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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 12:17 am 
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I tried several different "angles" with the wire but it didn't help in heavy rain. Eventually I gave up and just went through the firewall.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:19 pm 
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I use one 15 amp fuse per 100W light. If you look at the photo of my wiring you will see that I have 4-15 amp blue blade fuses in the fuse block and one 10 amp red blade fuse for the relay operation and switch lights (5 amp blew so I upped it).

I based the 15 amp value for each lamp on the fact that the one fuse that runs both my fog lights (55W stock) was one 15 amp fuse for 110W(55Wx2) of lighting...same went for the wiring diagram that came with a pair of the 55w Hellas lights...They used one 15 amp fuse for 110W(55Wx2) of lighting.

Does that answer your questions? Let me know.

John
];')

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 11:10 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
where did you mount your CB Recently bought an 02 limited and there seems to be no place to mount electronics IE CB or even a TV screen up front.


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 11:43 am 
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I have not mounted my CB permanently. When I do plan to use my CB I just stick it between the center console and the passenger seat. This holds it tightly against any bumps and keeps it in reach. You can see in the photo where I run a ground wire to the metal seat frame. The ground point runs from a thumb screw on the side of the CB unit. The thumb screw was meant for a CB mount bracket but serves well as a quick connect ground point. The ground then runs from the metal CB chassis to the blue crimp grommet you see just to the left of the CB in the photo. I also have run the CB antenna wire under the console to a point under the passenger seat.

Image

The way I have it set up, I can install/uninstall the CB in less then 5 minutes.

John
];')

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 12:23 pm 
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That's exactly where I have my CB set up! Complete with the 6-speed shifter and all. I plan to attach it more permenently to the side of the console just in front of the seat on the passenger side, though - I found that leaving it squished between the seat and the console muffles the speaker. I have the same goal, making the CB easy to install/remove. I ran a line from the fusebox to a quick-disconnect DC connector, though, so I didn't need to use the cigarette lighter.

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4x4, 6spd, Leather, Sunroof, trak-loc, skids/rails, hitch+shackle, hooks, Alpine/iPod, Thule, GPS, CB, Frankenlifted w/ 31" MTRs
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 5:07 pm 
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Se7enLC wrote:
That's exactly where I have my CB set up!..... I found that leaving it squished between the seat and the console muffles the speaker.
I have a similar problem but what I did was put it so that the speaker output grille (which is on the bottom of my CB unit) was aligned with the notch on the right side of the console in the first cup holder. I get enough sound output as long as I don't have anything in that cup holder when I am using the CB.

John
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 Post subject: Longterm Use UPDATE
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:58 am 
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I also posted this in the lighting thread but thought it should also go here as this is the thread about my mods.

Since the original posting of this thread I have had several occasions to use these lights.

I also added 2x 55w lights to the rear of the Jeep on the winow hinges for backing down shelf roads at night. This was AFTER I discovered that I do have a need for them here in Colorado. The stock back-up lights suck! The rear backup lights are a must if you plan to drive passes in Colorado at night. I also frequently use the backup lights in the 'real' world as the tinted windows make the stock ones virtually useless.

My wife and I have used the lights several times as we like to go up to a mountain pass to have a picnic dinner and watch the sunset. The lights work very well on the way back down. I have pointed the Hellas on the lightbar to start casting their 'pencil' beam at the edge of my where my lowbeams (100 ft or so) sit.

The outer two lights just point slightly to the sides to cover the shoulder areas of the trail. They also shine some light directly to the sides on either side of the vehicle.

I also have replaced the foglight bulbs with modified Silverstar 9005 bulbs. They are much brighter that the stock foglight bulbs. I have had them for 2 years and they are still very bright. There are lots of threads with arguement against spending the extra money on the Silverstars saying they dim after only a few months. I have had these in my foglights for over two years and use them EVERY time I turn on the headlights. That said I have only about 15k miles on the Jeep.

Basically I use three lighting tiers for offroading
1) Foglights with modified Silverstar 9005's for the first 20-30 feet. (great for pointing out the depth potholes just before entering and last minute critter crossings)
2) Lowbeams for ranges out to about 75-100 feet. (better than using highbeams as they just throw diluted light at far distances)
3) Hellas 500's Pencilbeams with 100w H-3 bulbs for the distance lighting. (due to their lens configuration and lightbar placement they also throw light to either side of the vehicle directly next to each front door.

Each tier overlaps slightly giving me very good even-coverage from directly in front of the vehicle out to a distance of about 200 feet and falling off from there.

I have been very impressed at the lighting capabilities and that the 100w H-3 bulbs work very well in the Hellas 500's.

