LOST JEEPS
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Camshaft oilseal
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9412		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Derek Mc [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 4:34 am ]
Post subject:  Camshaft oilseal
Well She has to go back into the shop (and I chose to totally change dealers as well) to have another oil leak fixed.

The drips are in the exact same place as last time on the garage floor (car runs into a bump stop so we always know we will get the door shut) and assume it is in the same place on he engine again.

Is the camshaft oilseals a weakness?

on a brighter note the CEL has stayed off since the last false overboost TSB reflash despite some "spirited" driving on-road.
Author:  RFCRD [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 9:23 am ]
Post subject: 
Possible but unlikely. More likely oil leaking from the turbo and running down the block and dripping on the floor.
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Very well could be turbo oil return line leaking, but you could have intercooler hose not full sealed and leaking oil from the CCV system that empties into the IC hose just in front of the turbo.
Author:  Derek Mc [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Last time it was the camshaft oil seal and they garage took three days to fix it, I hope for their sake it is the return line this time as my wife is losing faith in the Jeep big time.
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Something I have been thinking about is how complicated these modern cars & trucks have gotten and I wonder how the heck we will be able to keep them running after warranty period. Hard enough with a warranty, not sure I want any new car or truck out of warranty period.

I have decided my next vehicle will be a lease for the period of warranty and then turn it in and go for another new one.

Any doubt as to resale value of a diesel Jeep, just look at what a '99 diesel MB 300 brings when compared to a gas model. The diesel value is about double the gas car, same applys to TDI VW's and diesel American PU trucks.
Author:  bagger [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 7:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
With a 100,000 mile and 10 year warranty the Kia is starting to look pretty good! :lol:
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 7:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
bagger wrote:
With a 100,000 mile and 10 year warranty the Kia is starting to look pretty good! :lol:
Right and like a neighbors 3 year old Kia with 60k miles and basically worn out. I have been thinking they are going to turn the whole vehicle in for warranty exchange. :wink:
Author:  bagger [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 7:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
They can move up to a Hyundia :lol:
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jun 11, 2006 7:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
bagger wrote:
They can move up to a Hyundia :lol:
Hey man how's it going. has it gotten bug weather up there yet when riding the hog?

Is there a difference between those two vehicles????
Author:  Derek Mc [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Sorry for the delay in the update. The problem was once again the camshaft oilseal at the bulkhead no explanation was given as to how this would happen but that was that!
Also the problem we had had with the transmission non return valves was done and at last when you start the Jeep put it in gear it now engages.

I have to say I am still fond of the CRD but I and especially my wife who drives the Jeep daily are getting fed up with these issues.

I am thinking of exactly how our motorways and freeways became dominated by Toyota's and Nissan's,,,,,,,sadly,,,,,
Author:  vtdog [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
I like my CRD, but if they start importing that Toyota FJ (fake jeep) with a diesel, I would be very tempted to switch
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
vtdog wrote:
I like my CRD, but if they start importing that Toyota FJ (fake jeep) with a diesel, I would be very tempted to switch
Speaking of those FJ fakes the local Toyota dealer has had one since they came out and it has of yet had anyone even want to drive the thing for some reason. I kinda of like the looks of the thing, but it is on a car chassis if I remember correctly.
Author:  vtdog [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 2:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't know anything about the fj, just have seen a few around (more than any CRDs I have seen). If a diesel was available I would certainly go look as I had a tacoma that lasted 1 day short of forever. If the FJ is on a car chassis its no good, but I thought by its size it would be on the tacoma short bed frame.
Author:  oldnavy [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 5:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
I believe it is the Rav4 with another body.
Author:  vtdog [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 7:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK, then cross the FJ off the list. The RAV 4 is fine for driving on dry pavement only. Toyota is smart enough never to advertise it as anything more.
Author:  RFCRD [ Sun Jul 09, 2006 9:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
vtdog wrote:
OK, then cross the FJ off the list. The RAV 4 is fine for driving on dry pavement only. Toyota is smart enough never to advertise it as anything more.

The ironic thing is that it was a cointoss between the CRD and the RAV4 for me. Went with the CRD because I felt the suspension hardware was better suited to take the pounding of the frozen roads around here. Already had the LBJ's replaced after 1 winter's use. My last Toyota ('96 Camry) was one of the finest cars I've ever seen built. Wouldn't hesitate on the FJ, a fuel efficient diesel would close the deal for me.
Author:  groucho [ Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 
The FJ Cruiser is listed at about $1200 over MSRP here on local dealer's internet site. Some dummy will buy them, undoubtedly. Can't wait.

I think it has a plastic roof. No thanks.
Author:  oldnavy [ Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:06 am ]
Post subject: 
When those ball joints go bad just have the dealer install the good BJ's with the zerk fitting. It is not a big deal to do that and is what I will have done when they go bad on ours.
Author:  RFCRD [ Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:22 am ]
Post subject: 
oldnavy wrote:
When those ball joints go bad just have the dealer install the good BJ's with the zerk fitting. It is not a big deal to do that and is what I will have done when they go bad on ours.

That question came up when I met with the DC reps. They told me they can only install the factory replacement part (even if I provided the joints). Indicated there is a debate inside DC concerning greasable vs non-greasable LBJ's on the Liberty. When I mentioned the possibility of another recall, they stopped talking. They just promised to inspect mine and replace if needed which they did. Mine goes back tomorrow morning for the tranny filter TSB, finally after how many visits...???
Author:  oldnavy [ Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:36 am ]
Post subject: 
RFCRD wrote:
oldnavy wrote:
When those ball joints go bad just have the dealer install the good BJ's with the zerk fitting. It is not a big deal to do that and is what I will have done when they go bad on ours.

That question came up when I met with the DC reps. They told me they can only install the factory replacement part (even if I provided the joints). Indicated there is a debate inside DC concerning greasable vs non-greasable LBJ's on the Liberty. When I mentioned the possibility of another recall, they stopped talking. They just promised to inspect mine and replace if needed which they did. Mine goes back tomorrow morning for the tranny filter TSB, finally after how many visits...???
It is all about what the dealer wants to do. Mine will install the greasable kind and keep the OEM for other smucks which allows them to actually make more money. I would do it even if I had to pay for the new greasable BJ's to be installed if they covered the labour under warranty.

Hope they didn't wait too late on the tranny to avoid the failure of TQ and assorted other parts.
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