Thinking about making my transmission - belly skid.

Does anyone have the steel specifications used in commercial skids?

I am planning to use .25 plate steel. Will fold and box sides with one by one angle, also welding one piece of one by one angle in the center for strength.

Should I use A36 structural?
Tensile strength at 58-80 KSI Yield of at least 36 KSI Brinell hardness of 136

Or hardened 100.
At 100 KSI tensile Yield of 100 KSI Brinell of 220

It may or may not be stronger than commercial skids, and with professional powder coat, AR400 hardened steel it will not be about saving money. It is a project I am contemplating, any help appreciated, Don.

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Magna est Veritas, et praevalebit

It was unremarkably easy to fabricate a skid out of a piece of .25 A-36 plate steel and 1”x1” angle iron for my CRD. It protects the front drive shaft and boot as well.

I made a template out of scrap plywood; I took that and the steel to a friend who then transferred the pattern to the steel. It took him less than 30 minutes with a torch and mig welder to have skid ready to cool and install.

There is $46.97 invested in a skid 18.75x34.50 made out of .25 material.

I needed two part number 6505294AA rivets for the transmission cross member; I had 10mm grade eight bolts and washers.

The front holes under the engine are square and parallel.

The rear holes in the transmission cross member are not, that is the only obstacle I had.

I opted not to place a hole for the oil to drain. I will have to remove the plate for maintenance. Loosen the four bolts of the front skid and remove the two rear bolts on my skid.

It is a very substantial smooth reinforced plate for $15.00 more than a stock skid plate.

Next year we will do Black Bear into Telluride Colorado with peace of mind, but not careless.

The front skid has some scrapes and dents that are rusting already and I am amazed I had not damaged the transmission pan to date. In the future I will probably pull the front factory skid off and get it duplicated out of .25 material as well. Don

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Magna est Veritas, et praevalebit

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Magna est Veritas, et praevalebit

maybe next oil change you could take some more pics and measurements, also, whats it weigh?

I placed two additional pictures at the above link.

They show both sides and top and bottom.

The slots to mount in the front are ½ inch wide 1 7/8 inch long, 10 3/16 center to center.

The width is 18 7/8 in front and 18 13/16 in the rear

The passenger’s side leg is 35 inches.

Driver’s side leg is 34.5 to clear factory transfer case skid

The rear mounting holes are 10mm with a small amount of work with a chainsaw file.

Measurements are very close but not exact. The plywood template was made to fit and the measurements are secondary.

I used the front cross member as a desired width and cut a piece of plywood 18.75X35. I then went in 4 ¾ inches and 1 5/8 deep and placed a 7/16 hole. This is the drivers front skid plate mounting point. They secured it at that point and with the help of family and friends after 15-20 minutes we had a template bolted up.

It weighs around 50 pounds.

It has been stated that every vehicle is different and I would agree. But if you have access to plywood, saw, drill, torch and welder then this project is very satisfying.

I do not want to give the impression that I did this project myself. I would prefer to have ordered and installed the factory plate. But friends saw my need and this forum inspired me and it worked out well. Don

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Magna est Veritas, et praevalebit

thanks, as soon as I get a day off I'm gett'n-r-done!

I would also put some of that angle iron the lengh of the skid. I would lay the angle iron down on it to where it makes a triangle on top of the skid. I do not think that thing would hold up if u came down on a rock. Plus, idk if u know, but the tranny skid from mopar cost $50.

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Yes I agree it can be bent. I briefly considered using .3125 material and using channel to box the ends and reinforce the center of the plate. Others with much more time fabricating reasoned that it would be more than adequate using .25 material and angle on the edges. And as they were volunteering their knowledge, time and equipment I acquiesced. As long as I do not enter any UROC or SXOR events and use some common sense it should be adequate.

I was unsuccessful in optioning a factory skid so I pursued this project. I purchased a piece of leftover plate steel and the necessary hardware for about the same price as a factory skid plate, so in the end it worked out the same.

From others I have learned the factory plate is roughly 30 pounds and my version is in the 50 pound range, the additional 20 pounds will to some degree effect the vehicle but I reduced the weight of the muffler and that will mitigate it. Don

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Magna est Veritas, et praevalebit

As you all know, this thread is useless without pics

I've got an extremely low profile front skid being fabbed up at the moment. To give you an idea of what it looks like; for those of you with a diesel, you'll know what I mean when I talk about the front lower noise insulation cover, that fits between the car & the stock IFS bash plate.
If you've ever taken this item off for a closer look, you;ll realise that its ultimately the lowest profile shape you can put under the KJ.

What i did was trim off the useless bits of the mould to clean it up a bit, then screwed it onto 4 points of the crossmembers. The insulation cover even extends out to underneath the CV joints metal covers. So what i have done is incorporate this into my design. The result is an impressive sight. Although not completed, i know this

I'll get some before & after pics happening.

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Getin' ready for some CRD Jeep Action.....!!