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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:34 am 
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This is a real old mod (3+) years but I recently found it and thought I would consolidate it here with the rest of my mods.

NOTE: The Reese Front Hitch is no longer made. I got one of the last ones from Ted when he upgraded to a RL Bumper.
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Here are some photos of how I solved the license plate problem with the install of my Reese Front hitch.

First is the cut around the hitch face in the front bumper.
Image
The the cut in the license plate holder.
Image
Next is a close-up of the slits and bending I did to the plate itself. I formed the plate around the hitch
using a 2x4 so as not to trash the plate too much.
Image
Lastly, here is a shot of the finished mod. The plate and holder are in the original stock location.
Image

John
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 12:59 pm 
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Image
By xc204, shot with FinePix S5000 at 2009-05-18
Mine came out here by design so I didnt have to cut the lower area of the bumper . but I missed and still had to do some trimming of the lower.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 4:32 pm 
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I didn't have to cut or push anything out of the way in the lower section of the bumper. You can see it in my photos.

The only part I had to trim was behind the license plate holder - and the holder itself.

John
];')

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 Post subject: Air Tube Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:22 am 
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A few months back I replaced the rubber 'accordian' tube between the air cleaner box and the throttle body with 3.5" OD (3" ID)smooth-walled black PVC tubing and rubber connectors. The theory being that it will increase air flow and therefore power production.

My results are subjective but this modification has definitely made it feel like I have more power and better acceleration. There is no noticeable difference in gas mileage - The best thing for that is to make sure your AC compressor is not running.

Regardless, it certainly feels like there is more power.

Total cost for this mod runs $10-15 including paint to make everything look nice.

I will post photos at some point.

Disclaimer: Yeah I know you shouldn't use PVC due to its low melting point but I did some research on what those points are for what I used and it should be more than ok. Remember the throttle body is mounted to a plastic intake manifold and therefore does not get too hot due to heat conduction from the engine. Touch your throttle body after a good run and you will see that it is not that hot. I am using a rubber connector to connect the PVC to the throttle body further reducing the conduction of heat to the PVC. Also...the PVC is getting cool air running through it helping to keep temps down.

John
];')

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:50 pm 
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how do you power the compressor?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:45 pm 
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Sport wrote:
how do you power the compressor?
I use a 30 amp relay to turn the power on/off for the compressor. You can see the switch locations that control the relays in the post about the ARB installation and pics of the monster under my dash showing all of the relays controlling various things in my KJ.

John
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 1:08 pm 
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Kugellager wrote:
Sport wrote:
how do you power the compressor?
I use a 30 amp relay to turn the power on/off for the compressor. You can see the switch locations that control the relays in the post about the ARB installation and pics of the monster under my dash showing all of the relays controlling various things in my KJ.

John
];')


That compressor has alligator clips for quick connect to a power source. Did you modify them to connect to the battery at all times. I get the relay part.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 1:38 pm 
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It's permanently mounted under the hood so I snipped the clips and hard-wired it in.

John
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:36 am 
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Sweet, I have the same compressor and I am going to copy you. thanks man.

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 Post subject: Re: Air Tube Replacement
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:23 pm 
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Kugellager wrote:
A few months back I replaced the rubber 'accordian' tube between the air cleaner box and the throttle body with 3.5" OD (3" ID)smooth-walled black PVC tubing and rubber connectors. The theory being that it will increase air flow and therefore power production.

My results are subjective but this modification has definitely made it feel like I have more power and better acceleration. There is no noticeable difference in gas mileage - The best thing for that is to make sure your AC compressor is not running.

Regardless, it certainly feels like there is more power.

Total cost for this mod runs $10-15 including paint to make everything look nice.

I will post photos at some point.

Disclaimer: Yeah I know you shouldn't use PVC due to its low melting point but I did some research on what those points are for what I used and it should be more than ok. Remember the throttle body is mounted to a plastic intake manifold and therefore does not get too hot due to heat conduction from the engine. Touch your throttle body after a good run and you will see that it is not that hot. I am using a rubber connector to connect the PVC to the throttle body further reducing the conduction of heat to the PVC. Also...the PVC is getting cool air running through it helping to keep temps down.

John
];')


Any pics yet of finished product? Just curious, you do good work and was looking for ideas for my KK. Nice Jeep BTW.

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 Post subject: Re: Kugellager's KJ Mods and Fabrication
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Sorry this took so long not on here much. Note in the second image you can see the pseudo ram-air crude construction in front of the stock air scoop at front left. See the images several posts above to see images of how the grille was trimmed to make an opening for the 'ram air'.

The first photo description from the air box to the right A) I opened the opening of the stock air box lid to fit a flange to connect the 3" flex fitting. Flange is held in by silicone sealent. B) 45 deg angle elbow tube cut shorter to fit. C) Rubber flex fitting. D) 3" black PVC. E) smooth radius 3" elbow (only one flange end type) F) Adjustable rubber fitting to intake. Very simple and very cheap (<$15). I sanded and painted the PVC a flat black to make it match a bit better. Plus it hides any construction sins.

Like I mentioned earlier I have definitely noticed a seat of the pants increase in acceleration and possibly a very minor increase in gas mileage (see disclaimer regarding AC settings). With less obstruction to the air flow there is less engine sound attenuation and therefore It sounds "cooler". Also, if you stand near the opening while someone revs te engine there is a nice vacuum sound as the air flows throught the hood intake. ;)

The quick and dirty of why this might make more HP is that the smooth tubing creates less turbulent air flow and faster/higher air flow than the stock accordian tube due to an overall increase in air flow to the engine - I.E. the engine 'breathes' better.

NOTE: No! The engine compartment DOES NOT get warm enough to melt (or even soften) the PVC tubing.

