2005 CRD Transmission Removal

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Finally took the dive on this large project to replace the tranny oil pump, upgrade the valves or whatever, and new TC.

I am having trouble figuring out which sets of bolts are on the bell housing. I haven't tried that hard but wondering your thoughts. There seems to be two sets or an adaptor plate looking thing, it's just hard to tell.

I can find ZERO info or guide on how to get this sensored word out. Everything online is for the gas lol. I got the TC bolts off, everything else but cooler lines, and I'm about to try the bell housing bolts. One looks near impossible to get to against body molding and a sensor. I can remove or unplug sensor but don't know if I need that out. I got tranny jack and all the goodies to make this easier and am pretty familiar with mechanical things.

If anyone has any pic or diagram of bolts needed out would help. I looked in FSM and it's junk. Doesn't even match my jeep really. The pics and descriptions are for gas or something. It talks about removing exhaust pipes and stuff but it didn't even match what I have. I may have to remove it to access a bell housing bolt though, but hoping not. If anyone has some tips send em my way

Trial and error I guess?

Thanks!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2023 1:25 pm

Maybe these will be of some help to you? :wink:

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Extremely helpful. Let me give it a shot. FSM didn’t even have these pics.

Thanks!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2023 4:10 pm

jagster936 wrote:

Extremely helpful. Let me give it a shot. FSM didn’t even have these pics.
Thanks!

Found a couple more that may be of help. Enhanced one of them for 2.8. First one shows a slightly different model engine, but the mounting is the same.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I guess that is only showing the top bolts? I did see that sneaky reverse direction bolt.

The FSM speaks to a engine / transmission lower collar that I haven’t found on mine. Maybe that’s for the 3.7 gas. And for that one that was how it said to access the TC bolts not through the rubber cover above starter. But it was the cover on mine.

They also said turn the crank bolt on harmonic balancer. That’s impossible without removing fan or a special low profile tool maybe. Or maybe the GM Superfan we have makes it harder. I was able to turn engine slowly and tediously with beer and flat blade through the starter hole.

What is the torque on those TC bolts? And someone recommended using blue loctite ?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 01, 2023 11:56 am

I could not find a listing anywhere for the torque for the torque converter to flexplate bolts.
The Factory Service Manual says this: "Flex Plate Bolts - 2.8L, Refer to the Service Procedure" :furious:

And the service procedure does not give the torque specifications. :banghead:

Found this for a Dodge truck 545RFE torque specification: Flywheel to Converter Torque Spec 50 ft-lbs
I would think it would be very similar?
And yes, use blue medium strength Loctite on the bolt threads for safety.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

That sounds about right. I got them off with normal 3/8 it felt around 50 I’d say. Not super tight

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Aug 01, 2023 8:47 pm

If I remember the hard to reach bolt or bolts on the top are easier to get once you can lower the tail end of the transmission a bit.

Sent from my SM-S906W using Tapatalk

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Did you have to remove any exhaust to get to them?

Did you have to remove cooler lines to get bell housing to clear? I’m hoping to move backwards then sideways to clear them.

DieselsRock · **Posted:** Wed Aug 02, 2023 2:01 pm

I was going to swap engines between the two CRD's that I have, but then decided against the swap after I had the engine pulled from the first one. While out, I upgraded the TC and installed a new pump, so I already had to remove the exhaust which made getting to the top bolts much easier. Actually, removing the turbo really opens up the passenger side, but a person would have to decide if it's worth it. Mine was removed. Those top bolts were a PITA to get to and I ended up purchasing a set of stubby ratchet wrenches, then once they were on the bolt, used a small prybar to push the wrench up to break the bolts loose. I've had to drop the rear of the transmission to get to those bolts on a couple of my Fords, but was hoping a short wrench and a bar would do the trick and it did. Once loosened, the stubby ratchet wrench was enough to walk them out.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I did finally get the beast out. It was surprisingly easy, just requiring lots of patience of course. Some points, as I have found VERY little info on this job on this vehicle:

1. All the top bolts are easily accessible by fully lowering the transmission, I just more less let it rest on the engine mounts, leaving a small gap on the front cross member there.
2. There are two reverse facing bolts at the bottom of bell housing. And one additional one near the exhaust. It was indeed trapped behind exhaust and hard to get to but I just used a 16mm wrench and back it out and let it hang there, away from bell housing threads.
3. I broke the bolt holding the tranny oil dipstick, completely rusted. And there was two additional bolts missing. That's concerning, now I know this thing has been out before and who knows who did what to it. I'll take a look at pan magnet thing to see if any shavings. The fluid smelled kind of burnt and nasty but not sure normal smell lol.
4. No splines to deal with, I guess I'm used to manuals. Just lowered out once unbolted and cleared a little. Be careful with wiring one wire loom was fastened to transmission up high; that won't go back in

.
5. Don't leave engine hanging, support it with scissor jack while work. This has been a spread out project for me as I find time, and the hellish Texas heat doesn't help anything. I worked all night on it.

