what's the best way to run wires to roof rack for lights?

ddonaho · **Posted:** Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:53 pm

I just finished a home built roof rack and want to install some lights up there.

I was wondering where/how ya'll are running your wires to the lights.

I removed my factory rails and made my own pads that attach to the roof so I can drill a hole through the pads and into the roof between the bolt holes. I'm worried that I'll hit several layers of unibody and or never make it through. Anybody done this?

Also I ahve factory Sirrius Radio with the little antenna pod above the third brake light. Anybody know what is under there? I thought it might be possible to notch the antenna cover and run wires through whatever hole exists for the antenna wire. Anybody taken thier Sirrius antenna apart?

Thanks
Doss

Gris · **Posted:** Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:59 pm

I ran mine up the a-pillar from the fuse area, then drilled a small hole in the roof under the roof liner where the stock rails (and now my basket) mount to the roof. I painted with some touch up paint to avoid rust, past the wires through, closed up the rest with silicon, and put on a plug so I can remove it kinda easily.

ddonaho · **Posted:** Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:53 pm

I have plan A
Thanks

W3CSX · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:17 pm

Here is a shot of my roof rack and lights.
Front

Back

I ran the wires for my lights inside then up the pillar. Using the roof rack as a screen and to protect them. I ran the wires out thru the foot. Here is a write up I made a while back on running the wires thru the rack.

The side of the end caps come off. To access this on the front open both doors. Pull the weather stripping back. Using a stiff flat tool (I used a small putty knife) slide between the seem in the end caps. Gently pry the side piece take care hear not to mar the plastic.

I had to drill both holes into the caps for access. To get into the cab. Just drill straight down thru the center of the plastic thru the outer medal. You will have to remove the trim on the end side first. After you run the wires seal both holes with RTV to keep water out.

Run the wires under the headliner trim and down behind the corner post trim. Up under the dash. This is where I mounted the relays. This way you only have to run two wires thru the firewall. 1) Battery / relay; 2) High beam to switch.

Something else to note. Do not use the screws holding the cargo rack on the jeep for the ground! I found out the hard way they are not sufficient. Yes you will get some contact thru them but bouncing out on a trail at night they will loose continuity and the lights will flash on and off as you hit the bumps. I had to re-run the ground inside and just bolted them to the corner post.

Click on this link to see photos of my cargo rack and light setup. http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e176/W3CSX/KCs/ Let me know if you have any questions.

Jason

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:57 pm

I ran mine similarly. Ran em from the fuse box up under the weather stripping. Just lifted the weather stripping around the door/window and tucked em under. Weather stripping itself holds em well. When I got to the top, just under the rail foot shown in the pic above, I popped a small hole in the weather stripping at the top of the door and ran the wires out that.
I put them in some of that black wire loom stuff, tucked it through the opening in the foot and split it to my lights. Basically alot easier then taking the foot apart and drilling a hole in the center. When done all you see is about 3" of wire conduit coming out the big hole in the center of the foot and entering the Jeep in between where the front and rear doors meet. The doors close fine and you really don't even notice it. Plus I have the Rennie tupperware so it was a pain to get to the foot.
I thought about taking the foot apart, drilling the center, etc. but figured it was too much work and the potential for damage was too high!

Ran only the power and ground up from the fuse box then split off to each light so I didn't have to worry about a ground. I used a screw right under the driver kick panel for the ground.

Skipperb · **Posted:** Thu Jan 25, 2007 12:57 pm

On your racks do you use 1 relay or two for the lites (4) I have 2x55 and 2x130 and it takes about 30A I have a 40 A relay and was wondering it
clik pix

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:29 pm

I ran one for each set front and back. I have em on 2 seperate switches. As long as the total for the lights u r powering is under the max for the relay one should be fine.

Skipperb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:20 pm

I ran the wires on one relay 40A and used the 30a fuse and it worked ok but, I can here the relay when I hit the switch now. I just need to cover the wires. thanks .

riptricket · **Posted:** Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:51 am

i don't have a relay for my front hella FF75's, this okay?

ddonaho · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:06 pm

Only if the switch will handle the draw the lights pull.

riptricket · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:30 pm

ddonaho you got pics of your setup?

ddonaho · **Posted:** Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:04 pm

"ddonaho you got pics of your setup?"

No lights yet, but I've wired several other vehicles.
Here's the rack but I found several things I want to change so a new one is on the way, then lights.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/ddonaho

what's the best way to run wires to roof rack for lights?

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