John
];')

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Last edited by Kugellager on Tue May 05, 2009 12:07 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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 Post subject: Rear Flood Lights
PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:55 am 
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Below are several photos of my rear lighting system and a closeup of how I mounted it to the rear glass hinge covers. Basically what I did was to use a piece of sheet metal cut to the shape of the inside of the hinge cover as a backing and strengthening plate for the mounting bolt for the light. I also drilled a hole through the hinge cover, through the sheet metal and through part of the hinge to secure the rear lights. The plastic covers just snap/pry off.

With regard to the wiring; I used two 30A relays in parallel and a feed spliced into the stock backup lights to power one of the relays when the Jeep is put in reverse.

The other relay is connected to a switch and turns them on when the switch is thrown.

With the relays in parallel with the power supply for the lights (but two different sources powering the two relays) the backup lights will light when either relay is activated by either the backup lights coming on or the switch being thrown. Basically, they way I did it , it behaves as two separate relay switched circuits. One is operated by a toggle and the other is operated when you put your Jeep in reverse - they just happen to turn on the same thing.

My splice was done on the wiring harness near the rear passenger side backup light. The wire bundle can be accessed behind the passenger side plastic panel in the cargo area. I just used a multi-meter to ID the correct wire that had power when the vehicle was in reverse and the backup light was the only one lit. This is where I spliced in the wire to power the relay. The drain from the relay is minimal and should not affect anything else.

Also it won't matter if you put the vehicle in reverse when the switch is thrown as it will just complete the power to the lights circuit in two places.

Image

Image

Image

EDIT: I no longer use the auto-on system/wiring for the back-up lights. I now use only the manual on/off switch on my dash panel to turn them on whenever needed.

John
];')

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Last edited by Kugellager on Tue May 05, 2009 12:12 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Auxiliary Electrical Circuits and Switch Locations
PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:23 am 
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This post details where I mounted switches for my auxiliary lighting, ARB lockers and onboad air system. This is followed by several photos of my electrical wiring octopus under the kick panel below the steering wheel for all of my auxiliary systems. All the switches are lighted when on.

The photo below is of the current state of panel switches for my auxiliary lighting. The two green switches are for the 4x100w Hella flood lights. The right green switch turns on the inner two lights and the left green switch turns the outer two lights. The switch on the far left turns on the 2x55w rear lights. I originally had this set up so that the rear lights could only be turned on when the Jeep was put in reverse. A tap was taken off of the backup lights to power the relay switch with the panel toggle mounted in between. I quickly realized that there would be instances I would want them on when not shifted into reverse and put them on a direct connection through the battey.

Image

The next photo shows the location and configuration of my onboard air and ARB locker switches. The switches are located on the left side of the center console. There is about 1-2 inches of space between the emergency brake lever and switches when the emergency brake is disengaged. The red switch turns on the air compressor and sends power to the switches for the ARB lockers. As a precaution, the switches for the locker solenoids only become active when the main red switch is on. This prevents any issues with the ARB locker switches when the emergency brake is engaged or disengaged. Please excuse the dirt, wheeling in Colorado is a dusty experience.

Image

Next we come to the monster I have growing under the dash. Detailed descriptions can be found in earlier posts in this thread. These are more to document the evolution of my auxiliary electrical wiring from my previous writings in this thread. The main photo of my auxiliary electrical work is labeled. The second photo is a closeup of the auxiliary circuit panels. I do actually have a wiring diagram of the ARB locker system in a safe place in case I forget how it is wired. Please feel free to ask me any questions on wiring. One of these days I will do some sort of CAD or computer drawing of the ARB locker eletrical system.

Image

Image

John
];')

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Last edited by Kugellager on Tue May 05, 2009 12:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: ARB Locker Installation Photos
PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:48 am 
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This post is more or less a continuation of the previous post and shows what I have fabricated for the ARB/onboard air system.

The first photograph is labeled and shows the basic layout of my onboard air and ARB locker system. The air hose is steel braid over a plastic hose that itself is imbeded with nylon braiding. It is basically heavy duty water supply hosing for refridgerator ice makers. Before anyone asks - No it doesn't seem to be affected much by the under hood temperatures. All the fittings used are brass with the exception of the the Slee air manifold which is milled from a block of aluminum.

Image

The next photo is a closeup of the airmanifold and attached devices/fittings.
Image

Next is a closeup of the recycled oxygen tank which I drilled and tapped for a standard 1/4NPT fitting. The oxygen tank is from a basic propane torch setup. The oxygen tank was used as it is rated to much higher pressures that the propane cylinders of the same size. The oxygen tank is rated roughly 400psi working pressure and 600 psi maximum pressure while the typical propane cylinder is only rated about 200/300. The capacity of the tank is approximately 1 liter/1 quart.

