Strut diameter for custom spacers

Guest · **Posted:** Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:20 am

I am going to take the plunge and do a clevis lift on the 05 Renegade. I have followed quite a few of the threads concerning this lift and know about using 3 1/8" conduit washers and no washers.

I am planning on going over to a steel supplier and try and locate some 3/8 round stock or a combo of steel washers that I can fab into a stout spacer and was wondering if anyone knows the diameter of the strut.

Yes, I know I can do it without any washers and again, the conduit washers but I would feel better (yes, I am parinoid like that) with a nice looking and stout solution.

Any assistance on the diameter of the strut would be appreciated.

A-Arm Protection
Also planning on fabing up some A-Arm skids. Last Saturday's run I smacked one of the lower A-Arms against a rock (use to driving my TJ and wasn't picking the right line for IFS). Anyway, think I will use 14 gague for a prototype since I have some sheets of it laying around. If they work out will probably switch to 12 gague unless the 14 works out ok. I have the usual equipment, MIG, grinder, drill press, etc. but no sheet metal break but I think a vise and some coaxing I can bend a fairly decent skid.

Thanks!

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:56 am

Oops! Forgot to login before posting. Original post by me, AZ_Overdrive.

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:07 am

Dug up the original strut in the garage. So, I decided to fab up some spacers for the clevis lift.

1. In a recent Clevis Lift thread someone was talking about how the 2" conduit nuts were slipping over the strut lip. Well, he is correct. I picked up some of those 2" fittings and on the stock strut, which only has 2 very small tabs to rest against the clevis, the fittings slide right over them. Should be able to see what I am talking about in this first pic.

2. Here is what I started with. A 3/8" thick piece of 6061 Alum.

3. Here is the diameter of the 2" conduit fitting (or whatever it's official name is). It's right around 2-1/4". The diameter of the factory strut is approx 2-1/8" +.

4. You know the old saying, have the right tools for the job. Well after 2 hours of using a grinder and drill press (prototype on the left) I took a trip to Ace Hardware for hole saws. The middle and right spacer took about 15 to 20 minutes each.

5. I used a 3" hole saw for the OD and 2-1/8" for the ID. However, I had to dremel out the ID for about 5 minutes to fit snug over the stock strut. Don't know if going to the next size ID saw would still keep it tight. Also had to notch in a groove to match the stock strut.

6. Final shot with 3 conduit fittings on stock strut with custom spacers next to it.

Next is to actuall install these bad boys on the Renegade!

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:32 am

Very cool. I'm surprised nobody tackled that fix sooner. I'll have to go dig out my hole saws and check the scrap bin and get busy.

Also, a perfect example of what this forum is for. Showing off what you have made for your Jeep to solve a problem.

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:58 am

very nice looking...would look nice with some spray on "anodizer". Yeah I know we are four wheelers and bling has place on a "true" rig but I am a red neck. We like shiny things (why do you think fishing lures are bright colors and shiny, or bass boats are covered in sparkles). Not to be off topic and this is a stupid question from a guy that works in machine shop (too embarrassed to ask the guys there) but what do the numbers on metals mean? Like the 6061 Aluminum. Is it the hardness or carbon content (would think that would only apply to steel)? Does it have something to do with being heat treated?

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:12 am

Thanks for the positive feedback!

Lower A-Arm armor is next!

As far as the numbers on the metal, I am sure there is a meaning but I don't know the technical breakdown. I can tell you that 6061 Alum is some strong stuff! It doesn't "cut like butter" like I though it would. Maybe someone else can give specifics on the Alum "grades."

BTW, I am no expert or super fab guy. I am a software engineer/project manager by day. I got into fab work with my TJ because I didn't want to pay $600 for a front bumper and $1100 for a rear bumper with spare/gas/jack mounts.

I would like to say that I respect and admire those that do this type of thing for a living. It is frustrating at times, labor intensive, and messy but I tell ya, it's satisfying when you "make something out of nothing." You guys are imaginative, inovative, and talented....

