30$ Rack Bars Done

kj-dec · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:56 pm

I don't have woodcutting tools other than a jigsaw but that may be worth a try anyway; I may be able to borrow something to cut the 'V'. Thanks for the idea!

Rich

AltE · **Posted:** Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:20 am

I cut my (gas pipe) bars to sit on top, then notched them to lower them to my desired level (raised just enough to put my yakima carrier on). I had to drill the hole through the factory rail to bolt, but it came out great. I weigh 200 lbs and I can walk around on top no problem. Pics to come, I also added some extra rails to make a grid...

kj-dec · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:18 pm

Got bends! I was able to use Boiler's suggestion and my shop press to do the work. I cut a partial circle of about 6" radius out of one edge of a 2x6; the wood piece is about 2.5" tall in the center. Used a router table with a 45 degree angle bit (borrowed) and a coping saw to cut a roundish V-groove in the outside edge of the partial circle to cradle the tube. Then I used the router table to relieve the flats on the cut edge of the 2x6 and down into the cut where the part circle was removed.

Put the 2x6 cut side up in the press, with the pipe resting on/in the relieved edge, bend center mark right over the center of the deepest part of the opening from the removed part circle. Then used the part circle with a steel backplate pressed into the tube from above.

The tube dented a little as it forced into the opening in the 2x6 but it bent pretty nicely. Its tricky getting the bend to just the right angle, but I think it will do. I broke the part circle on the third bend (split in half) so I may need to make a couple to do all four bends or find a way to reinforce it, but at least its doable.

KJ in CO · **Joined:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 4:06 pm **Posts:** 346

Pics? please

I been workin alot of 15 hr days and its hard for me to read and make much sense of that. Not sayin that it dont make sense, just my brain power has diminished into virtually nothing.

kj-dec · **Posted:** Thu Jun 25, 2009 12:02 am

These were taken with an incomplete set of wood dies after the first one broke; the 2x6 edge the pipe is sitting on should be channeled along its length so the pipe is fully supported, with a smooth transition into the opening created by removal of the upper 'die'. The upper die is already channeled (so it slips 'around' the pipe).

Boiler · **Posted:** Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:48 am

Well I'm glad that worked...its sort of like what I was thinking.

Actually the V I was thinking is shown below. I was thinking you could just do a straight through cut. At the last place I worked however, we did a straight through cut, but then went back and milled out the radius for the tube to lay in. Your V seems to have achieved what that radius did.

Here is a sketch of what I'd have tried first. If the side angles are too long, then you could cut them both down equally.

If you want to do it really well, offset that parting line a distance equal to half of your diameter each way. You should end up with an opening the size and shape of your finished tube. Lastly, remember that your material will spring back at least a couple degrees, maybe quite a bit more. To be safe I'd set up a die to be capable of overbending steel by 5 degrees, and springier materials quite a bit more.

Generally it is a good idea to have the centerline radius of the bend be a few times the diameter of the tube. Thicker walls in proportion to the diameter can be bent sharper than thin walls. If I was bending 1" OD tube with 1/16" walls, I'd probably want a 3" radius (I'd start there anyway...). If it was 3/16" thick wall, you could probably manage 2 or 2-1/2"

The V you cut actually probably is what broke the part. If you cut it straight, but have the V sides like mine, I doubt it will break. Just make sure you support the wood with metal on both parts of the press.

kj-dec · **Posted:** Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:47 am

Thanks, that does look more reasonable. I've got more 2x6 sections and that V shape looks a lot easier to cut out and channel too. It looks like it will also minimize or eliminate the chance of the small dents I was getting, especially if the ends of each piece are relieved a little so the pipe never sees the hard corner as it is pressed down. A lot easier to cut with the jigsaw too.

The channel in the upper die on mine was round-bottomed courtesy of the router table, but that is still where it split; the pressure on the sides of the channel just stretched the upper die apart. I couldn't make it a perfect fit on the pipe with tools (and modest skill levels) at hand.

I have a couple of small C-clamps I was thinking of using on this one (you can see the dimple from a test fitting on the upper die) to hold it together long enough to finish the four bends. That won't be needed on your setup.

BTW thanks a lot! I can see a lot of use for this kind of thing in future work; my already wonderfully useful cheap press has just gained a new host of capabilities, and I now have a reason to invest in some additional wood-modifying tools!

KJ in CO · **Joined:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 4:06 pm **Posts:** 346

I think its kinda funny how big this thread has gotten over these $30 roof rack bars... Anyways, I have all the supplies and have already made my cuts, yet still havent made the bends. They are doing a remodel at one of my jobs and the place is littered with electricians. None of the have a 1" chicago bender!!! I called a couple contractors and none of them have one either.