I'll try to get more bolts or at least get the frozen one out if I can and replace it. It was also hard to get the thing out from under jeep I had to lift entire back in way up high, worrying about front end jack stands and stuff falling off, but they didn't lol. I have a couple extra safety jacks around.

https://yourimageshare.com/ib/5gEsCZSl3y

Don't know why google drive public link for the image isn't working. Tried another site, doesn't work, something wrong with forum code

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 05, 2023 7:27 pm

The problem is your hosting service is not sharing the picture link as a photo. jpg, png, gif, tif, etc. :banghead:

It must be in the correct format to share. :wink:

This is what it looks like with the correct code:

Code:

[url=https://postimg.cc/qgZ09dRD][img]https://i.postimg.cc/X7nJBj0W/545-RFE-Transmission.png[/img][/url]

(notice it has a ".png" extension)
I shared your picture from my picture hosting service: https://postimages.org/ and it works just fine.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Oh ok I see thank you haha.

Can you remind me, if I am replacing the pump with the newer remanufactured version, I only do the transgo pieces related to the valve body not the TC limit valve, ID, etc the kit instructions talk about? And maybe the snap ring stuff once get oil pump and all that out or it may come with one, and oil seal.

It also mentions doing the underdrive snap ring, I don't recall reading about this much. Should I even mess with that?

Instructions confusing give so many alternative designs or if this, do that, if that, do this, etc. I saw a good youtube on the valve body thing. Any good ones on oil pump? Or I'll also take a look

Thanks

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Aug 06, 2023 2:50 am

I would get a complete upgraded valve body with a new shift solenoid and updated front pump from transpartsnow.com or a similar supplier. Probably install new sensors as well since they can get out of spec over time.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I don't plan to do the valve body at this time. I do have a new pump hence the original question.

Do I also need to prime or fill the TC with fluid when installing? Saw this on a youtube video

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 06, 2023 12:17 pm

Yes, prefill your new torque converter with ATF+4 before installing. It may not hold very much! This will keep it from running dry when you first start the engine.
What TC are you installing, just curious?
Also, on first startup after tranny install, start engine with gear selector in Neutral, this puts front pump into service immediately so it will fill up TC.

As to your TransGo kit question; I personally did not install my kit, I contracted with a local transmission shop who was a personal friend of mine to perform all the transmission work. They removed the transmission, installed the new upgraded front pump assembly, tested the solenoid, installed the SunCoast TC, etc...and I did not have to deal with all the headaches. :BANANA:

I let the experts work their magic on transmissions in most cases, as I have found from experience it is money well spent! :juggle:

They do it everyday for a living and know all the shortcuts and the pitfalls to avoid.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I agree if I have to go any deeper I would maybe send it off. That’s almost as much trouble as researching and doing myself I’m in a rural area.

I may skip the retaining ring or call transgo and ask their opinion.

It’s a Suncoast I called and ordered.

You don’t recall if they updated the pump with the transgo components? I did see another post where you recommended putting the upgraded TC valve etc into the new updated pump. Not sure. If they used the entire transgo kit and didn’t leave anything out that would also include the retaining ring.

I’m pulling the pan off today and doing the valve body. If I see excessive amounts of clutch material or wear I may just mail it off and let someone do. Problem is I don’t trust mechanics lol so that’s another thing. Need find reputable shop or mail to yours

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I did some more forum skimming. From what I can gather, about half people skip the Transgo altogether, the other half install.

Further, the part that wears in the pump is perhaps the little valve there, so replacing the transgo part into it would be like replacing a new valve for a new valve causing no harm. Surely they accounted for someone putting it into a new or rebuilt pump, and would have stated a warning, right? So I plan to insert the new valve into the new rebuilt pump and cross my fingers.

If you run across any extra info on this let me know, I didn't want to waste all Sunday afternoon waiting for Monday to call Transgo, though. Don't have a lot of time to work on this before work ramps up soon.

I'm also hesitant on the outter drum HD retaining ring, I'll get in there and see how hard that is to replace. I haven't heard of this failing much? Have you?

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I also ran across this. I tend to think this is more likely true, that the shift kits modifications to the accumulators won't do much as the TCM will compensate for these hardware changes. Seems to make more sense:

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/3 ... 6rfe-68rfe

But I guess I'll install it on recommendations of you and your transmission guy and move on with life, lol. Too much OCD in head

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Me and my dad looked at the new pump and his opinion was, since it was rebuilt, tested, even marked at each valve port area that they look at that, to leave it alone. He's worked on cars and things all his life off and on.

I'll get Transgo's opinion in morning and I'll report back but I'm gonna leave that part alone since it's all tested and vetted etc

2005 CRD Transmission Removal

Who is online