and flatten the cut off end shut.
next, fold the flattened end over on to itself with some pliers and crimp it shut with the hammer.
Reinstall to exhaust manifold, and your done.

ScootGoose · **Joined:** Mon Aug 29, 2022 10:45 pm **Posts:** 17

Perfect, thank you! I've just finished the delete and installing the tune (I posted elsewhere asking how to avoid the MPPS error on windows 10 and 11 but of course immediately after posting it ran fine as administrator...).

Thanks again for your help! Looking forward to a long life ahead for this jeep

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Changing water pump - what else to do?

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