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 Post subject: Re: Puck and pressure in the fuel system
PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:11 pm 
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Threeweight wrote:
Went out to drive the Jeep a little while ago and figured I'd crack the hood and take a look at my handy work. Uh oh. Very slight moist line where the puck connects to the fuel head. Over pressurized the fuel system?

Drove great, no issues. Hoping this will not evolve into a larger problem. We'll see. If it does, I'll be going the Racor route.


Residual fuel in the threads of the bleeder, or a bleeder not quite sealing will cause it to be moist there. I had to tighten mine till it felt like it was going to strip to get it to dry up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:56 pm 
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Anybody else have anything to add? Im getting mixed messages in this post. Unless I m reading it wrong, some say dont worry bout changing the filter and some say do change the filter. :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:15 pm 
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0311_DoC wrote:
Anybody else have anything to add? Im getting mixed messages in this post. Unless I m reading it wrong, some say dont worry bout changing the filter and some say do change the filter. :?


they are not questioning the changing of the fuel filter they are debating draining
the water off the bottom of the filter. you want to change the fuel filter on a regular
(15-20K mi) basis.

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 Post subject: I bought one from my dealer, but..
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:39 pm 
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... I found a fuel leak under the heater plug. Since the new fuel filter head comes with a new filter, I have a spare for when it is time for the next filter change.
The plastic plug is standard issue for all fuel filters of that type and it would cost more for Chrysler to have it not put in than have it installed, strange production line logic that only a production person could understand.

Besides, I have racked up frequent flier miles because extra unneeded parts confused electricians and other construction workers, after all it cost more not to supply the extra parts.

Back to priming the filter, since the bleeder valve does not have a check valve you will need to follow one of the variations listed below:
1) Pump the primer several times until it gets firm and hold it down.
2) As you hold it down, open the bleeder valve and when the bubbles cease, close the bleeder.

The other option:
1) Connect a hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder, and stick one end under diesel fuel in a jar.
2) Pump the primer until bubbles cease.
Note: Harbor Freight sells a brake bleeder, just use your hand on the primer instead of your foot on the brake peddle and follow their directions.

Crazy option:
1) Remove the bleeder put your thumb over the port with just enough pressure to allow the air to escape but not let the fuel back drain.
2) Put the bleeder back into the port and wash your hands well.

Best option:
1) Install lift pump.
2) Open bleeder.
3) Turn on ignition key and watch fuel coming out of bleeder for air. The lift pump will run for 25 seconds.
4) Close bleeder when air bubbles cease.
5) Cycle ignition key again and if the primer is hard to push in, give your self a pat on the back, all the air is gone.

Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:11 pm 
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TDI4BY wrote:
draining the water is a waste of time and fuel...... I hit the primer button a bunch of times and just started it....no bleeder for me,just let it run rough for a second and you are off......


I agree about draining the water!

As for the bleed after the filter change, I took the entire filter housing off the vehicle and changed the filter on the work bench by putting one of the housing ears in a vice and then cranked off the filter with big Channel Lock pliers. I put a new OEM filter on dry and installed the assembly back on the Jeep. I primed it with the manual pump until it had a lot of resistance and I never opened the bleeder screw. Jeep started right up, then died after about 15 seconds of running. I primed it again and started it right up again. That was 4000 miles ago, and I've had no problems at all. The whole process took about 20 minutes (including cutting the filter open to see how dirty it was).

BTW, I've had the fuel heater fuse removed since the last heater puck (complete filter housing) was installed under warranty (replaced twice in 36,000 miles). No problems with air in the system since, and I have 52,000 miles on the vehicle now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:42 pm 
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I changed my filter at 65000km approx. 42000miles had no problems just changed it to be sure when i looked at old filter it still looked like new was a waste of time for me to change i could have waited my jeep from day one has only had sunoco gold diesel runs like a champ :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:53 pm 
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You must have the cleanest fuel on the planet. I run 20k on filters and mine looked dirty when I cut it apart and unraveled it. You sure you've only had 1 filter in 42k?

