2005 CRD Transmission Removal

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Could you ask your transmission friend about those parts in the new oil pump? I got the new pump installed and parts installed into valve body, I'm ready to put her back together now this project is dragging on!

Thanks, or I could give him a call if you prefer.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I spoke to transgo he said he would put the parts in there, but since it's a rebuilt pump he doesn't know what they did to it or if they would even fit. I think I will opt to not install them at this time, hopefully it lasts a good while! No one seems to know here..

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Mon Aug 07, 2023 11:58 pm

Again. Transpartsnow.com get a complete upgraded valve body with a new solenoid pack and an upgraded front pump.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Yea lol maybe next time. I figured my transmission likely in better shape then some beat up yet rebuilt one. A gamble either way I guess.

I cannot get this retaining ring to go back on the oil pump plate. Ridiculous. Been trying for an hour

And the junky German transmission filter doesn’t fit. Should have gotten OEM from idparts. Sigh.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Well I have the tranny ready to go in. Question, if I connect it's 4 connectors, and leave the transfer case etc off, can I do a sanity check with it all and run it etc? Go through all the gears, make sure no oil leaks, etc?

The TCM may not like not seeing the xfr case speed or whatever that is. Just one plug I think if I remember right

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I guess wwdiesel gave up on me lol. Hope to have this together by end of weekend and test!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 11, 2023 1:45 am

jagster936 wrote:

I guess wwdiesel gave up on me lol. Hope to have this together by end of weekend and test!

Didn't give up on you, answered what I safely could.
\ :POPCORN:

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

You could have asked your transmission guy or referred me. I’m beyond that now.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 11, 2023 12:31 pm

jagster936 wrote:

You could have asked your transmission guy or referred me. I’m beyond that now.

I sincerely wished I could have, but my good friend who owned the local transmission shop unfortunately passed away back in late 2021 due to the Coronavirus Virus (Covid). And, I don't have anyone else I trust to refer.
I was hoping someone else with lots of transmission experience would chime in and answer your questions.
I don't answer questions or offer advice unless I have the knowledge to ensure validity. :wink:

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Well that makes me feel bad lol. I’m sorry to hear and I understand. I’ll get her goin and report back here.

The main reason I do stuff myself isn’t because enjoy it rather I know the quality of my work. Finding good shops is difficult. A good example would be the transmission dipstick bracket to bell housing was extremely difficult to mount on. Limited access. Took me 4 hrs but I figured it out lol. Most mechanics would skip that and then you’d later on get fatigue cracks probably!

Honestly that dang dipstick tube was the hardest part of the process thus far. And the evil oil plate retaining ring was very hard to get on. Definitely not like the YouTube videos as usual lol.

Thanks.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I got her going, well mixed emotions, all of this occurs once it's fully hot/driving fast for a while:

1. Issue still exists, though some of it may be minimized. I haven't seen the severe stalling at stop like before. We could have combo of problems here. More driving will tell.
2. Erratic shifting, 2-3 shift drags out to almost 3k RPM, only after transmission is nice at WARM. I had to go 80-85 for few mins to get this behavior to return. It's 2500RPM at 35MPH, I think this is second gear it's hard to tell.
3. Sometimes it will be sluggish throttle response then take off, and shutter a little like engine struggling. This could possibly be unrelated but don't think so, transmission related likely.
4. It did a hard down shift sometimes and drags out gears more when it gets hot.
5. Noticeable from upgrades or changes is its aggressiveness to go when placed in R or D. I wouldn't call this a good thing but definitely feels more ready to go, lol. It isn't big deal.

Possibly solutions in my head in order of likelyhood, any comments appreciated.
1. Valve body needs to be replaced/refurbished, solenoids likely acting crazy
2. Transmission cooler lines plugged or not doing their job?
3. Oil level is about 1-1.5inches above "hot" on the dipstick WWdiesel I read what you and others say in past they said an inch above full but there is no full mark, just hot and cold. I trimmed the dipstick off 1/2 inch or so like you said and so far it hasn't popped out of the holder tube.
4. Line pressure sensor? Speed sensors?
5. TCM?

I guess I need a skilled transmission tech with a scan tool to take a look while weird behavior occurs. This is hard to do since only does when nice and hot and after highway driving.

https://transpartsnow.com/545rfe-45rfe- ... s-1999-10/

Something like this, these guys reputable?

I'm kind of throwing parts at it at this point if I go down this road.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 13, 2023 10:22 pm

The stalling out issue should be fully resolved with the new front pump assembly. :BANANA:

You may need to go through a "Quick Learn" procedure to get everything back shifting correctly?
It is basically a recalibration of everything after performing work inside the transmission.
In the 2005 Factory Service Manual it starts in section 8E - pg. 26, ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES KJ
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (Continued)
FSM Available on line at:> https://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/ ... Manual.pdf

FSM wrote:

TCM QUICK LEARN
The quick learn procedure requires the use of the scan tool.
This program allows the electronic transmission system to recalibrate itself. This will provide the proper transmission operation.
The quick learn procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are performed:
² Transmission Assembly Replacement
² Transmission Control Module Replacement
² Solenoid Pack Replacement
² Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
² Valve Body Replacement or Recondition

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I don’t think that will work since it only does it when hot and did exact same thing before. But wouldn't hurt to try I guess.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I thought less oil pressure would PREVENT a TC lockup? As it uses oil pressure to lock. I was thinking about this?

