Unibody Rock Sliders *TESTED*

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 5:04 pm

If you have a plasma, I think this would be so much easier.

OK, more pics.

Looking rear to front, after the original rocker is cut out, you are left with more to cut out, like I mentioned. More pics were needed so here are some
This needs to come out

That bulge runs the length of the rocker and actually widens as the jeep narrows in the front. This second bulge runs over the first.

View from the front looking back. This is the first bulge again, as you can see it has widened. You can also see the second bulge towards the middle off the rocker area.

These are the end caps, just need to weld them on, but am going to knock all the welding out at once instead of stop and start.

The extra bracing

The angle iron that I will be welding to the pinch and lower rail. There will be three pieces of it, all 9" long. Middle, end and end. These will be covered by the large flat bar boatsides.

I will have pictures of the whole behind those bulges here in a bit.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 6:09 pm

holes

Now I need to test fit the driver side, check door clearance and then I can start welding.

ken · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 6:29 pm

WoW...

Lots of layers...

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 7:53 pm

Finished test fitting the driver side and it fits as well as the passenger.

Welded one of the rail caps already too. Back out to the garage to finish welding and should be done tonight, hopefully.

Paint tomorrow.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 9:04 pm

PICS!?!

<MOAR!!!

Don't make me go watch stupid TV....Entertain me!! Dance!! :twisted:

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 9:44 pm

No new pics yet, but the driver side is partly welded in and hanging under its own power. I tell ya, I'm really not a fan of welding to the sheet metal body.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 9:57 pm

that 1/4" is acting like a giant heat sink eh?

That always seemed to be the worst part according to the XJ folks that have tackled this project. I recall reading about lots of small tack welds joined together and starting the welds on the thick and running into the sheet metal. (naturally)

Are you finding the kj metal burning away real easily or is it welding ok but just a tedious process?

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 10:17 pm

Well, when I welded the 1/8 caps to the 1/4 rail, it took like 3o second to weld the 5" length and 10 seconds to weld the 2" length and the welds were decent looking welds. The sheet metal does exactly like you described and just melts away. So I have to put a less penetrating bead on the seam and then crank up the welder and join the weaker seam with a stronger weld. It has been less than ideal and I am going to hit up my buddies about tips on the best way to do it. I am taking a break and may not get going again on it tonight. We'll see how I feel, but tomorrow is wide open so far and I can finish it up then I guess.

ken · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 10:21 pm

When I replaced my old cj2a floors I use a special flux coated rod and you have to gmaw (which is gas metal arc welding) it with a torch. For the application you're against, a tig machine would probably be best to keep the heat right there and small concentration allowing the two different thickness metals to pool together. See the wire feed machine doesn't know how to compensate the thicknesses. You must control that.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 10:24 pm

ken wrote:

See the wire feed machine doesn't know how to compensate the thicknesses. You must control that.

Any tips or advice on how to control it better?

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 11:05 pm

I just burn on the thicker metal and let it pool into the thinner, buts its hard to say because you want to go slower to get the penetration but too slow and you will just burn right through the sheet metal you just kind of have to play around with it until you find something that works.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 11:14 pm

jsc7002 wrote:

I just burn on the thicker metal and let it pool into the thinner, buts its hard to say because you want to go slower to get the penetration but too slow and you will just burn right through the sheet metal you just kind of have to play around with it until you find something that works.

Yeah, I could play with it and find a good medium but it will look like garbage until I find it.

And since the sheet metal welds are showing, I'd like it to look at least OK.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2009 11:51 pm

Best advice I have heard yet is to spot weld every 1". Then go back and do them over and over until they overlap slightly.

Once the spot welds are good, then I could go back and run a gun bead across all the spots and make it look OK.

This could take a while.

ken · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 1:42 am

My advice is the gas rod. I have some in my work truck. Do you want the type info? It is the only way unless you have a tig machine. Radnor LFBFC 1/16" thick, WT 1# , P/N 64001607 , HT L0586. Comes in a 2 1/2' long clear tube and it's white( which is the flux coating ) in color. The method used to weld is by braze ( gas torch ) Oxy/acetylene and above 1700 degrees. tight flame. Here is a pic of tube on the left side.

Inc · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 1:47 am

My buddy is a welder for a living. I hit him up for info so we'll see how it goes.

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 2:24 am

now that its too late: weld in a 1/8 formed piece of sheet to the unibody, and then weld the 1/4 tube to the 1/8 formed piece...

Preheat the tube with a torch? We put solid slugs in the oven for a while before welding them to tube sometimes.

Inc wrote:

My buddy is a welder for a living. I hit him up for info so we'll see how it goes.

Forget that...hit him up to weld it for you...

Inc · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 1:15 pm

I figured out the sheet metal issue. I run a small bead at the welder's lowest setting, and burn that into the sheet metal. Now the sheet metal has an edge of good thicker steel that I run a super hot, deep bead across and join to the 1/4" rail.

Now I need to find out how good I weld upside down for that pinch weld flat bar connection.

Inc · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 3:07 pm

Another update.

I need to find a gas supply place or my project is done for the weekend. Gas is almost empty.

I welded all the angle iron pieces on the bottom of the rail and to the unibody. I tacked both of the frame braces in place.

I am about to tack the flat bar in place and then weld it in, if I have enough gas. I am waiting for a second set of arms to show up to hold it in place to weld it on.

Inc · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2009 4:44 pm

I tacked the flat bar in place and then welded 1/3 of it together on the upper seam but gas ran out.

To be continued...

Burchie · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2009 1:24 am

ken wrote:

My advice is the gas rod.

Yeah.... use the gas rod. What ever that is.

Hey, can you make a front bumper? Terry will send you $$ for it? :lol:

Unibody Rock Sliders TESTED

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