Image

The last image is a detail of the MF-1050 compressor. The compressor is attached with long zip ties to a sheetmetal tray I fabbed up. The tray is secured to the fender wall with a couple of angle brackets. There is a small air filter on the compressor intake and a dust shield on the filter made from the cap of a spray paint can. I used a valve cover breather like this and cut a hole in the top of a black spray can cap to slightly smaller than the chrome top on the small side of the filter. The chrome top of the filter just pops throught the hole in the spray can and stays put. If you looked at the assembled filter with cover from the top of the spray can cap, you would see the round chrome piece of the filter. As luck would have it, the inner round section of a spray can cap is almost identicle in size as the top chrome piece of the filter and provides the perfect guide to make the hole in the cap.

I found the breather filter in an auto parts store in the 'pimp your car with cheap crap' section most auto parts stores seem to have these days.

Image

John
];')

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Last edited by Kugellager on Wed May 13, 2009 5:43 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:15 am 
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holllllly crap !!! you got a lotta electrical stuff there!
looks awesome! i love the look of your lightbar!


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 Post subject: Breather Tube Extension & Relocation
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:35 am 
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This photo shows how I extended the breather tubes for my differentials and transfer case. There is no breather for the transmission because it is a six-speed manual.

I extended the tubes and ran them into this lawn mower filter which I made a base plate out of sheet metal. The base plate is attached to the filter by silicone sealent and has three plastic tubing nipples for the connection of the breather tubes. The filter it attached to a connector near firewall just to the right of the brake fluid resivoir.

Image

John
];')

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 Post subject: Gutter Screen Grill Inserts
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:52 am 
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I wanted something to reduce the number of bugs in the radiator and add a layer of rock/debris protection for the stuff behind the grill. I removed the grill and disassembled the two pieces. The black plastic insert just snaps into the body colored frontpiece. I bought a roll of gutter screening and cut a piece to size for each grill opening. You want the screen to be slightly larger than the opening in the frontpiece so that it overlaps and can be sandwhiched between the plastic insert and the frontpiece. I then pressed the screen over the stock plastic inserts to form the shape of the screens. I temporarily reassembled the grill with the screening to make sure it all went together and to finishing the forming of the screen to the plastic insert. I then disasembeled everything and spray painted the screen inserts with flat black paint. Once dry, I reassembeled everything and reattached the grill.

What you see in the photo is how my grill screens look after about two years on the Jeep. As you can see they hold up fairly well with only a little of the paint wearing off.

Image

John
];')

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:35 am 
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I did a similar mod. cut a piece of fiberglass window screen and placed it between the two pieces. after 2 years and 60k miles. I have a very clean radiator.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:01 pm 
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Well here is my version of phxtoad's rear shelf design.

This is the first mod and fabrication I did to my Jeep. After two years I must say that it is still holding strong and there is very little wear on the textured paint. I did have one of the electrical clamps pull out but that was due to my carelessness. Still the rods probably could be secured better. Some people have claimed my version is too tight of a fit at the back seat. I have found that the seat does in fact press against the part of the shelf nearest the back seats but this was by design in order to keep the shelf from vibrating and from easily coming unhooked from the links on the rear seats. It should fit like a glove at the rear seats. At some point in the future I do intend to make it attach so that it is safer in the event of a rollover. Note: There may be differences in measurements from KJ to KJ. This may account for issues some peole have had with the design.

Below is the description of what I did and how I modified phxtoad's design to fit my needs.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________

I used 3/4" AB plywood for the main shelf board and 3.5" 'select' pine for the shelf edge and bracing. In case you are not familiar with what 'select' pine is, it is a higher quality and stronger board than the stardard pine boards you commonly find at places such as Home Despot. Basically 'select' pine has no knots or splits and costs only slightly more then the basic pine. I probably could have made the rear 43" wide as in phxtoad's design but I thought I had clearance problems at first...now that it is installed I see that my fears were unfounded.

I used 1/2" metal rod for the shelf deck supports as well as the 12.5" rear hook brackets. I purchased 2-36" lengths of the 1/2" steel rod and cut each to 23" long for the shelf deck supports then used the remainder of each rod to construct the rear hook brackets. It was easy to bend the steel rod by heating them to red hot at the place where I made my bends using my blow torch. I then used my anvil and 5lb sledge hammer to bend the right-angle into the rod to make the hook. The reason for using two rod sections was due to not being able to find 48" long steel rod of the correct diameter. There was 1/2" threaded rod available but it is not nearly as strong as the 1/2" non-threaded steel rod. In the end it turned out for the better as I used the leftover rod for the rear hook brackets. Using the two sections up front allows me to push them out some once the shelf is installed thereby allowing for more support of the rods by the plastic body panels notches where they sit.

