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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:26 pm 
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As far as your "blast gate" idea...You could go to an RV store and buy a gate valve. Essentially the same idea, but much higher in quality and also waterproof! Get yourself an old choke cable or the like and rig it up through the firewall to your dashboard so you could operate the gate valve from inside. This way ya don't have to screw around with getting out and opening the hood.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:26 pm 
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SavageUrge,

Good thoughts! Now we're talking, love the cable idea.

I may have a go at this down the road, but probably not until spring/summer due to lack of a garage and my allergy to below-freezing temperatures ;-)

Keep the ideas coming though and if anyone goes for it be sure to post pics!

Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 3:02 am 
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Location: Central Alabama
I'm working on an intake mod using ABS pipe elbows instead of the flexible downspout.
I have already fitted it together, and it doesn't look like an add on. I have fitted the end that goes into my airbox with a threaded plug so that I can seal it while off-roading or it is too wet out. Now I need to determine the best way to permanently attach and seal it.

I'll post pictures, a parts list and a how-to in the fabrication section when I get the time to install it.

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http://profile.imageshack.us/user/monsieurglen/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:56 am 
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MonsieurGlen wrote:
I'm working on an intake mod using ABS pipe elbows instead of the flexible downspout.
I have already fitted it together, and it doesn't look like an add on. I have fitted the end that goes into my airbox with a threaded plug so that I can seal it while off-roading or it is too wet out. Now I need to determine the best way to permanently attach and seal it.

I'll post pictures, a parts list and a how-to in the fabrication section when I get the time to install it.


I finished my install on christmas eve. The parts that I used are all 2" ABS street elbows as follows:

1 - 90 degree elbow
3 - 45 degree elbows
3 - 22.5 degree elbows
1 - female threaded coupling
1 - threaded plug
ABS cement
Black RTV silicone

I first removed the grill and the airbox. After determining the best fit I assembled the 90, 45's and a 22.5 elbows to form an "s" to come out of the side of the air box and go around the radiator support post. It should look like this when assembled:
Image
Image

Using a 2 1/2" hole saw, cut a hole in the side of the airbox:
Image

Also cut a hole in the rubber behind the grill just below the headlight for the pipe to go through. The second 22.5 elbow goes through here into the "s" pipe. Make sure to aim it forward like this:
Image

Reinstall the airbox and fit the pipe into it so that the last 22.5 elbow can fit on it to direct the air up toward the filter. Then install the female coupling to be able to cap it off in wet conditions.:
Image

Once it is all installed, make sure to seal around the new intake and the box with the silicone to keep any unwanted water out. Reinstall the grill and it should look like this when it is finished:
Image

I really like this set up because it is hardly noticable and almost looks factory under the hood.
Image

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I had:
'06 Black Renegade
Mopar Skids, Renegade Roof Lights, Mopar Crossbars
Custom made intake, Custom made rear shelf
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/monsieurglen/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:11 am 
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Looks good! Nice job 8)

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PIAA 520 Auxiliary Lights
Garmin GPSMAP 76S
DynoMax Ultra Flow SS Muffler
Amsoil Ea "Absolute Efficiency" Air Filter
Nokian Vatiiva 235/70/R16 Tires
Pixeldzn's "RENEGADE" decals
Support the 2nd Amendment - It's your right!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:57 am 
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Location: Lakewood, Colorado
MonsieurGlen wrote:
MonsieurGlen wrote:
I'm working on an intake mod using ABS pipe elbows instead of the flexible downspout.
I have already fitted it together, and it doesn't look like an add on. I have fitted the end that goes into my airbox with a threaded plug so that I can seal it while off-roading or it is too wet out. Now I need to determine the best way to permanently attach and seal it.

I'll post pictures, a parts list and a how-to in the fabrication section when I get the time to install it.