Here is a pic of my first "real" fab job. A front bumper for my TJ. And yes, it is based on the Bullet Proof front bumper.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:57 pm

Al 6061 - .25% Cu, .6% Si, .15% Mn, 1.0% Mg, .25% Cr, .25% Zn, .7% Fe, .15% Ti
Tensile strength 18,000 lb/in, Yield 8,000 lb/in

Old text book

kevh · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:02 pm

what are the 2 sizes of hole saw that you used?

thx

Guyute1210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:33 pm

kevh wrote:

what are the 2 sizes of hole saw that you used?

thx

Quote:

5. I used a 3" hole saw for the OD and 2-1/8" for the ID.

dog_party · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 4:49 pm

Beautiful work! I love the bumper you made too. Very inspiring to me too since I'm a Systems Analyst/Project Manager myself (don't ask how I went from an MA in Studio art to this...).

ManicMechanicJoe wrote:

Not to be off topic and this is a stupid question from a guy that works in machine shop (too embarrassed to ask the guys there) but what do the numbers on metals mean? Like the 6061 Aluminum. Is it the hardness or carbon content (would think that would only apply to steel)? Does it have something to do with being heat treated?

The four-digit designation for wrought aluminum (does not apply to cast aluminum alloys) is mainly focused on the first digit which describes the major alloying element or elements.

SeriesMajor--------Alloying Elements
1xxx------------------99% Aluminium
2xxx----------------------------Copper
3xxx-----------------------Manganese
4xxx----------------------------Silicon
5xxx-----------------------Magnesium
6xxx----------Magnesium and Silicon
7xxx-------------------------------Zinc
8xxx---------Other (including Lithium)

The third and fourth digits are simply a serial numbers (except when dealing with 1xxx series aluminum alloy) for the distinct alloys. And the second digit is only used to describe close relationships between metals that share the same 3-4 serial number.

Okay, that was way too much info for an off-topic question....I need a drink.

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:08 pm

WARNING on the 2-1/8" hole saw for the ID! I had to work the ID for about 5-10 minutes with a Dremel tool to get them to fit over the bottom of the strut. I don't know if the next size bigger hole saw would still fit "snug." Just an FYI.

BTW, the spacers fit beautifully over Rusty's struts so using my old factory ones worked out well. Rusty's don't have the little grove in them that the stock ones have but fit just as well.

Put em' on today and posted some final pics on the 4x4 forum.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

white04kj · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:06 am

AZ_Overdrive wrote:

Here is a pic of my first "real" fab job. A front bumper for my TJ. And yes, it is based on the Bullet Proof front bumper.

So, how's about thinking up something for the KJ? :twisted:

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:11 am

Well, the only other projects for the KJ right now are a custom CB ant mount and figuring out a place to put the Cobra 75. After that I have to start working on the rear bumper for my TJ (swingout, tire, cans, jack), it's been feeling negleced lately...

waddy whiteguts · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:24 am

That is such a perfect solution. You didn't happen to make a few dozen of those did you?

OBX KJ · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:04 pm

How much? When? Where?

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:07 am

I am now consumed with building a rear bumper for my TJ. Might make a few extra pair of spacers. It's pretty simple and cheap to do if you already have the proper hole saws. The metal was about $1 but the hole saws were around $16 each!

kevh · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:31 am

put me down for a set as well if you decide to make more

kkkustom · **Joined:** Fri Sep 16, 2005 8:33 am **Posts:** 160

I cut 2 pieces of flat stock... 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide and however long your clevis lift is going to be, and tack weld one on each side of the strut. not as cool as your aluminum dealies but works. took about 30 seconds to put them on too. and you dont have to take the clevis completly off, just loosen it and slide it down, then weld in the 2 tabs.

AZ_Overdrive · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:07 am

Cool! Got any pictures?

uvalax236 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:31 am

AZ, I would really be interested in buying a set of spacers off of you. PM me if you want to make a couple bucks.

Strut diameter for custom spacers

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