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 Post subject: Water In Fuel (WIF)
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:15 pm 
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The damage done if water gets to the pump is not worth any risk to me.
Unfortunately, I do not get fuel in only one place.
Would like an easy to change filter now that I have the lift pump.
A sight glass is a favorite, old school, simple.
Fuel heaters are suspect to me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:25 am 
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wonder will it work on 02 crd liberty which has 2.5 crd vmi engine

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:31 am 
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I just ordered some fuel filters and am going to swap it out. I tend to hurt myself with wrenches, but I think I can handle this :)

Is this the diesel clean product which I should be using to prime the filter and lubrictae rings?

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Service%C2% ... B002NV4XXE


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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 10:55 am 
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Gerge wrote:
I just ordered some fuel filters and am going to swap it out. I tend to hurt myself with wrenches, but I think I can handle this :)

Is this the diesel clean product which I should be using to prime the filter and lubrictae rings?

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Service%C2% ... B002NV4XXE


I don't think an additive is necessary for filter swap,just make sure you prime the filter head well.
Additives are a personal choice.There's a nice chart around here somewhere on the best additives,and their lubricity.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:00 pm 
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OK thanks. I can just fill the filter with diesel and good to go?


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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:24 pm 
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Fill the filter with diesel, screw it up in place, tighten as directed, replace removed connections.
If you pour off the old filter make sure you do not get any water from the bottom.
Do you have a lift pump?
If not, put a little bleeder hose on the bleed valve, (after putting the wrench on the bleeder nut) into a little container of diesel fuel, crack the valve and pump the little fuel head pump until no more air comes out.
This tube into a little pool of diesel fuel prevents air from getting back into the filter head.
A lot of problems occur from air in the filter head, do this properly, get all the air out.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:36 pm 
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My filter was tough to get off. . . to put it mildly. I figure the guy at the dealership didn't take the time to wet the sealing ring with diesel before screwing it on.

I figure it'll come off more easily next time.

FWIW, I bought one of those improved fuel filter bleeder valves from the guys who sell Fumotos. The 'T' handle is easy and the plastic tube allows me to see exactly when the bubbles stop flowing. I suppose it was worth the money.

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=16&parentid=0

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:43 pm 
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Thanks all. My filters are a comin on the internet so when they get here next week I will give this a whirl. I have replaced brake fluid in a motorcycle before, kind of the same process except you use the primer bulb instead of pumping the brakes. Thanks for sharing your experience. I will get one of those 90 degree strap filter wrenches, other than that I think I have everything I need.

I have not done lift pump yet. I intend to but I want to do all the maintenance stuff before I get into modification stuff. After the fue filter I am going to do the differential fluids.


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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:54 am 
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If anyone wants to see something discusting just open a used filter and unroll the media :dizzy: You will be appalled by the black substance covering it. I understand it's caused by the high pressure and heat from our common rail system as it goes through the pressure regulator valve :ALONE: Maybe we all should think about installing fuel coolers on our return lines :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:40 pm 
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Gerge, here is an excellent how-to write up as well: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=35702

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Quote:
I understand it's caused by the high pressure and heat from our common rail system as it goes through the pressure regulator valve


Who told you that?? I believe most of it is just good old dirt,asphaltines, and microbes.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:58 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
Quote:
I understand it's caused by the high pressure and heat from our common rail system as it goes through the pressure regulator valve


Who told you that?? I believe most of it is just good old dirt,asphaltines, and microbes.


A couple of people with real world experience told me that :BANANA:
Before you start I invite you to open your filter and see for yourself :SOMBRERO:
I've opened a number of diesel fuel filters on non common rail systems over the years and have never seen anything like this.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 5:20 pm 
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I've cut open every filter that I have taken off the crd. Nothing unusual. It's a filter. They do get dirty. What are you claiming the "black substance" is?

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