I finished my install on christmas eve. The parts that I used are all 2" ABS street elbows as follows:

1 - 90 degree elbow
3 - 45 degree elbows
3 - 22.5 degree elbows
1 - female threaded coupling
1 - threaded plug
ABS cement
Black RTV silicone

I first removed the grill and the airbox. After determining the best fit I assembled the 90, 45's and a 22.5 elbows to form an "s" to come out of the side of the air box and go around the radiator support post. It should look like this when assembled:
Image
Image

Using a 2 1/2" hole saw, cut a hole in the side of the airbox:
Image

Also cut a hole in the rubber behind the grill just below the headlight for the pipe to go through. The second 22.5 elbow goes through here into the "s" pipe. Make sure to aim it forward like this:
Image

Reinstall the airbox and fit the pipe into it so that the last 22.5 elbow can fit on it to direct the air up toward the filter. Then install the female coupling to be able to cap it off in wet conditions.:
Image

Once it is all installed, make sure to seal around the new intake and the box with the silicone to keep any unwanted water out. Reinstall the grill and it should look like this when it is finished:
Image

I really like this set up because it is hardly noticable and almost looks factory under the hood.
Image


Have you noticed the kick in pants responce described by others?? I just last week finished pulling the slat insert behind the grill face and painted them with Dupli-Color Anodized Red and Anodized Blue I also painted the Fluid caps different Red and Blue then pulled the both Air boxes the Factory Filter lid and tne throttle bodie box painted them Anodizede Blue and the lettering JEEP and V-6 3.7L with Red looks rather sharp now I have to tear it all apart and play cut and paste with your air box design I'll be posting pictures as soon as I get some Decals I've ordered from PIX and when finished then I'll post my paint jobs.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:58 pm 
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Location: Central Alabama
I was out of town for the New Year so I didn't drive much after Christmas. But I finally got to drive enough today to see a difference in the power, and yes, I could feel the "kick in the pants" that the others have mentioned. It seems to run at slightly lower RPM's than before but I could be mistaken. Did anybody else notice that? Now I just need to drive through a full tank of gas to see if it makes a difference in the MPG's.

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I had:
'06 Black Renegade
Mopar Skids, Renegade Roof Lights, Mopar Crossbars
Custom made intake, Custom made rear shelf
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/monsieurglen/


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 Post subject: I like the design
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:12 pm 
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I stopped at Lowes and looked at your list of parts but also considered a sleeve type ring with a screen pulled over the grill opening peice to keep bugs out of the box. Of coarse you posted after I had my grill reasembled having taken it off to paint the grill inserts with Dupli-Color anodized RED and BLUE. Now I'll have to tear it apart all over again. :twisted:

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2002 Sport 4x4 3.7 L w/auto
Amsoil from bumper to bumper, Amsoil Air Filter
PIAA head light bulbs, Fog Light switched out to SilverStar 9005's
MagnaFlo Muffler, New Radiator, Rebuilt A/C system,Rebuilt Rear Diff, LBJ's twice
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:33 pm 
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MonsieurGlen wrote:
I was out of town for the New Year so I didn't drive much after Christmas. But I finally got to drive enough today to see a difference in the power, and yes, I could feel the "kick in the pants" that the others have mentioned. It seems to run at slightly lower RPM's than before but I could be mistaken. Did anybody else notice that? Now I just need to drive through a full tank of gas to see if it makes a difference in the MPG's.


Upon looking at my engine bay today it looks rather tight as to installation into the front grill area, any additional tips as to installation??
I have a Dremel type tool to cut and trim the installation types. As I look at it more and more I wonder if a Shop Vac's enlongated nozzel might work as well and give more area induction area. All help and advise would be appreciated.
Thank-You
David

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LEAD FOLLOW OR GET OUT OF THE WAY
2002 Sport 4x4 3.7 L w/auto
Amsoil from bumper to bumper, Amsoil Air Filter
PIAA head light bulbs, Fog Light switched out to SilverStar 9005's
MagnaFlo Muffler, New Radiator, Rebuilt A/C system,Rebuilt Rear Diff, LBJ's twice
Dunlop 245/70-16 Rover AT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:32 am 
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Location: Central Alabama
Rush345 wrote:
MonsieurGlen wrote:
I was out of town for the New Year so I didn't drive much after Christmas. But I finally got to drive enough today to see a difference in the power, and yes, I could feel the "kick in the pants" that the others have mentioned. It seems to run at slightly lower RPM's than before but I could be mistaken. Did anybody else notice that? Now I just need to drive through a full tank of gas to see if it makes a difference in the MPG's.