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Kugellager's KJ Mods and Fabrication
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:46 pm 
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Upgraded wiper blade length from 19" stock to 21" blades.

Anco 31-21

UPDATE: It does make a big difference in the amount of clear window space. Definitely a keeper.

John
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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 9:18 am 
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Kugellager wrote:
Well here is my version of phxtoad's rear shelf design.

This is the first mod and fabrication I did to my Jeep.
John
];')



did you use the cut out corners and glue to the underside to level it out? (Im referring to the thread on jeep kj country you posted in.) the OP there looks to have not used anything to secure the back side (near seats) and it just lays on top of the black metal piece.

I like how you used J hooks....

like this?
Image

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:27 pm 
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j-rod wrote:
Kugellager wrote:
Well here is my version of phxtoad's rear shelf design.

This is the first mod and fabrication I did to my Jeep.
John
];')



did you use the cut out corners and glue to the underside to level it out? (Im referring to the thread on jeep kj country you posted in.) the OP there looks to have not used anything to secure the back side (near seats) and it just lays on top of the black metal piece.

I like how you used J hooks....

like this?
Image


About 1/2 way down page two of this thread there are a bunch of detail photos of my shelf...if you haven't already seen them. The J-hooks hook into the same metal loops that the back seats latch into (See photos). They just float there and are not secured as you can see in the photos. However, since the seats angle back they keep the seat-touching edge of the shelf secured in place. If you use my dimensions for the shelf it should be snug along the back seat and the edge of the back door/hatch. I flip my seats forward to install/remove the shelf.

John
];')

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 Post subject: Re: Kugellager's KJ Mods and Fabrication
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:55 am 
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oh yea I have seen the pics.....but your comments about it being snug are what I was after. didnt know if the J hooks secured it in place or not compared to the other version.

thanks again!

sweet KJ!

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2011 1:55 pm 
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Kugellager wrote:
I have finally finished my light bar/CB antenna mount and have installed the lights and wiring. <snip>

The rack is constructed out of 1" diameter 1/16" thick square steel tubing welded to brackets cut from 3/16" mild steel. Each bracket is attached to the front of the stock roof rack brackets by 2-2x1/4" bolts with nylock nuts. Each bolt goes completely through the composite roof rack bracket. You might be wondering on the strength of the composite. The composite material of the roof rack brackets is between 3/16" and 1/4" thick and quite strong. I can use the light bar as a hand hold that seem to be as sturdy as the stock roof rack. Regardless it is plenty strong to hold 4 Hella 500's and a 48" CB antenna on a spring mount.

<snip>
If anyone would like a template of the 3/16" steel mount brackets; PM me with your address and I will mail you a cardboard template with the holes marked.
<snip>
John
];')


Just a couple of general questions, as I'm thinking about "borrowing" this design for my KJ since my 'Boiler' roof rack is on indefinite hold.

Was there a reason behind the crossbar being as high as it is??
If I decide to go this route, I'll likely go for a lower profile.

Where did you get the steel??
I'm thinking Home Depot isn't gonna carry anything substantial enough to use in this application.

Did you do the welding yourself??
I'll have access to a good welder in about a month, so it's not a issue.
I'm kicking around the idea of bending the entire assembly from one piece of 3/16, then tacking the 1 inch bar underneath for support.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

BTW...... I have a thread here which shows my wiring for lights. I put everything under the same knee panel,
just went about it a little differently. feel free to take a look.

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 10:00 am 
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Sorry I took so long to reply. For some reason I did not get an e-mail about this post.

NewOldTimer wrote:
Just a couple of general questions, as I'm thinking about "borrowing" this design for my KJ since my 'Boiler' roof rack is on indefinite hold.


Yes - I wanted the lights to be up above the roof enough so that they were not blocked by the roof and waste all that light. This also gets it up a bit higher to allow a better (IMO) angle on directing the light toward the ground.Was there a reason behind the crossbar being as high as it is??
If I decide to go this route, I'll likely go for a lower profile.

All of the steel was from Home Depot. The original bracket part in the diagram was drawn on a steel flat. I think it was 3" wide.Where did you get the steel??
I'm thinking Home Depot isn't gonna carry anything substantial enough to use in this application.

No - I lived about 100 yards from a motorcycle custom shop and had them do any welding I needed. They did it for $35 if I recall.Did you do the welding yourself??
I'll have access to a good welder in about a month, so it's not a issue.
I'm kicking around the idea of bending the entire assembly from one piece of 3/16, then tacking the 1 inch bar underneath for support.

It would be cool to see someone else use my design. Pics too!
I'll let you know how it turns out.

BTW...... I have a thread here which shows my wiring for lights. I put everything under the same knee panel,
just went about it a little differently. feel free to take a look.

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 Post subject: Re: Kugellager's KJ Mods and Fabrication
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:34 pm 
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Changed my tires to Goodyear Wrangler Dura Tracs

The different reviews for these tires seems to indicate they have better overall traction than the remodeled Wrangler MT/Rs do. I have heard good things about these from other wheelers as well. Now that I have them I see them on 4x4s all over the place. They are also slightly less than the MT/R

So far they have done very well this winter in Colorado. Haven't wheeled them yet.

John
];')

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 Post subject: Re: Kugellager's KJ Mods and Fabrication
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 1:12 pm 
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These tires seem to be really holding up. Do very well in the Colorado winter snows. Wear after more than a year seems pretty good. Seems like everybody (wheelers) has them now.

John
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 Post subject: Final Mod
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 3:17 pm 
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Going to work about two weeks ago...-4F deg.....black Ice...Totaled!... :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

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http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/gallery ... 462556.jpg

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In Better days.
Image
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/gallery ... 24x768.JPG

John
];'(

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