Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby!

Cali KJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:59 pm

If i didn't flip them there would just be a little sliver of plastic left between my tow hooks and factory hole. Or just one BIG A-- hole, Wanted it to be as clean as possable and still leave the option open for something later in factory openings. Fog lights? Don't get me wrong the 2 1/2 drop hitch might be a little easier to install.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:45 pm

sure why not? you've got the factory tow hook hole there, could take a piece of 2x2 or that square tube that has all the holes in it and mount some driving lights or fogs or something in there

hitch bar - yeah i can see what you're saying, i guess i was thinking it would make it into the actual tow hook hole but either way i think it'll be an awesome addition to your jeep, you could even find some rubber weatherstripping sort of stuff to line the edge of the bumper around the hitch if ya wanted, just throwin ideas out there

I picked up a 3 1/4 drop and ordered some 1 1/4 inch 6x3.5 steel

From the measurements i've made I don't think i'm going to have to trim anything other than some grinding on the plate

i tend to overkill things.. really bad :lol:

Cali KJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:52 pm

Yeah I actually got the idea from Bennett over on KJ Country. By the time i drilled holes in the hitches i bought, Gris came up with his and posted here on LOST. Seems like the others that I've seen so far are ALL differant. :wink:

Can't wait to see yours!

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:46 pm

thats one thing i like about this fab mod, they all differ from everything from the hitch used, the type of recovery point to where and why they decided how theyed come out of the bumper

i'll be honest, its difficult for me right now not to expand the idea into a fabbed brush/bull guard but that could be something for a version 2 refab

Cali KJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:25 pm

Still NO D Rings

But here is the finished look

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:39 pm

hey that looks pretty good, kinda says "don't stop real fast infront of me I'll SKEWER YOU" :lol:

I got tired of pickin through bins for rings, and the tractor supply and steel shop was closed, i ended up ordering mine online from Northern Tool

and yep! it looks to me like you got 2 more spots for Aux lights now!

KJ kyle · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:59 pm

mine were at tractor supply for 6.99 ea. rated for 6500lb

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:19 pm

think i paid 12 bucks a piece for mine but theyre a lil different, and like 15k overkill :lol:

figured since i started with overkill i'd finish with overkill

BjBnet · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 9:25 pm

kingjeep · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 10:05 pm

i dont know ill stik with my hooks but that might be becouse a bunch of uss went out for the day and one guy had his shaks fabed up on his yj my budy in a jk was pulling him out and the welled broke

BjBnet · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 10:15 pm

had mine professionaly welded and secured with grade 9 bolts. :wink:

but I know what you mean....some guys will go do a half stupid job sometimes on the most important things
the front end will come out before the welds break.
Besides, I'll probably never use mine cause I don't go off road. It's just for looks...... and I'll be replacing those whenever I find something nicer and bigger. :lol:

jeepmedic46 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:00 pm

Finally got mine in.

kingjeep · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:32 pm

BjBnet wrote:

had mine professionaly welded and secured with grade 9 bolts. :wink:

but I know what you mean....some guys will go do a half stupid job sometimes on the most important things
the front end will come out before the welds break.
Besides, I'll probably never use mine cause I don't go off road. It's just for looks...... and I'll be replacing those whenever I find something nicer and bigger. :lol:

well i did paint mine to match the jeep i like the way they look and they work great i have used them just a pain in the stupid to put the strap on but i dont use them that much

wingnuts · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:58 pm

so I wonder how this work work out on the KKs

Prospect62 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2009 1:51 am

Can someone tell me why I can't just use a 2" receiver instead of a 1.25"? Seems like if I did that I'd eliminate the need for the extra piece of steel between the receiver and the frame...

The 2" ones are so much easier to find!

Can anybody clarify?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:21 am

well for one the headplates larger on a 2" and the headplate is what you have to create clerance for by trimming the tow hook hole in the fascia

additionally, a 2" without the steel between the shank and the chassis will not be far enough down to protrude through the fascia without cutting
the underside of the bumper above the tow hook hole

trying to measure and figure it in my head..

my 1.25 with 1.25 steel between it at the chassis has 0 clearance between the headplate and the bottom surface of the bumper above it

class II's or 1.25's have 2" head plates (.37" to shank on top side)

class III's or 2" have 2.5" head plates (.25" to shank on top side)

for flush with bottom of the bumper you'd only reduce the spacer steel by 0.12"

of course this is only applicable if you've got the same front fascia that I do

in other words - if you use the same drop that I did and have the same front fascia that I have and used 1.25 of spacer steel then you would have technically 1/10th of an inch more clearance at the top where I have 0 clearance, and have to trim 0.6" more at the bottom than i did

in other words, yes you can use a 2" , can you use a 2" or a 1.25" without the steel spacing without cutting a hole in your fascia? no

takes 1.25" spacing to get a class 2 down to the tow hook hole, takes 1/10th of an inch less to get a class 3 down there

but as you see from Cali KJ, if you're willing to make a cut, it doesn't matter where it comes out you can stick a Class V in there if you want!

Hope this helped!
again those measurements are only fully accurate if you've got the same fascia

Prospect62 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:00 pm

Thanks Jarhead. Excellent explanation.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2009 6:54 pm

youre welcome, i sat here scratching my head trying to figure it until i realized that I had class II's on the front i could measure, and had a class III in the cargo area that I could measure :lol:

I was actually surprised that the classIII only had a 2.5" headplate i was expecting 2.75-3"

Just measure it when you buy it, not like the tape measures are very far from the towing equipment isle

Prospect62 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2009 12:50 pm

I found ONE Class II draw bar with a 3 1/4" drop at UHAUL yesterday. I went to every other store I could think of and couldn't find another one. UHAUL is ordering me another one.

Now I have to try to find a place to get steel stock for spacers and a place to drill my holes (because I don't have a drill press).

Also, can someone clarify what type of replacement rivets I should get to reattach my front bumper?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:33 pm

there's several that scream and jump up and down and urge you to get the same, non-reuseable mopar style replacement rivets

i used 7/16ths push pin rivets similar to what holds the center of your fascia on, they're reuseable, they hold tighter than the smaller non-reuseable rivets, atleast in mine they got rid of the gapping between my flare and the fender

got them at lowes in the fastener section next to the bolts and stuff

Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby!

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