Upon looking at my engine bay today it looks rather tight as to installation into the front grill area, any additional tips as to installation??
I have a Dremel type tool to cut and trim the installation types. As I look at it more and more I wonder if a Shop Vac's enlongated nozzel might work as well and give more area induction area. All help and advise would be appreciated.
Thank-You
David


It is a rather tight fit around the radiator support. I would suggest fitting the 90 into the box first then assembling the rest except for the piece that fits through the rubber by the radiator (put that on last, from the front). Once the pieces are all together, glue them to the 90 then glue the last piece on.

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I had:
'06 Black Renegade
Mopar Skids, Renegade Roof Lights, Mopar Crossbars
Custom made intake, Custom made rear shelf
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/monsieurglen/


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 Post subject: Thanks It's going to take a little Skull Sweat
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:20 pm 
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But hopefully I will figure out a MOD that will perform all functions.

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2002 Sport 4x4 3.7 L w/auto
Amsoil from bumper to bumper, Amsoil Air Filter
PIAA head light bulbs, Fog Light switched out to SilverStar 9005's
MagnaFlo Muffler, New Radiator, Rebuilt A/C system,Rebuilt Rear Diff, LBJ's twice
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:38 pm 
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Check out page 3 of my mods thread to see my version of the cold air intake (It's more like pseudo ram-air). Cost is around $6 in materials and a few hours of cutting, pounding and fitting. I am in the process of testing the gas mileage to see if there is any significant difference. I averaged 14.5-15.5mpg before the intake. We'll see what happens (if anything) after a few tanks of gas.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 542#375542

John
];')

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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:39 pm 
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Location: Upstate NY
I'm interested in trying this out on my 07 liberty, and was wondering how the results are from this, also concerning water getting in, it looks easy enough as well. I may have to give this a try later this week....


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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:56 pm 
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Wow digging them up from the past aren't ya! :ROTFL:
I have been running a 3 inch dryer hose set up to the grill for 50,000 or so miles, in combination with the Amsoil air filter in the stock box its been the best setup I have had on it so far.
Tried CAI with K&N and others and this gets the best mileage all around and better performance, had it through rain, hail, snow and creeks and its still going with no problems

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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:19 pm 
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:ROTFL: , honestly I didn't even notice the date.... man I guess I did drag it up from the past.....thanks for the input, it is good to know, also one question, do you still use the factory air inlet, or do you block it off, just wanting to clarify if i need to leave it or just close it off. thanks again :D


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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:51 pm 
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I left the little scoop and cut a bigger hole where it goes into the stock box for the dryer piping.

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:21 pm 
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i did something similar to my CAI... not i just gotta make the boy for the CAI more air tight and i am also going to mod my ram air to include a "funnel" by the gril to increase the amount of air taken in

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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:56 pm 
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richar43 wrote:
:ROTFL: , honestly I didn't even notice the date.... man I guess I did drag it up from the past.....thanks for the input, it is good to know, also one question, do you still use the factory air inlet, or do you block it off, just wanting to clarify if i need to leave it or just close it off. thanks again :D


I made mine with ABS drain elbows with a threaded end inside the airbox to close it off in wet conditions. I also left the stock scoop inlet as is. You can look at my pictures on imageshack to see how I put it together.

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I had:
'06 Black Renegade
Mopar Skids, Renegade Roof Lights, Mopar Crossbars
Custom made intake, Custom made rear shelf
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/monsieurglen/


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 Post subject: Re: $4 "cold" air intake modification
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:47 pm 
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I tried to run a custom filter on my KJ but it ran like doo doo!! It would bog out and hardly go!? I couldnt figure it out? I just added a drop in KN filter instead.

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