There's no pics from the install, but it was so easy, you really don't need any.
Parts...
2x 1.25" receiver arms with a 3.5-4" drop (The small ones for class 2 hitches), about $20 each full price
2x Big arse Clevis Rings. The ones shown are rated at 10k lb. each.
4x 5/8" bolts, 3.25-3.5" long
4x Locking nuts/nylex for the above mentioned bolts.
1" or 1.25" square steel stock, either will work, but 1" is more common i found. However much you need to match the shank length of the receiver arms you got. In my case about 12" total
The hitch bars I used were 2.5" drop. I would have used 4" if I could find them so they would be perfectly centered in the middle of the 2 smaller openings of the bumper.
I got the D-Rings (Clevis if you prefer) from an industrial parts store that was stuck with 50 of them. Some guy ordered them and never came back. They sold em to me for a good price. List was $60ish each.
Tools...
Recip saw or some other means of cutting the 1" square steel stock
Sockets/wrenches to match the nut and bolt you get.
5/8" Drill bit. Must go through 2" of steel, so get a good one.
1" drill bit or whatever size pin comes with your D-Rings of choice (for putting the D-Ring bolt through the hitch arm)
Drill press preffered for the bit, but a hand drill can work. I wouldn't want to though.
Welder optional but recomended for added strength.
How to...
1. Set the hitch arms on their sides so that the shaft is towards the tire and the "drop" is towards the middle. The hole where the hitch ball would normally go should be sideways instead of up/down.
2. Measure the length of the hitch arm shaft and cut 2 peices of the steel stock to the same length using the recip saw.
3. Lay the steel stock on top of the shaft (when mounted, the steel stock will be above the hitch arm) and weld it in place centered on the shaft. You can skip this step if you want, but I highly recomend welding for ease of drilling in later steps and strength. Repeat for the other hitch arm.
4. Using the 5/8" drill bit, widen the existing hole where the hitch pin would go (should be about center or a bit towards the back of the shaft)and continue the hole through the newly added steel stock. Repeat for the other hitch arm.
5. Measure 2.25" from the center of the first hole and mark it as the center of the 2nd hole you need to drill. ***NOTE*** The holes in my frame for the mopar towhooks were 2.25" apart, measure yours to make sure they are the same..
6. using the 5/8" drill bit again, drill completely through the shaft and steel stock macking your second hole. repeat for the other hitch arm.
At this point you should have 2 big peices of metal with holes in em. one with the drop going right and one going left, both with a peice a sqaure steel welded on top.
7. Now use the 1" bit (or whatever size you need for your D-ring pin) and bore out the hole where the hitch ball would go on both peices.
8. Remove your bumper, I leave that up to you to figure out, but it wasn't hard. 4 torx screws on the grill and a bunch of pushtabs is all that holds it in.
9. test a bolt in the stock towhook mounting holes. you may need to use the 5/8" bit to bore it out a bit.
10. bolt them on.
11. install the d-rings and reinstall the bumper
If/when I ever take my bumper off again, I will remove one so you can see what I mean by a lot of these steps.
Finally snapped some pics of the underside.
***Additional stuff since this post***
I welded a piece of 1" swaure stock between the 2 arms turning them into 1 solid unit. They've worked well since I put them on. I've pulled everything from snow-stuck civics to Fully loaded Suburbans out of stuck and a few KJs too. Any of the heavier vehicles tended to bend the bolts holding these in place towards whatever direction I was pulling. I finally replaced the grade 5 bolts I had handly when I made them with grade 8 bolts. I also welded that stock in between the 2 for even more strength. The last time I used them, to tug an ambulance off a snow pile during the huge storm we had in Feb, they didn't budge.