My next ? is, will the 1" chicago bender work for the galvonized fence rail that I went with? I was just gonna break down and buy one if I absolutely had to. :roll:

I live in an apt and it makes it real hard for me to do anything that takes much craftsmanship

XC204 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:18 am

Kj its just a bender for 1" rigid conduit it has a die size that will fit the fence rail. You can use 1" rigid conduit for bars also.

kj-dec · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2009 8:14 pm

I looked at the conduit, EMT and rigid, available at Menards and Home Depot. None of them fit well in the end clamps; either slightly too large or noticeably too small to the point it would need a filler. The fence top pipe fits pretty close to exactly. I would have preferred the rigid but so it goes.

I had mine put together but decided to redo the pipes. I found out a neighbor just got one of those cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic benders, and it did a nice job putting curves in the leftover pieces of the original pipe. It didn't come with the exact size of die needed but close enough. Mine were not uniform enough; the pipes were visibly out of parallel with each-other due to variations in the angles, and also bent more than needed, raising the height too much.

Also I think I'm going to look for a better coating. The Duplicolor bedliner spray is flaking off the end clamps like crazy (they were sanded and carefully degreased before painting). The edges of the holes were the worst. The old pipes still looked ok but I test fitted a clamp to one, and the coating came right off. I may try paint-on rhino-liner this time.

I tried using normal allen-head bolts (10mm x 1.5) but they were rusting in less than 10 days so stainless regular head bolts will go in next time (couldn't find stainless allen-heads in town). I could not find stainless set screws in 1/2x20 either (available in 1/2x13 coarse thread only, per many retailers) so I may try to mail order them or locate stainless allen-head bolts and do the drill-through into the cross tubes.

Commercial crossbars would definitely have been easier but its been fun working on these. If I can get to a store with the brush-on paint this week, and the neighbor has the time to finish up the bends (he says he will) I should have the updated ones ready to go by next Sunday.

95BadBoy · **Posted:** Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:06 pm

XC204 wrote:

Kj its just a bender for 1" rigid conduit it has a die size that will fit the fence rail. You can use 1" rigid conduit for bars also.

This looks like a very good project! Thanks for the write up. I know that I have the exact clamps that you used on yours stored somewhere.

I may have to borrow your Idea to test.

95BadBoy · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:05 pm

XC204

Your idea works quite well.

With access a bit harder for the electric bender, I contacted a "sparky" that I knew worked on a lot of commercial projects. He had a heavy heavy duty manual bender for rigid conduit. It worked like a charm - done in about 5 minutes not including the BS'n time. :wink:

Carved up a bug deflector from 88 to ? GM pickup for a little better wind deflection.

Seems very solid.

XC204 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:47 pm

Boy that really compliments the roof basket and looks good. How did you do the bends ?

!!! Oops I guess I should read the Text!

XC204 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:02 pm

The "Chicago Bender" I used is a manual also it is just larger and has 3 dies and 2 wheels to roll it around. There are electric versions also but the manual rollarounds are common around here. Its really fun seeing an idea get used by so many. Thanks for all the complements.

95BadBoy · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:33 am

The bug deflecter had close to the same curve as the rolla basket, which made that an easy mod with very little messing around. Plus it was a freebee.

The bender that was used, looked like a EMT bender - just 3 times beafier. No dies or wheels to roll it around. I was doubtful of it's ability at first. Mr Sparky gave me a little education.

Your idea was just the ticket. Hope you don't mind - I shared this over on JF - and linked to your post here. :wink:

Should be of great help to those that don't want to spend a fortune on the over priced retail crossbars.

roc · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2009 5:25 pm

Looks like these Harbor Freight T's are no longer available from them. If anyone finds another source I'm looking for 4.

Thanks

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:57 pm

amazing what some of you are going through to bend pipes etc. when there are easier ways and just as strong
Oh well its fun to sit and watch :POPCORN:

TexasRock · **Posted:** Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:12 pm

Tom,

What did you use for yours? You said yours were straight, I have NO connections to a bender nor do I want to buy one just for this... so what did you use?

Keith

kskj · **Posted:** Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:19 pm

I got my pipe tee's at TEK supply they are a little bigger than the one's from harbor freight. So I did not need to bend pipe, they clear the top of the jeep by 1/2 inch.

ga_repoman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:05 pm

yep mine are straight across and clear the roof
also match up the bottom of the black widow roof rack better
if there was a bend it would rock on the peak
I also think they look a little more low profile if you go straight across
but mainly it was because I didnt have any way to bend the pipes
:JEEPIN:

30$ Rack Bars Done

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