Also, that table in the manual is very interesting. Perhaps I'm getting a bad sensor, or REALLY have an overheat fluid situation (cooler blocked?). This causes specific 2-3 and 3-4 delays and other issues. I'm almost willing to bet it's one of those. Since it's so predictable when it's hot. Sensor could be out of range or etc. Where is the transmission oil temperature sensor? Nonetheless I could read that with proper scan tool, hmmmm

One thing to note, when I disconnected the cooler lines only got a couple of drips none pouring out or anything. Is this expected? That top line is impossible to disconnect with it fully installed now, I had to lower tranny to get it to come all the way out, it hits the wall there. I wonder if some other way to see if fluid is flowing, maybe measure line temps to and from the cooler perhaps

What is FEMCC and PEMCC? I don't see explanation anywhere

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 14, 2023 10:27 am

If you disconnect one of the transmission cooler lines and start the engine with the tranny in neutral, AT fluid should squirt out of the line profusely under pressure.
Have you replaced the solenoid pack? It may be causing some of your issues? It can be changed by simply dropping the oil pan to gain access. Be sure and use a solenoid pack of the same color (white) as there are differences in them.

Do you have any DTC's being set that would help identify the problem?

Abbreviations:

Quote:

EMCC = Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
NO EMCC = No Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
PEMCC = Partially Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
FEMCC = Full Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch

Quote:

Theory of Operation: When in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear, the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) can be locked (FEMCC) or partially locked (PEMCC) when certain conditions are met. The TCC piston is electronically modulated by increasing the duty cycle of the LR/TCC solenoid until the torque converter slip difference (difference between engine and turbine speed) is within 60 rpm. Then the LR/TCC solenoid is fully energized (FEMCC / 100% duty cycle). Torque converter slip is monitored in FEMCC to ensure adequate clutch capacity. The transmission will attempt normal EMCC operation (not in limp-in) even after the MIL is illuminated. MIL will illuminate after five minutes of accumulated slip in FEMCC.

When Monitored: The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is in FEMCC or PEMCC, Transmission temperature is hot, Engine temperature is greater than 38°C or 100°F, Transmission Input Speed greater than engine speed, TPS less than 30°, and brake not applied.

Set Condition: The TCC is modulated by controlling the duty cycle of the L/R Solenoid until the difference between the Engine rpm and the Transmission Input Speed rpm or duty cycle is within a desired range. The DTC is set after the period of 10 seconds and three occurrences of either: FEMCC – with slip greater than 100 rpm or PEMCC – duty cycle greater than 85%.

Possible Causes: LR/TCC Solenoid malfunction or Internal Transmission failure.

Transmission shifting and TC Lockup is controlled by the TCM using various sensors inputs from the transmission, ie. temperature, speed, engine load, etc...
The TCM has programming that allows it to select a variety of shift schedules. (shifting is controlled by the shift solenoid from signals received from the TCM)
Shift schedule selection is dependent on the following:
- Shift lever position
- Throttle position
- Engine load
- Transmission Fluid temperature
- Software

545RFE Transmission Operation
The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is programmed to allow a select variety of shift schedules that are dependent on many physical conditions:
The TCM will adjust the shift schedule of the transmission as environmental and driving conditions change.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

I did not, but that was my first next likely cause. I would probably just replace entire valve body with solenoid pack as a rebuild unit. You can replace the solenoid pack and leave the valve body accumulators and such? I did notice the one on the website as rebuilt had a white connector white gasket, mine was white connector black gasket, I guess that doesn't matter right.

At this point I'm just throwing parts at it, I forgot I do know a local young mechanic very sharp with a snap on tool. He troubleshot my friend's shuttering TC clutch on his Colorado. I will have him observe it as I drive and look at temps and things and get his opinion, along with a TCM quick relearn.

Thanks for the info! No DTC's! At least no lights, I haven't pulled DTC's from TCM if there are hidden ones. I did get a new ABS light lol, not sure why. I'm not able to read it with my tools. In the past it was the sensor on rear differential, I think. I think my Chinesium Schwabben tool can read wheel speeds but not codes of the ABS module, or something.

What was your oil dipstick level now that works well?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 14, 2023 6:26 pm

I run ATF level about 1/2-3/4" above the full mark when hot.
Yes, you can change out just the solenoid pack without changing the valve body.

Transmission Solenoid Pack -- 5170877AF “WHITE” SOLENOID PACK

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

Oh ok nice! I drove it today and a little hard for few mins and problem didn’t surface. Shifting was also much calmer off D and R from park. It seemed to have learned that already. Maybe it will heal itself lol but I’m not holding my breath!

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 210

My dad drove it around and the problem returned. No light's or anything came on, just the long shift 2-3 that is noticeable at 3k RPM. Will update any info when I can get a scanntool on it and look at some data. I'm not going to keep throwing parts at it. I'm leaning towards either real overheat or temp sensor. I did not replace line pressure sensor though and I need to take a look at that data too.

He drove it hard for a while with no issue. Continued driving it and the problem began shifting funny. Stop, ignition off 1 minute, back on, problem return. Problem continue. Stop, ignition off 10 mins, problem cleared. Then was intermittent after that for remainder of driving. Seems like heat issue to me or perceived by TCM to be one.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2023 5:35 pm

Have you replaced the shift solenoid?

Put this together for you, maybe it will be of some help?

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2005 CRD Transmission Removal

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