The wood was assembled with 1-1/2" and 9/16" lathe screws which were countersunk until flush for the shelf edge which is visible in the front. The 1/2" metal rods were attached with metal 1/2" electrical cable brackets as phxtoad used. The shelf edge was secured using 1-1/2" lathe screws as well as the angle brackets seen in the detail photos. I use corner fastners in the corner cut-out areas to help prevent splintering and to give it a cleaner more professional appearance.

Finishing of the rear shelf unit consisted of using wood filler at the seams in the visible areas and over the counter-sunk screw heads along front of the shelf edge. All wood surfaces were sanded and the ends of the rods were smoothed on a grinder. The entire assembled unit was given several coats of grey primer and then painted with 2 coats of granite texturing paint. Finally I gave it several coats of clear-coat to make it all nice and chip-proof. We'll see how chip-proof it really is after a few runs in the mountians.

Anyway...the photos are as follows. I have included dimensions on some of the images. Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Click the thumbnail to enlarge the images.

Top Shot
Image
Bottom Shot
Image
Construction Details
Image
Rear Bracket Detail
Image
Rear Shot Lower View
Image
Rear Door Opened
Image
Rear Shot Door Closed
Image

John
];')

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 Post subject: My Version of the Cold Air Intake
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:04 pm 
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Basically what I did was to trim away a little bit of the grill at the top of the headlight to make a space between the hood and the grill. I then removed the stock diverter that sits in front of the stock snorkel. Next I cut and 'persuaded' a piece of sheet metal to fit in the area you see in photo four. The sheet metal took a a lot of fine tweaking to get it to fit and allow the hood to close properly. Once the sheet metal fit I used contact cement to attach 1 1/2" insulating foam to the inside of the hood. The foam seals the space between the sheet metal plate and the hood so that it forms a channel from the cut out in the grill to the snorkel. There are also several small pieces of foam glued to the snorkel and the hood to fill out any rough areas. The foam is not glued between the snorkel and the sheet metal so that the snorkel can be easily removed. The sheetmetal plate is held on by the edges of the grill and the snorkel. It is not permanently attached to facilitate easy removal if needed.

In order to make the passenger side cutout even less noticeable, I painted the top edge of the grill over the driver side headlight black to match. You would never notice it if you didn't know it was there.

Note: I have calculated the surface area size of the opening between the grill and hood to be close in surface area to that of the stock snorkel opening and larger than that of the opening in the throttle body. This allows clean cool air to be ducted relatively smoothly with little restriction directly into the stock snorkel. The opening can be enlarged some depending on how much you are willing to take off of the grill. Enlarging the opening too much may weaken the grill.

At some point I intend to replace the tube between the air box and throttle body with one that is smooth walled in order to improve the airflow.

The cost of this little mod runs about $6 for the sheet metal and the foam.

I'll let you know if there is any difference in gas mileage after I put a few tanks of gas through it. Before the snorkel I got 14.5-15.5mpg. We'll see if there is any difference with the cool air intake mods.

John
];')

Click the thumbnails to make them large.

Can you see the intake?
Image

How about now?
Image

Here's a closeup.
Image

Here is what it looks like on the inside showing the sheetmetal plate as it is in place. Note the small piece of foam attached to the snorkel on the right side. This foam fills a gap between the snorkel and the stock foam when the hood is closed. There is also a 3/4" sliver of foam placed under the snorkel to fill the gap and make the transition from the plate smoother.
Image

Here is the inside of the hood showing the stock and added foam seals. You also probably want to tape the area indicated or you will draw in some warm air from under the hood. The way that the stock air diverter (which was removed) is located, it draws most of the air through the hole in the hood sheet metal which ducts to the area behind the air filter box. You can see where this ducting is at the arrow over to the left side of the photo.
Image

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Last edited by Kugellager on Tue May 05, 2009 12:29 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:55 pm 
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very different idea and i likie it!!!


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 Post subject: Cold Air Intake Preliminary Results
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:19 pm 
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All I have done is record the mileage. The mileage seems to be about the same after the first couple of tanks - maybe slightly higher - more mileage recording needed. I am still getting about 15 +/- mpg. The only noticeable difference has been what feels like a bit more power/acceleration when merging onto the highway in the lower 3 gears. I still plan at some point to replace the rubber flexible intake tubes with smooth metal pipes which would help with the intake flow to some extent. I will also get a higher flowing filter at some point.

John
];')

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:15 pm 
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Have you re-geared it John? or are you still on the 3.55s?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:06 pm 
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No I have kept them at 3.55.

John
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