First Post, Liberty CRD Overheat

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

OK I will admit to having used this forum for years without having joined, lots of great info and has helped me through some issues over the years, so thanks to all that have posted their problems and solutions in the past. . I bought my 2006 Liberty in 2016 with 50k miles on it. It must have been some old couples TOAD for having so few miles and already set up for flat towing. I had 2 VW TDI wagons at the time and a small motorhome with an Isuzu 3.9 diesel in it too(yes the NPR chasis). So not new to the diesel world. I have shed all but the CRD at this point for various reasons but now have about 120k miles on the Jeep and running into some overheat issues. We tow this jeep all over the place because its a great all around vehicle for us, but I will probably have to find something bigger in the near future as my three boys are not going to want to sit in the back together very much longer. This overheat issue popped up while we were on vacation over at the grand canyon last summer, but I figured it was a fluke, climbing hills higher temps and thinner air etc, but its has persisted. Generally she pegs the center of the gauge when driving no matter what speed, but lately when I get about 65mph she ends up at the 3/4 mark and has hit the red line once. I don't know if I am looking at a fan clutch issue or a thermostat issue or other. I had the water pump done at the 100k mark along with the timing belt, new intercooler pipes, coolant was replaced then too.

I can tell you that if I flip the heat on in the cabin and open windows to dump the heat she cools back down to normal, but that's not a long term solution. So I am hoping someone can give me some pointers based on my explanation. I have read that both the thermostat and the viscous clutch could be failing, and I am tempted to just take do both. I just dont want to do this in vain.

Thanks in advance!

Lawrence in Florida

03black · **Posted:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 10:39 pm

I would change the thermostat with a quality one and check the radiator cooling stack for obstructions (leaves, pine needles, dirt ect). Maybe back blow some low pressure water through the radiator to clean out the fins. Then see how it performs.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 10:43 pm

More than likely, your issue is your fan clutch has failed and not providing enough air flow through the radiator stack when most needed.
You can also check and make sure you don't have any debris buildup between the CAC (intercooler) and the radiator that would inhibit air flow through the radiator.
Thermostats, when they fail on this engine normally fail in the full open position, they don't generally fail in a closed position. If yours has done this, it would be very rare indeed.
When you get into high temperature situations, is your electric pusher fan running full speed? It should be! It is there to augment the mechanical cooling fan in high temperature situations.

If you would like to greatly increase your engine system's cooling capacity especially when towing or driving in hilly mountainous driving, you should replace the stock OEM cooling fan and fan clutch with a GM 11 blade plastic fan and heavy duty fan clutch that was used on the 6.0 V8 GM trucks that came with the heavy duty cooling package for AC and trailer towing. See info below:

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

Yeah that electric fan is full on when it gets heated up. Today drove in 100 miles or so in 60-75 degree weather and it got up to 3/4 on the temp gauge. I will start with the fan clutch, seems to spin too freely IMO.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2024 6:14 pm

Transmission overheating, fan clutch, secondary fan failure, leaking injector(s), clogged radiator, parking brake stuck on...

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

Actually just realized that I replaced the fan clutch at the same time as the timing belt and water pump. So now I don't know what to look at.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2024 10:48 am

lawnarjax wrote:

Actually just realized that I replaced the fan clutch at the same time as the timing belt and water pump. So now I don't know what to look at.

Are you still running the OEM fan and fan clutch?
If so, you should really consider stepping up to the much better 11 blade GM fan and heavy duty Hayden Fan Clutch. It provides a lot more air flow through the radiator stack when engaged.

Also, you may want to run the head gasket leak test to see if you are dealing with a leaking head gasket? Are you losing any coolant?

Jeep CRD Head Gasket Cold Engine Leak Test Procedure:
1. Engine off, engine cold preferably from setting overnight.
2. Remove the coolant reservoir cap located on top of the expansion tank to release any existing pressure that is still in the system and then replace the coolant reservoir cap tightly.
3. Start the cold engine and let it run for no more than 60 seconds, then shut engine off.
4. Remove the coolant reservoir cap on top of the expansion tank again and listen closely and be attentive to note if any pressure escapes from the reservoir. Even the most miniscule amount of built-up pressure escaping from the coolant system would indicate a head gasket leak or a possible cracked head.

