| LOST JEEPS http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/ |
|
| Cold Weather Spray Painting http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=26889 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | Jeepman56 [ Sun Nov 25, 2007 11:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Cold Weather Spray Painting |
I bought and cut my electrical strut today and am going to paint them and the clamps. The high temperature in Green Bay this time of year is upper 30's low 40's. My question is if I can apply regular rustoleum (or any other brand) paint on them in my unheated garage at this temp? My basement doesn't even have a window so I can't do it down there. |
|
| Author: | Tokyojoe [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Heat the garage with portable heaters. When it is warm enough, turn them off, then paint the items. Open the garage door to let vapors escape, then turn the heaters back on. |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Tokyo Joe is 100% correct right. |
The lower temp will retard the drying process, and result in an undesirable finish and the fumes can be flamable. Be carefull in the basement I have seen gas hot water heaters cause fires with lacquer. Thats why is says on cans apply in well ventalated area and what the proper application temperatue should be. 
|
|
| Author: | Pote [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
as a general rule, even if painting a house, don't attempt painting until ambient temps are above 40 degrees. what the others said above is good advice when cold temps are not permitting. |
|
| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
hey if you can find a pressure cup that i can use i have the paint gun and everything else; also have a huge kerosend jet heater we can make a day out painting whatever |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote: hey if you can find a pressure cup that i can use i have the paint gun and everything else; also have a huge kerosend jet heater we can make a day out painting whatever
Check out these guys they used to head up R&D for Binks MFG. but years ago when Binks changed hands they closed R7D in Denver and they started their ouw company the 2 quart pressure cup is designed so you can even set it down like a large pot and still do your work. I always liked the 2 QT. cup because when painting a car you could go all they way around with out having to refill and risk a color variance. Check out: http://www.spraycat.com/cups.pdf Great company and all American made in Boulder Colorado 
|
|
| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i forgot to mention that i had found the cup that i wanted to buy. an it is the cat bandit. now im not sure if im going to go with the agitator or not but thats the cup im getting. An im not really worried about refilling as much as i am being able to move the gun however i want without it losing its feed |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote: i forgot to mention that i had found the cup that i wanted to buy. an it is the cat bandit. now im not sure if im going to go with the agitator or not but thats the cup im getting. An im not really worried about refilling as much as i am being able to move the gun however i want without it losing its feed
Moving the gun is predicated on the amount of hose you use from cup to gun the average is 6' , if your a big boy with a long reach customize your hose to the length you want keep the inside diameter big if your using HVLP. If you use a lot of metalics or paints that require a constant agitation the Agit-Cup is great. Otherwise don't spend the money, an old painters trick using a standard cup through a couple of 1/4" balls or marbles in the cup and every once in a while while spraying pick up the cup and shake around to keep the product stired 
|
|
| Author: | Landy [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you are going to rattle can paint, my fav is Krylon. IMHO, it has a 'hotter' solvent and it will force dry faster than other brands. Do it in several coats. Re-apply right at the point of tack/almost dry. Yes, if you could warm the garage, that would be best. Be aware of fume and solvent flash. Don't paint around the furnace or heat source. Warm. Turn heat off. Vent as necessary. Paint. Vent. Repeat. Something like that. Enjoy. |
|
| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
krylon is also a really brittle paint that chips easily. Still best be would be to screw the rattle can unless your going to have one special made and mixed for what you want. Spray paint isnt cheap for just no reason. Oh and rush i think im going to take the new trick from ya; im buying the bandit without the agitator. I had a brain laps realizing that a pearlecent paint doent need to be in a constant suspension because its a 3 stage paint anyway. Ba da da!!! Not that im painting the liberty pearl but i do plan on painting it. Oh that reminds me. Whe makes a paint that has the strength of a powder coat and flex of epoxy? Something really good for the lib. Ive been kind of leaning twords hentzen's because thats what the military uses and the stuff is tough but they really dont have a whole lot of color choices. An not a single decent candy |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 4:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote: krylon is also a really brittle paint that chips easily. Still best be would be to screw the rattle can unless your going to have one special made and mixed for what you want. Spray paint isnt cheap for just no reason. Oh and rush i think im going to take the new trick from ya; im buying the bandit without the agitator. I had a brain laps realizing that a pearlecent paint doent need to be in a constant suspension because its a 3 stage paint anyway. Ba da da!!! Not that im painting the liberty pearl but i do plan on painting it. Oh that reminds me. Whe makes a paint that has the strength of a powder coat and flex of epoxy? Something really good for the lib. Ive been kind of leaning twords hentzen's because thats what the military uses and the stuff is tough but they really dont have a whole lot of color choices. An not a single decent candy
Look into a urethane finish base coat clear coat , but first sand clean and prime with XIM it's a bonding primer extrordinaire. with the proper primer and a good flexable urethane finish you should get a rather long lifed paint job with rave reveiws.
Or if you want utalitarian go with Rustolium Industrial EPOXY I've seen in used on dump trucks and cement trucks and the stuff is Bullet proof not pretty but tuff as nails.  
|
|
| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
would you be able to mix the rustolium with another paint to get a better color? I was thinking i wanted to go with a paint scheme like whats on the liberator concept. |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote: would you be able to mix the rustolium with another paint to get a better color? I was thinking i wanted to go with a paint scheme like whats on the liberator concept.
Not sure check your area for an Industrial Rustoleum Dealer, if you can't find one locally I do know of one here in Denver. It will be pricy Epoxy Pqint is never cheap but for bullet proof paint what do you expect.? you get what you pay for, if you do use the Rustoleum use their primer too. The primer is the secret to a great paint job it's the foundation you build your finish on.
|
|
| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Fri Nov 30, 2007 2:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
do they make a clear coat for their paint? I use a lot of industrial paints and even the best of them look like crap because they dont have a nice smooth clear over them. |
|
| Author: | Rush345 [ Fri Nov 30, 2007 2:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote: do they make a clear coat for their paint? I use a lot of industrial paints and even the best of them look like crap because they dont have a nice smooth clear over them.
Not sure the last sample plate I saw from the company a peice of metal that they handed to you with a ball pien hammer and said go to town beating on it looked pretty shiny but I don't know about a clear coat. If you went with a different urethane finish after the fact I would either wait a month at least for full cure till a light scuffing and clear coat. but wait and see they may have one it's been a while so I don't remember the full product line but I am pretty sure it is tintable for custom colors. The memorie is the second thing to go ....... I can't remember the first 
|
|
| Author: | Jeepman56 [ Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
C co: Thanks for the offer! After talking to my dad I found out that he has a plug in heater for the garage so I will do it out there making sure I don't blow myself up, taking a course of action similar to what Landy proposed. For the record I am using duplicor red primer and the textured black spray paint on top of that. Has gritty bed liner feel to it. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ] |
| Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|