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

I will try the head gasket test in the morning thanks.

I thought I had figured it out this morning when I drained the oil out and poured the used oil into containers and realized I was not anywhere near 6.4 quarts, maybe 5. So it occurred to me that I could be experiencing heat soak if the low oil condition was severe enough to cause heat retention. Changed the oil, made sure 6.4 quarts went back in. I thought that I saw some improvement this morning as we drove around town, but now that the temps are in the mid 70's the overheat condition is back.

Should coolant come out of the valve on the radiator when I open it? I do not see coolant coming out at all cold or hot.

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

So I think I solved my issue. My coolant is rust colored. Just flushed it all and going to refill with the heat. Which used 20k miles ago. Guessing radiator is going to need replaced soon.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2024 9:11 pm

lawnarjax wrote:

So I think I solved my issue. My coolant is rust colored. Just flushed it all and going to refill with the heat. Which used 20k miles ago. Guessing radiator is going to need replaced soon.

You can get some coolant/radiator flush at an automotive parts store or find a reputable radiator repair shop and they can flush your cooling system for you.

Available at AutoZone:> BlueDevil Products 00204 Radiator Flush - 1 Quart

If you use the can flush chemical, be sure and flush it good with clear water after doing the flush. Then be sure and refill system with only HOAT GO-5 antifreeze which is the only coolant acceptable for use in this vehicles cooling system. Mixing anything else in the system can have dire consequences along with not performing properly. The HOAT G0-5 is a gold in color liquid.
There have been some reports when mixing different types antifreeze with the HOAT G0-5, it turns the coolant into a gel like substance.

lawnarjax · **Joined:** Thu Mar 28, 2024 5:01 pm **Posts:** 6

Flushed it 2x until water ran clean both times, brought it up to temp between flushes by driving it. After 2nd flush refilled with the zerez hoat cut with distilled water. Just ran it hard on the back roads and could not even get her past the midpoint on the gauge, but it was cooler, like mid 60's. So I will give it a test on I-75 tomorrow after it warms up a bit. I do think I got it worked out, glad I did not tear into the fan clutch again or the thermostat. I do wonder how the darn thing got so muddy though, I am betting my mechanic did not fully drain the system at the 100k TB service and just refilled and the mix that was in there was already contaminated. Thanks for the posts of assistance.

03black · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2024 11:05 am

Good job on finding the possible cause, keep us posted if this fixes your problem

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2024 12:33 pm

lawnarjax wrote:

I do wonder how the darn thing got so muddy though, I am betting my mechanic did not fully drain the system at the 100k TB service and just refilled and the mix that was in there was already contaminated. Thanks for the posts of assistance.

Just a thought? :idea:

Possibility; your mechanic installed the incorrect antifreeze coolant and it mixed with the remaining HO5 that was still in the block and this set up a chemical reaction to produce the muddy looking sludge you observed. Maybe what you saw was not mud, but instead a concoction chemical reaction mixture?
Several posters have reported in the past of finding a gel like substance in their cooling system after mixing different antifreeze coolants with the OEM HO5 HOAT coolant. :?:

Quote:

WARNINGS found online about mixing different types of antifreeze:
Mixing different types of coolants can cause engine damaging reactions even if coolant is claimed “universal”.
Mixing other styles of coolant with HOAT can cause gelling/ sludging issues. :dead:

seafish · **Joined:** Wed Jan 10, 2024 6:44 pm **Posts:** 29

WWDiesel wrote:

lawnarjax wrote:

I do wonder how the darn thing got so muddy though, I am betting my mechanic did not fully drain the system at the 100k TB service and just refilled and the mix that was in there was already contaminated. Thanks for the posts of assistance.

Just a thought? :idea:

Possibility; your mechanic installed the incorrect antifreeze coolant and it mixed with the remaining HO5 that was still in the block and this set up a chemical reaction to produce the muddy looking sludge you observed. Maybe what you saw was not mud, but instead a concoction chemical reaction mixture?

I was thinking the same thing.

First Post, Liberty CRD Overheat

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